mulepackin

I personally think Chicago screws should only be used in applications where you plan on removing or exchanging the secured item frequently. Not for an item that "might" need to be replaced.

Thanks for the link. I've been looking to build or buy a better, faster duplicator. I only built and modified a Copy Carver (www.copycarver.com). Heavier router, and different mounting system. It still takes about 30 min per side, per bar to do them. Thats after bandsaw roughout cutting, then a fair amount of hand work to finish them. I used to use spar varnish for the trees, but it was cost prohibitive. Cross8, I pretty much do these on demand. This was a big batch only because thats how things turned out over the winter, and also playing some catchup.

These trees are purposely built to allow rasping to fit a particular horse or mule. I countersink the rivets about a 1/4 in. but after the rivet setting process the are even a bit deeper. Those holes are then filled with filler and the entire surface coated with at least three coats of boiled linseed oil. They can be rasped down to fit, then additional oil applied if so desired. I recommend this, but don't honestly think many folks do it. I worked closely with the saddlers and outfitters I sell to locally to fine tune them for optimal fit and performance. I pack and use these myself, but feel the guys who make their living using them can give me a much better and honest critique. Not many of them hold back!

Yep, I get my bronze hoops from Herb and Nadine. I carve the bars out of cottonwood on a rinky dink duplicator I built. Finding good, consistent cottonwood can be difficult. I get $180 for modified, $170 for standard and $150 for steel. I may likely stop producing steel arch trees. I sell about 10 bronze to one steel and can't find reliable manf. for steel anyway. I actually have to put more work into the steel arches to get them the way I want them. The arches are cold riveted to the bars with countersunk steel rivets. I try to leave a very smooth surface top and bottom, and the tree is ready to have the rigging attached.

I'm mostly a reader here, don't have much to contribute, so just generally try to soak up all I can. My only claim to "fame" is building decker trees. Thought I would post some pics of my spring batch. I tried to build a few extra to have on hand but these were all spoken for before I got them finished. I built ten, 2 standard steel arch, four standard bronze arch, and four modified bronze arch. The first pic is the batch awaiting final assembly and finish, and then some of the finished trees.

Here are a few links for rope halters with a fiador knot. They can be scaled to fit any horse large or small: http://www.gaitedhorses.net/Articles/RopeHalter/RopeHalter.html http://www.naturalhorsesupply.com/tiehalter.shtml

I offered this up over in the how to do it section, but since this is a thread on pack saddles I'll offer it here as well. I have a set of specifications from the USFS for the decker pack saddle. Glad to send them on to anyone who would like it. Just to add another bit to the knot issue. I tie a quick release cinch knot on the latigo at the rigging ring. If we are in a wreck, one jerk and the latigo is loose. We've never had on come loose inadvertanly. Obviously, packing is like many things. We all have our own way, based on ours or someone elses experiences. They all work and get the job done. It's one of the facets of packing I enjoy. I do have a friend who I pack with regularly that does just about everything different from the rest of us, from the way he rigs his sling ropes, to the way he puts up (or I should say doesn't put up) his saddles, to the (excessive) length of his lead ropes. I swear it's just to be contrary. Thats when it's a problem, as the rest of us pretty much are all on the same page. I've gotten to where I won't help him out if his mules step over a lead or get tangled in them. I am close to cutting them shorter. I would and just resplice them, but he has to be different there to. Uses the kernmantle type rope instead of the 3 twist poly that I use, no splices, AARGH.

Try The Leather Factory (Tandy) www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/home.aspx?navlocation=top

I have a copy of the US Forest Service Specs for decker pack saddles. I'm sure they can be modified for a sawbuck. PM me if you are interested.

I kind of feared it was something along those lines. That is truly a shame. They would have been great folks to know.

I recently (finally) got a set of the Stohlman Saddlery Encylclopedia. It's obvious after just browsing through them, that they intended to publish additional volumes beyond 1,2 and 3. They were to cover repair work, pack saddles, additional tack, etc. Does anyone know the story behind why they didn't get done?

Been reading a lot on shaping the groundseat as this is one of the elements of saddle construction that worries me. It obviously has to be right and fit the rider. Many makers state they are shaping to fit the particular customer. Having spent many more hours sitting a saddle than I ever will making any I can relate to a good fit here. My question is how is this achieved? Not the build up and skiving, etc. but more specifically fitting. I doubt anyone is making castings or impressions of the rear in question. Is it a trial and error thing, having the customer sit on the unfinished seat and giving feedback? Perhaps bringing in previously used saddles and going from there?

Been looking at used tools for some time on Ebay, etc. Particularly Osborne stuff. Wondering if anyone can tell me why so many of these tools look rusted and pitted. I've looked at a great many draw knife strap cutters in particular and nearly all of them look like they were left out in the rain. I can't believe everyone of them was neglected. I'm sure these tools aren't chromed, blued or otherwise treated to prevent corrosion, but man they look tough.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/...amp;x=0&y=0 These folks list a lot of Stohlman books on Ebay:http://stores.ebay.com/Leather-and-Leather-Craft-Supplies

I have found this Google book, and can view the images. I can down load, but when I go to open the PDF file, I get a "file broken cannot be repaired" message. If any one has it that can open it and would like to forward it to me I would sure appreciate it. Thanks.