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About ljk

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  • Birthday 03/24/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. It's complicated. Most bandsaw metal cutting blades are edge hardened thus retaining some flexibility to the rest of the blade. However they probably are the same overall chemistry. If your blade retains the edge than your good to go. You can harden by heating the edge cherry red (about 1500 F ) until a magnet won't stick, quickly quench in water. That edge is now very hard and can be sharpened to a wicked edge, however very brittle. I use sawzall metal cutting blades for my leather knife, being careful to sharpen the teeth slowly without heating the blade. Walter Sorrels has great youtube videos. .
  2. Hi Tilda I may be able to make my model c work but your HEIC downloads gives me chest pains. Perhaps if you could send your image in a jpeg I can help. My clicker is now unloaded and working well perhaps I could make a video of the machine in operation. I'm sure the engagement issue can be resolved. tx Lynn
  3. I tried a trial offer and got a little response. Here is my opinion, the shoe industry is dead in this country, the ones who are left are quality producers with specific dies and lasts. For example they want a specific die for a 11.5 ee not something close. The same for the last. The custom or bespoke shoe and boot industry on the other hand will buy close (like me) and modify. For example a sole die that's too large they will trim the leather. The dies are rusty and need to be sharpened. There is a market for one's and two's but for this to be successful the purchase of a large lot has to be very low since most will never sell. Cowboy last's have a better market because of more makers. But it doesn't appear you have any of those. If you take the time to catalog and cleanup, paint and sharpen you may have market. I suspect you my have also upper dies? Still interested! I have a box truck going to Fla. after covid, my last trip for stuff to move to Colo. Tx Lynn
  4. I used phase convertors on my Schabe D and Fipi 20 20 years ago Still working The conversion on the Fipi was more difficult because of the euro wiring.
  5. I have been down that road on a 155w. Follow the advice of the experts, make sure it is timed "right" Now drentch hook with oil and put in #69 thread. If it sews correctly than do the following. Remove hook "not carrier" those tiny jib screws have wings, check if there is any debris, inspect hook for any burrs make sure everything is smooth! Now remove tension spring and make sure thread path is clean and tension spring works properly. I use super glue on jib screws/screw driver to assemble. If that machine -doesn't work let me know I have another idea (crazy)
  6. I would tackle this machine. The 45k pictured was in similiar condition. I will posted refurbished if post is still up. These machines helped me make a living for 25years, starting with a $25 garage find. Start with spraying with BD Blaster on all moving surfaces, every few days. This can take weeks. Then remove any parts like bobbin winder and screws. Done worry about hook and bobbins are cheap. Soak small parts in The Works its a drain cleaner and is disposable. I than tum parts in a cheap HF tumbler with a little dishwasher soap and water. (doesn't foam up). Now once it's all cleaned and turning try to stitch and see if it works. If stitches are short or it won't sew, now is the time to research. Restorers are shimming gears and other parts. Facebook has "Singer 29k and other cobblers" which has good info. Don't remove main shaft, and I hope flywheel isn't wobbly ( this too can be fixed). Personally I'm not a fender polisher I clean oil and use my machines. I like those old stenciles.
  7. If I had to make a choice for just one machine it would be a singer 144w with reverse. (or adler equivelant) 25years ago my 206's would not sew certain parts on our mc chaps. We bought a 144w103 We called it T Rex pressure feet adjustment is easy, which makes different thickness material easy. Stitch length is more difficult (screw adustment} in top of the head. Parts are available. Another choice would be a singer 45k with the walking foot. These machines have a front stitch length lever making locking a stitch if you slide to zero or close. Thats how embroidery machines lock stitches between jumps. Both machines are available down to #20 needles. I'm currently modifing a $50 45k to sew shoes soles.
  8. www.ameriken.com has been my choice for many years.
  9. Hello I would go to the facebook china leather shoe patcher. This will usually work good out'of the box with #69 or #46 without mods. For a better machine which has been checked out and adjusted go to bantamsaddleandtack I think they are a moderator on site. There is enough info on that site that you don't have to fiddle and screw up.
  10. I'm 76 with good eyes and hands but take the easy way out. Those punches don't have a lot of leverage. They do work good and the dies are durable. I would recommend them. tx lynn
  11. I use this style for 2pt. steel rule dye. mount firmly and hit handle with rubber handle. For thicker steel I use the big boy a Roper Whitney long arm.
  12. I have been experimenting with Rit dye both in powder and liquid form. Did you know they have formulas for hundred of colors, just by mixing a few colors. Most of my edge dying is on Chrome for wallets and purses. I use veg for shoe soling and of course dye and burnish the edges. The dye is very cheap and very concentrated. The carrier whether water based glues or synthetic mixes well with the powder. I use Mod Pog exterior. Titebond 3 or Aleene's leather glues. They all have long shelf life vs. some of the other hyped glues. I usually dye edges, let dry and burnish with bee's wax or gum t. Hope to have comments on this? tx lynn
  13. I use a 5/8" welt foot for making windlass for car interiors and purse handles. Go to E-bay type in welt feet.
  14. I will give my experience. 50 years of leather and sewing. Less than 10 years of making shoe and boots (hobby) . My choice for insole is veg belly. I find this conforms to the feet very well. I sew the insole thru the upper and into the midsole. The midsole is than sewed to outsole in the traditional manner. I use this method so I can use the belly for the insole. I find cutting the insole to prep for welting compromises the leather. The replacement of the outsole can be done in the traditional way. See George Koleff you will have to go to the Tim Skyrme YouTube site to access his videos. thehcc.org is maybe a good choice for your needs. The listing on this forum for shoes and boots is well worth reading.
  15. Welcome to the battle. I have one machine (out of 5 that does it) In this case the needle assembly has a little play and I have adjusted the needle down a few .000. The needle plate arm (the point where the stitch is formed) has to be smooth.. There are forums on facebook and Youtube.
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