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About ljk

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  • Birthday 03/24/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United States
  • Interests
    50 years of sewing, and leather working, embroidery machine
    owner, operator, mechanic and digitizer. Clicker die maker
    and operator. Sewing machine mechanic, volunteer sewing
    machine service on domestic machines at Colorado location.
    I own 40 machines

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    sheaths, bags, shoes, boots
  • Interested in learning about
    Old sewing machines and related.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

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  1. I did notice on the second video that as the stitching came off the double seam the stitch got shorter. This happens using a drop feed or walking foot machine. A compound feed machine usually won't do that. Many of those machines also have adjustment to alter the lifting height. For example we sew embroidery twill to backing and need triple feed to keep materials aligned. By simply adjusting the lift we can sew heavy leather. If you buy singer 111 or Oriental feet you will have a huge selection. If you buy Adler or Pfaff feet for those machine the prices are much higher, I am only speaking for the USA. You can buy knurled,smooth and teeth feet for the 111 style. I don't know your market but if you see something just ask for a opinion from our members.
  2. I would buy a singer 45k or GA5-1 free arm clone. Huge bobbin, user friendly, simple oscillater, can take 69 thread through 415. Needles available 18-25 including leather point. I would glue a 2mm pc. of teflon to the foot, this will reduce surface tension as the the leather slides under the foot, can also reduce need for the tension on the foot. Flat plates were available on some 45k's. I have modified my 45k to sew out soles on the shoes I make or repair (hobby). A shoe patcher would also help. I sew uppers with a shoe patch and also put on teflon on it. good luck
  3. Hello I know w155 and also embroidery machines. You have to be really good at tension adjustment. Lock stitch machine as a rule have bobbin tension at 25 % of top tension. That general rule would apply to your machine as long as the top and bottom thread size are the same. You need to do a coupla things. One needs to know how thread release works with top tension When the hand or. foot release is working it will drop tension in order to pull the material away after stitching. This is adjustable you need to understand how it works. While sewing the top tension needs to be consistent at all thickness. My 144w305 has no tension release. This machine has very consistent tension. May be they had a reason to do that? Now bottom tension. The hook has a small thin tension tab, it wears and gets dirty. Inspect and check carefully. Finally the big issue on old dirty vertical axis machines. Dust, dirt; oil get under the hook obstructing the thread path. Remove the gib on top of the hook, pull the hook and clean and polish. Don't lose those screws, I have a old tool box full of broken hooks and gib screws with 3 different pitches and are not interchangeable. good luck The experts will arrive shortly.
  4. For years I used thermo ply to make large patterns like vest and chaps. For smaller stuff I used Plexiglas or made my own dies. A scroll saw is very handy
  5. This is my 45k before restoration, A $50 purchase. After electrolysis, BP Blaster, acetone mixed with auto trans. fluid I did get it working. I polished all parts of hook area and now works well with 277. My needle was too far from the hook and I bent the needle bar closer. I bent in the area of the needle attachment. My other choice was the shuttle carrier which I could have punched or drilled out moved and threaded. My experience with singer parts is the metal is more tough (ductile) than hard and brittle I speaking of steel not iron casting. I took a chance and it worked. I use dd2x point needle more of a rounded chisel point which cuts well and makes for a nice look on the bobbin side.
  6. I don't know. There was a period about 10 minutes when my you tube and leatherworker went crazy. Then it cleared up.
  7. Being a upholsterer, leatherworker, and cordwainer I recommend the 1541s or the consew206rb4, both are horizontal axis compound feed machines with safety clutches and have large M bobbins. The juki shows as belt drive if used be sure it's not a factory machine they run those things to death. Being made in Japan a plus. The Consew has a pinion gear drive and I have never had to adjust, just add grease. I don't know the country of mfg. of the 206rb4. The main problem with used machines are bad adjustments on feed dog, inner and outer foot balance on feet. When you got that seatcushion under your foot and run out of bobbin, just reach under replace without moving the cushion. On vertical axis machines you have to get to top loading bobbin and than have to hold thread to prevent the terrible thread jam. Remember if it's use'd there is a reason. Good dealers are an exception. Good Luck
