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About ljk

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  • Birthday 03/24/1944

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  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. ljk

    Ideal Clicker Machine Model C

    If it came from humid states and has been sitting it is probably all clogged up. My machine had been sitting outside in Florida for three years and was a mess. Download the manual listed on this post. Lube the bearing on the flywheel hub and back off the big nut a few clicks. Oil clutch, just squirt the brake band. I think the brake may be a little snug from grim are debris. Follow instructions for lubing the motor. The flywheel should spin very easily. There is also some posts on facebook clicker die swap and sell.
  2. ljk

    Adler 30-1 help

    I have had 29-4's and latter versions and a Adler 30-1. The Adler is very close to the 29-4 with the addition of a eccentric adjustment in the base for hook timing. The sweet spot is 69 or 92 thread. If the shuttle, hook and carrier have a lot of wear it may take 138. You can buy 138 from Lu Thread and Bantam Saddle and Tack in small spools at good prices. The only shoe patcher that will sew long stitches 1/4" is Claes ($5m) and Chinese shoe patcher ($120) Both have almost 1/2 lift. A 1mm pc. of Teflon glued to the foot will work wonders to stitching quality. Good Luck Lynn
  3. Hi I have had one issue like this on the 206. The hook assembly would sometimes jam even on 92. Suggest try 69 thread. If it works that's your problem. Suggest you ask one of our dealer about new assembly. I have had some luck running valve grinding compound to polish assembly. Good luck Lynn
  4. Regarding rattle. These machines of this type singer 3115, 44s and others have conical type bushings (bearings) on rotating and oscillating mechanisms. By loosing the nut you can tighten the bushing this will reduce clearance. Also oscillating parts like feed dog shaft can be also adjusted. Also in many cases the stitch length can be lengthened by grinding the stitch length slot. (make sure you center feed dog first) Did you know you can lock starting and ending stitches by simply moving lever to 0 or close to 0. My commercial embroidery machines do this between trims and color changes. I program at 6 stitches. As to tension my embroidery machines run bobbin tension at about 25% of top tension. These are really lock stitch machines with fancy electrons xyz axis. Looks like you are on your way to a good machine. tx Lynn
  5. I just finished a 44-20 very similar a crank oscillating shuttle machine. My problem was shuttle carrier driver and side play in the shaft. This made stitching irregular. The cure was bushing the shaft to eliminate free play. The driver had a set screw and was also pinned and hook had to be re timed. The pin was out slightly to the shaft. Time by rotating needle to bottom and then raising 1/10" should just be meeting hook. Hook should then meet needle sightly above eye. Depending on material slight adjustment my be required. Harry Rogers on YouTube has a good article on 331k. Describes problems with substandard hooks and shuttles. I've seen these machines rattle like crazy and still make a good stitch. (there is a fix for that) good luck Lynn
  6. ljk

    Consew 206rb-2 help

    I'll try to help. I have had these machines continually since 1974 and have done my own service. Do the following remove throat plate (needle plate 2 screws). With the needle bar at dead bottom, move up .17" take a picture of hook under throat plate this will give me a idea of timing. Also need picture of threading. tx Lynn
  7. ljk

    Ideal Clicker Machine Model C

    I regret not helping you more, but my model c is still in front of the box truck which I moved to Colorado. I have had the clicker for so many years that I operate by muscle memory. I can tell you that double clicking is a result of heat built up between clutch surface and flywheel. Properly adjusted I was able to do about 750 clicks before double clicking. This was on small steel rule dies. A fan on the flywheel helped on warm days. The range on the adjust wheel on the top was only about 4" from stuck to not cutting. Your machine looked like mine which had set outside in Fl. for 3 years. You may want to invest in a Helmold steel rule bender and some 2 or 3 point .937 die stock. The proper way to release a stuck die is backing up the small flywheel at the top. I however use a 4' pipe wrench which came with machine. There is a video on the Red Wing site a 1953 film. good luck lynn
  8. ljk


    I would check proper needle position, may be to far down. Loosen gib screws on hook and see if rotation changes. Check belt for obstruction. Remove throat plate to see if hook rotates normally. If non of these help pull belt off bottom sprocket and rotate upper and lower shafts to find blockage. Next next next If you are not experienced go no farther and re post for help if you have found blockage. tx Lynn
  9. ljk

    need help identifying this machine...

    I think you have a singer 111w155 There are variants. This version has a high lift 1/2" and a 1/4" stitch. Things you need to check, condition of belt (look under cover plate in front of the fly wheel) No hinge pins so you can't tip it up. The hook should be sharp with a good point. A belt is around $20 A generic hook around $20 A thread tension assembly about $15. A new real wood top with a laminate surface around $125 Profession labor around $250 The machine has no reverse, most factory operators know how to back tack (lift the foot with the knee slightly, slide the material back a few stitches and sewn forward, do this simultaneously while sewing, lifting material and pushing material back and forth) A skill I never acquired. I consider this machine as good as any of his competition and with good parts availability. Uwe Grosse has great videos on YouTube
  10. ljk

    Heat Transfer Vinyl to leather

    We use .5mil vinyl to heaseal the back of our patches, this seals the threads and adds body to the patch. I also do this on bonding leather together for wallets and purses. This can be tricky because the heat transfer through the leather can be variable based on thickness. Base line for patches is 350 degrees for 30 seconds For leather it can be 60 seconds or more. There are variables. However using top grain chrome leather in most cases will work. ( Euro leather can be a problem because it has some veg properties because of regulations) One neat property is the ability to mold while hot. The best method is having thinner leather close to the heats source. The leather is protected on each side while bonding with parchment paper. tx Lynn
  11. Your close, make sure the hook guard is not pushing the needle away from hook. You can bend the guard. Make sure the feed dog needle hole is polished, Mitchell # 52 cord can be your machines best friend. Is the belt tight, worn sprockets can affect timing (has to be really sloppy to be a issue) Try this formula for hook timing radius (hook to bobbin case center) x2 x .10x .90 = height of needle bar from bottom position. The hook should be passing the needle scarf at that point. Then adjust needle bar so hook is in the scarf slightly above the needle. Make sure bobbin case allows proper thread path with no restriction. Your at the point you are very close.
  12. ljk

    Tannery wanted

    Coey tanning in Wartrace Tenn. is a good source.
  13. ljk

    Reliable Barracuda

    I've had a version of that machine for 30 years starting with a Thompson mini walker (stolen) today I have a Camper's Tent Maker (with auto lube). Most of my use has been sewing backing to twill for making embroidered patch. Great for keeping two layers even. I also use it in my tiny shop in the house for wallets and tote bags. My studio is 100 feet away at 8000 feet (cold) where I have my big machines. I've put a round pc. of 1/2" lead inside the rim on the wheel to slow starting (more momentum) Also replaced drive sprocket on motor with 10 tooth (from 11). I think it will work on your application singerman 12 has a excellent presentation on his Ebay site (industrial sewing machines portable walking foot) If your sewing veg Sailrite has (delicate feet).
  14. On your kneelift picture I usually grind the top portion to a gradual cirve
  15. ljk


    Hello I have a offer of $500 to $1000. Would need to be boxed and shipped to Colorado. I would pay freight. tx Lynn