gavingear

This machine is now sold, thanks all! -Gavin

Some additional information: Can sew items up to about 1/2" thick Shipping origin- 98011 Weight- total: 120lb + packing materials Detailed weight: Head: 70lb, Case and accessories, 50lb

Bothell (Seattle area) Washington. Sorry- thought that was in my signature.

Here's a very rare machine! This is a full-industrial portable machine ideally suited for leather work. What makes this machine rare is the custom portable case that makes this machine portable, as well as the Dayton 52:1 gearmotor. This gearmotor slows the machine down and multiplies the torque this motor produces (52x!! torque). Furthermore- this motor features a one-way sprague clutch meaning that moving the handwheel is effortless (not the case with belt-driven reducers). This machine has been gone over, lubed, tuned, new belt, and has almost no signs of use. Works perfectly and makes a perfect stitch. An ideal machine that does not take up much space. Asking $900. + shipping/packing fee (negotiable, but non-trivial for this heavy machine). If you are picking up locally, I have a workstand that I can throw in, and I'll show you how to setup and use the machine. Features: - Integrated thread stand and guide - Walking foot, needle feed - Variable stitch length - Reverse - Power switch and foot pedal Included: - Machine and case - Instruction manual (shows age) and service/parts manual (good condition) - Extra brand new belt - Zipper/welting foot set, and standard foot set Pictures: Please see my ebay account, 100% positive feedback for reference: http://myworld.ebay.com/gavingear I thought I would list here before putting this on ebay.

I'll second the suggestion for the servo motor. I just upgraded my Pfaff 545 (similar machine) with a servo motor, see the following post to see a video of this machine in action: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7174 I would also install a speed reducer if you want to go really slow. Servo motors are great for starting out gently and limiting top speed, but if you run the motor really slow, you'll find it does not have enough torque to plow through really heavy leather. I have a 3:1 speed reducer on my Pfaff 545, and that multiplies the sewing torque by 3x. That means I can run the machine really slow, and still have enough torque to sew through 4 or 5 layers of 6-7oz veg tan leather. Check out the video from the post above and see what you think. The Consew motor is great. I'm thinking about relocating the max speed knob to the front of the machine next to the on/off switch. Then you can tailor your top speed to match the type of project you're doign (very slow for holsters, faster for leather upholstery or bobbin winding)

I just used 6-7oz for and IWB constructed of 6-7oz, that worked well for me.

Hello all, I just completed a Consew servo motor install on my Pfaff 545 walking foot industrial sewing machine, so I thought I'd take a few minutes to explain how this machine works including a description of the speed reducer, and the servo motor. Pfaff 545 sewing machine overview: - Made in Germany (top quality) - Walking foot with needle feed (feet are clamped on material and needle pierced when feed takes place) - High lift feet (about 9/16") - Large capacity top loader bobbin - Reverse and stitch length adjustment - All metal lower shaft/gear drive (newer pfaff 1245 has rubber belt that can require replacement) A couple key additions on this machine: - Speed reducer (about 3:1) - 3x the effective motor torque, and 1/3 the top speed - Electronic servo motor (Consew CSM 550) - Spins only when you are sewing, silent otherwise, brake, adjustable top speed, precise speed control and start/stop Some photos: Overall machine: Walking feet: Speed reducer: Servo motor: Overview and operation video:

Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post)

For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops...

I've wondered the same thing about red wine...

Actually, I just did that in photoshop. I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful (I'll be back home some time this weekend).

To answer a couple of questions: 1. Weight of leather: I used 6-7oz, seems like a good thickness 2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself 3. This style of IWB seems to work well. With widely spaced loops it's stable for a reliable draw, and the flap that covers the back of the slide is an added level of comfort Thanks for the compliments! While not a totally unique design (some have commented on similar products) I'm happy with the result.

A couple days back I posted a thread asking for a critique of a design I've been working on for an "Inside the waistband" holster for my Kel-Tec PF-9: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957 Well, I've modified the design based on the feedback, and have completed my 1st IWB holster, here are some pics: Front: Back: Back: Stitching closeup: Packing, side view: Packing, rear view: Updated pattern: And here are all of the photos, you can get the full size pattern here: http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/ So far, it seems to pack real nice, and I can reach around the grip for a smooth draw. Thanks everyone!

OK, I modified the design for better draw, and keeping some comfort Here's the updated design, I'm the process of building a holster from this design: More updates when the holster is done...

