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About ljk

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  • Birthday 03/24/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. Four things I would look at. Take up spring. Should release before take-up descends to bottom. Timing Adjust needle down a touch 1/32" , if it gets worse go up. Timing I assume lower shaft is keyed, I would see if hook is to far from the needle Thread release. Make sure thread is not releasing as feet go to second layer
  2. ameriken online probably has your punches.
  3. In my beginning years as a upholster we used cotton thread the size was 16-4 (about tex 105) and 24-3(about size 69) things were rapidly changing to nylon thread, staple guns vs spitting tacks. Most machines where 155 and 16-188.
  4. My go to for small parts and tools is "THE WORKS" a common and in-expensive bathroom cleaner. It's disposable obviously. For larger projects and perhaps more gentle is electrolysis, many post on this on YouTube and other places. Probably very friendly environmentally as the water and the other chemicals are simple like salts or Borax.
  5. Been there done that on a very nice 111w155 which I bought for $12 at the Mt Hope auction had bad belt. I would try one thing first. Change to 20 or 21 needle. Move hook as close as you can to needle. Make sure needle bar timing to hook is correct. If this fails go to Uwe Grosse he will come up on Google. Review his Consew/111w155 video. 50yrs ago I had to put a 111 on the bus 300miles. After that I made sure I learned how to adjust the machine. These machines properly setup will have 1/2" lift a long stitch and will do whatever you want, until you graduate to a big bobbin with reverse. Better pictures of machine might help so I might be able to see overall condition.
  6. Well look at that ! This is not full grain "whatever that is" one A plated finished split with a plastic or acrylic coating two Top grain plated and finished. three The above cut on the belly, the wrinkles will always show up. four Final assembly may have ironed the boot and lifted the finish. five If expensive the price was based on marketing not quality.
  7. I have one, quality Japanese machine. 3.5 stitch to inch. As good as Japanese Consew 206. Simple horizontal axis. big bobbin machine with pinon drive. But no clutch and if you get a thread jam you can spin the hook out of time. You will need to know how to retime. Hooks are cheap. You can sew with 207 thread top and bottom. Florida climate is bad for sewing machines as far as appearance, but doesn't affect performance. Machine I don't think has been made for years.
  8. I did notice on the second video that as the stitching came off the double seam the stitch got shorter. This happens using a drop feed or walking foot machine. A compound feed machine usually won't do that. Many of those machines also have adjustment to alter the lifting height. For example we sew embroidery twill to backing and need triple feed to keep materials aligned. By simply adjusting the lift we can sew heavy leather. If you buy singer 111 or Oriental feet you will have a huge selection. If you buy Adler or Pfaff feet for those machine the prices are much higher, I am only speaking for the USA. You can buy knurled,smooth and teeth feet for the 111 style. I don't know your market but if you see something just ask for a opinion from our members.
  9. I would buy a singer 45k or GA5-1 free arm clone. Huge bobbin, user friendly, simple oscillater, can take 69 thread through 415. Needles available 18-25 including leather point. I would glue a 2mm pc. of teflon to the foot, this will reduce surface tension as the the leather slides under the foot, can also reduce need for the tension on the foot. Flat plates were available on some 45k's. I have modified my 45k to sew out soles on the shoes I make or repair (hobby). A shoe patcher would also help. I sew uppers with a shoe patch and also put on teflon on it. good luck
  10. Hello I know w155 and also embroidery machines. You have to be really good at tension adjustment. Lock stitch machine as a rule have bobbin tension at 25 % of top tension. That general rule would apply to your machine as long as the top and bottom thread size are the same. You need to do a coupla things. One needs to know how thread release works with top tension When the hand or. foot release is working it will drop tension in order to pull the material away after stitching. This is adjustable you need to understand how it works. While sewing the top tension needs to be consistent at all thickness. My 144w305 has no tension release. This machine has very consistent tension. May be they had a reason to do that? Now bottom tension. The hook has a small thin tension tab, it wears and gets dirty. Inspect and check carefully. Finally the big issue on old dirty vertical axis machines. Dust, dirt; oil get under the hook obstructing the thread path. Remove the gib on top of the hook, pull the hook and clean and polish. Don't lose those screws, I have a old tool box full of broken hooks and gib screws with 3 different pitches and are not interchangeable. good luck The experts will arrive shortly.
  11. For years I used thermo ply to make large patterns like vest and chaps. For smaller stuff I used Plexiglas or made my own dies. A scroll saw is very handy
  12. This is my 45k before restoration, A $50 purchase. After electrolysis, BP Blaster, acetone mixed with auto trans. fluid I did get it working. I polished all parts of hook area and now works well with 277. My needle was too far from the hook and I bent the needle bar closer. I bent in the area of the needle attachment. My other choice was the shuttle carrier which I could have punched or drilled out moved and threaded. My experience with singer parts is the metal is more tough (ductile) than hard and brittle I speaking of steel not iron casting. I took a chance and it worked. I use dd2x point needle more of a rounded chisel point which cuts well and makes for a nice look on the bobbin side.
  13. I don't know. There was a period about 10 minutes when my you tube and leatherworker went crazy. Then it cleared up.
  14. Being a upholsterer, leatherworker, and cordwainer I recommend the 1541s or the consew206rb4, both are horizontal axis compound feed machines with safety clutches and have large M bobbins. The juki shows as belt drive if used be sure it's not a factory machine they run those things to death. Being made in Japan a plus. The Consew has a pinion gear drive and I have never had to adjust, just add grease. I don't know the country of mfg. of the 206rb4. The main problem with used machines are bad adjustments on feed dog, inner and outer foot balance on feet. When you got that seatcushion under your foot and run out of bobbin, just reach under replace without moving the cushion. On vertical axis machines you have to get to top loading bobbin and than have to hold thread to prevent the terrible thread jam. Remember if it's use'd there is a reason. Good dealers are an exception. Good Luck
  15. Back in the 80's I went to a pioneer -craft show. There was a lady with a white rabbit in here lap, she was pulling the fur to make spinning yarn. When I went on the bike circuit selling my leather products, patches and doing sewing I always put my machines up front. If I was doing a zipper on a jacket or a boot that would really draw a crowd. If they were waiting, their partner would than look around and maybe buy something like a deerskin purse. Now I admit that only 20% of the crowd where potential customers for handmade USA products. You need good shows with honest promoters. That;s the hard part. I believe the good stuff will stand out. Put a shoe patcher out front learn to treadle you will get attention.
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