  8. Back in the 80's I went to a pioneer -craft show. There was a lady with a white rabbit in here lap, she was pulling the fur to make spinning yarn. When I went on the bike circuit selling my leather products, patches and doing sewing I always put my machines up front. If I was doing a zipper on a jacket or a boot that would really draw a crowd. If they were waiting, their partner would than look around and maybe buy something like a deerskin purse. Now I admit that only 20% of the crowd where potential customers for handmade USA products. You need good shows with honest promoters. That;s the hard part. I believe the good stuff will stand out. Put a shoe patcher out front learn to treadle you will get attention.
  9. Time to comment. I've had a 206 since 1976. Here's my experience with bobbins. The spring you talk about tends to provide some side load. If you have a needle break it can hit the case and bend it'. I've no back lash problems, I do upholstery and leather, speed is not my friend. For high speed on my commercial embroidery machines I use magnetic bobbins exclusively. Watch how tight you wind your bobbin, This can warp the sides. It will still insert but will turn uneven. Bobbin cases can warp. There cheap now, not 45 years ago. Pay attention to your bobbin, blow out lint especially the tension spring. Make sure your 206 is timed correctly and the bobbin case is not touching the hook. If it is you may not hear it and that needle can simply tap away doing doing damage. FIL-TEC magnetic bobbins are available on-line.
  10. In the 90s clickers were cheap and I bought three. A Schwabe model D, a Fipi 20 and a USMC model C. Two where 220 3 phase. The conversion to single phase I did myself the Schwabe was easy go to the library, talk to friends. straightforward Now comes the Fipi 20, this machine made in Europe had a different wiring specs. and color. With sweat and chest pains I got it done. All three still in service today. Service availability is miserable you have to learn to do everything, thanks for the internet. Good luck.
  11. You could try cording/welt. Sailrite or Rockford Supply.
  12. One of my favorite machines. Problems! bottom feed only, you need a Teflon foot, or a wheel and matching feed dog. The machine has conical bushings (bearings) witch can be adjusted for clearance. No reverse which can be fixed by backtacking. An alternate choice would be a servo motor with needle position, or simply lock with moving stitch length to near zero. If you need a hook buy from a reputable dealer like Toledo. Good Luck
  13. The ga5-5 which is a clone of the 45k25 shows 3 1/2 stitches per inch and the feed dog and throat plate are interchangeable so it might work on your machine, A search on Isaacs may help.
  14. All of the early black oscillating crank drive Singer work basically the same. From the 31-15, 44 series to the 45k. They have conical bushings (bearings) these can be adjusted for wear. That is the first you do take up the slack. Next check how much clearance you have fore and aft of the feed dog. If you have have clearance you can do the following. Grind the slot further down on the stitch length selector about a 1/4", go slow since you don't want the feed dog to interfere with throat plate at maximum length. Also of note you can lock stitches on these machines by simply going to zero and make a few stitches. (embroidery machines work that way) Also note if you put a servo with needle position you can back tack with ease by setting servo at the point of thread release. Also if you glue a pc. of 2mm Teflon to your foot it will reduce surface tension. Have done this and it works !
  15. I would recommend a compound feed (triple feed) with a clutch. Doing auto upholstery you will run into work that will need piping (welting). The center moving foot on the compound feed machine will cinch (press down) on the piping. This is specially important when sewing the piping (welt) to the upper and lower material. Most of these machines have a adjustment for the the lifting height of the feet, reducing lifting make sewing thin materials easier. If you buy a machine without a clutch make sure you make you mark hook and shaft so you can reset if you have a thread jam. A slightly used machine might be a better choice (non factory) because the hook and the race have smoothed with each other. A servo with needle position is a good choice. You can adjust needle position to reduce. thread jams (adjust in slightly descending position). The thread release should be adjusted at the top of the lift this reduces tension problems when lifting foot going around corners or heavy seams. Avoid factory machines they sell for a reason/ Good Luck
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