Thanks all for the suggestions! The primary reason for full grip coverage is to have a layer of leather between the grip and my skin for comfort purposes. I did think about the implications on draw/grip. I'll have to decide whether I want more comfort, or better accessibility and speedy draw action...

Here's a design I'm working on for an inside-waistband holster for my Keltec PF-9, looking for functional feedback! Thanks!

Cool- I'm working on a Kel-Tec PF-9 IWB design right now... Tell me about the reinforcement strap across the opening- does it seem to be required?

If you look at the ACF-500 A at: http://www.artisansew.com/other.html It's a servo motor with needle positioner. It seems that this would be very handy for stopping in the down position (as when you want to pivot the work to change sewing direction), and to stop with the needle up so that the work can be removed, and thread snipped. Anyone using one of these? How well does it work? What kind of speed ranges do you get, and does the motor have sufficient torque at lower speeds? Thanks, Gavin

Anyone have a link to a servo motor setup that you can buy online? Reccomendations?

I have one of these machines (very cool looking in a mid-century home!), but I would not reccommend sewing much leather with it. I have not tried on this machine, but did try vinyl quite a bit on the successor to this machine (another slanted needle machine, the Singer Touch and Sew). Great machines, but the motor is not powerful enough for the starting requirements with leather, the presser foot only lifts about 1/4", and the bobbin is small-ish for industrial thread. These machines do have reverse however. I'd reccomend an industrial machine with: 1. Clutch motor and industrial table, A slower motor (1750 RPM rather than 3450), and/or speed reducer is also an option 2. OK: Needle feed, Best: Walking foot (also has needle feed) Some machines I would reccomend: (most are used only, prices reflect machines that would come with table, etc) 1. Singer 111wXXX walking foot machines (no reverse...) $300-500 2. Consew 206 series (walking foot, vertical bobbin, reverse) $700-1200 3. Pfaff 145 (walking foot, reverse) $600-900 4. Pfaff 545 or 1245 (walking foot, reverse, large bobbin, high lift) $900-1500 5. Juki LU563 (walking foot, reverse, large bobbin, high lift) $700-1200 Check out craigslist, I recently picked up a fully featured Pfaff 545 with speed reducer for $500. I've also picked up a pfaff 145 (mis-categorized on ebay) for a bit over $100 ($250 shipped). I've even picked up a needle-feed machine (singer) off craigslist for free! Have fun, Gavin

I have a speed reducer on my Pfaff 545, and it's great, but it does make the machine harder to turn over by hand in some cases. It is very nice for "stitch by stitch" work... I do holsters, so I need very precise slow stitching. My reducer is the pulley type.

How heavy of thread can you run in your 545? Mine sews great with 207 polyester, but I'm thinking to try 277. What do you think?

A local shop that I use is "Sewing Machine Service" in Renton, WA. You could call them: (425) 255-8673. They can send you parts I'm sure. Good luck, that's a nice machine! I have a Pfaff 545 high-lift that's working GREAT for me.

I just completed this holster, and am very happy with it: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6071 The issue is, this time I used Fiebing's dark brown dye, then sprayed it with "Expert's Choice" all weather all pupose protector (for shoes, boots, etc). I noticed that if I wipe the holster down with a wet cloth, the dye bleeds onto the rag (especially the edges as you may think). What should I do to seal or set the dye so that it won't bleed? The inside of the holster needs to be sealed as well. Should I try another coat of the sealer? I don't want dye to get onto clothing/belts when wearing this holster in the rain. BTW: The black holster I did (Fiebing's as well) does not seem to have this issue... Thanks!

Recently, I posted regarding the 1st holster that I designed and constructed for my S&W 629 44 Magnum: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5911 That was a fun project, but holster making is a learning process, and a fun one at that. So I took the lessons learned, and applied that towards my 2nd holster design and construction project, similar, but this time for my 6" Ruger GP-100 357 magnum. Specifically, here's a few things I did differently: 1. Uncovered rear sight 2. Scrapped the reinforcement strap at the opening 3. Changed angle of gun (less forward cant), made belt slots longer and wider 4. Formed the holster to fit the user's side curvature during the wet forming process 5. Added grooves (with stitch grooving tool) around perimeter where stitches do not exist as detail item 6. Went with open muzzle design, widened certain locations for proper allowances Overall, I'm very pleased with the design and construction this time. It wears very nice! Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/...789277522/show/ Overall: Overall 2: Muzzle Closeup: GP-100 outside holster: Back Side: Wearing (front): Wearing (back):