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About ljk

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  • Birthday 03/24/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. First of all I've owned a 206rb since 1975 maybe owned at least 10. The 206rb-5 is Chinese and ok but does not meet the quality of the Japanese versions. I had a 206rb 5 in my leather shop and it was reliable. I am willing to look and service this machine. I'm retired and located in rural Colorado. I do this for only a donation which I give to the local senior center. I will setup in one of my tables and adjust machine. I think you need to properly pre-tension in order to keep the thread properly seated in the tension disk. Your machine may need the maximum height may need to be adjusted. The alternating pressure feet may not be equal or the alternating feet are not set for maximum lifting. The feed dog may need adjustment. It may need to be timed, and the set for proper hook to needle distance. You would have to pay shipping both ways. tx Lynn
  2. I have limited need to hand stitch, however I'm a amateur shoemaker and I inseam my insoles and and saddle stitch my outsoles. I have noticed many Euro and Oriental leather workers use a grooved awl. If you google rasche awls you will find a awl that handstitchers might like. You insert the awl, leave in position while passing both thread thru the groove.
  3. You have been provided great info. There is more than one type of snap. DOT and Fastsnaps have a more domed head than chinese line 24 snaps. They will work on either style tool but may disrupt the top of the domed head.
  4. Cheap ideas. Shim ladder gears, 1mm brass shim stock cheap at NAPA. Adjust the needle distance to hook,seen just above the foot. The eccentric can be adjusted by moving the revolving carrier on shaft at top of machine. There is a Y Tube video on this.Trim a needle and adjust up and down see if this works. Keep looking. I have owned a bunch of 29s from a $25 29-4 to a $800 29k71 got them all to work. Review" ken's life" on needlebar.org. great video on 29k13.
  5. For awning, boatwork, auto trim and upholstery, you can;t beat a 20" Consew 206or equivalent. You will like the space.
  6. A sewing machine usually has more than one tensioner, the first is called a pretensioner. The purpose to create enough tension to keep main tensioner thread uniformally seated. On front mounted machine with a dial or a lever without reverse you can simply go to zero stitch length and make 4 or 5 stitches to lock stitich. This is the way embroidery machine does jump stitches and they also drag the top thread to the bottom. I use this method for leatherwork because appearance is important. My 44 and 31 old black Singer have a stitch length lever but no reverse, so you simply go to zero and make a few stitches. You can usually pull top thread through to the bottom and trim. On my 280l has a dial and reverse, for stitch quality I go to zero and lock the stitch This won't work on 111 and clone machines. Also Singer and Adler shoe patchers. It will work on CLSP.
  7. The 29k51 has a hole in front of the base just at the top of the stencil. Inside is a eccentric at the junction of the horizontal and vertical arm. You may be able to adjust the hook with this eccentric. If this doesn't work check y tube videos.
  8. Very good explanation from Mablung. The chemistry should allow for heat treating to a high hardness. The tempering process will dictate the final hardness. Producers play that game of hardness over 60rc vs.toughness 55-60rc. Go through the sharpening process as described by Mablung than use the green stuff for touch-up. The only way to check hardness is using RockwellC tester. I think some of the boutique steels are nothing but a hustle. What they sometimes do is use a bunch of letters and numbers to confuse the customer. Plain old cheap 1095 high carbon steel heat treated properly will make a great knife, albeit poor corrosion resistance.
  9. My choice 241. huge selection of chinese and japanese parts. How about a 1/2" welt foot for windlass on a vintage car. Or a 1/8" piping foot for seat welting. Most machines are non sewing factory having less hours. Horizontal axis hook less tendency to thread jam. ADLER Has drive belt $50 plus labor $50 to $100 per hour to install. Takes about a hour unless upper bushing is stuck $$$$. Some machines so worn sprockets need to be replaced $$$
  10. I'm near 80 and having trouble de-hairing with knife any suggestions? Also do you have a good source for tanning bark, especially that tans in light tan color.
  11. On 206 rb5 I have tried valve grinding compound. I have tried moving hook closer to needle and moving needle up and down helps some. I bought a new 206 rb5 20 years ago no problem. Next try Dremel buffing wheels worked great on clearing and buffing CLSP (chinese shoe patcher) hook, shuttle carrier. and shuttle. These parts are heat treated but not buffed. Adjusting the needle positioner might be also needed
  12. My 206rb is well worn and will sew 207. I've had two dealers in the past have asked me to repair new 206rb5 because of thread jams. Tight clearances. I have never replaced a hook on 206rb's for almost 50 years. Used may be good. My as new 280l will sew 138 never tried 207 on that machine.
  13. I wold buy a used consew 206 or Sieko or variant used in good working condition. I would also buy a chinese shoe patcher from Bantam Saddle and Tack. This machine has a higher lift and longer stitch than Singer or Adler. Used because the clearances are bigger allowing larger thread. The CLSP has a larger bobbin than most Singers. Do not buy a European machine parts are high and feet are propriety. You should be in business for less than $1000. I would not buy a machine with a belt drive, it can be expensive to replace. Belt drive can be a little stiff to turn. You may score a machine with a clutch motor cheaper and in rare occasions have very good control. Singer variants 144 w We called ours T Rex our go to machine for heavy thickness. Your final step would be a freearm 45K clones Many choices not many used.
  14. I use bellies for shoe sole construction. I case a belly for insoles. While tacking the insole on the last I hammer the areas that conform to the foot. The midsole uses a tougher stronger leather that will not stretch because the edge will be used as a welt. The insole and midsole using a inseam stitch. A ancient method. I sometimes use belly for outsoles, wear is not important as I put on sole savers. Near 80 my eyes and hand work good, but my feet not so good.
  15. Try $300 Machine has speed reduction pulley. The machine has large bobbin. Both servo;s and clutch have start issues. My wife has a clutch motor on her 206 with great control. I have a 280l with Enduro with needle position I love it. My shop machine a 206rb-It has a servo just ok. The speed reducer is valuable may help pay for that servo. Unless you are a nit picker a pc. of heavy fabric will worker just fine under that machine. I regret I didn't learn to backtack to lock stitches If you learn that"s what operators did for 100 years. My wife as a teenager worked in a garment factory and you would not get hired if you could not backtack. Be aware that non-reverse machines for sale are factory machines and have been sold off either because they are fully depreciated are because of auction of a closed plant so sad.
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