bennadatto

Hey all! I've got a buddy with a busted saddle bag seam. The leather is REALLY stiff and he can't align both of the stitch lines to repair the seam. What's the best method to get this bag fixed? Thanks all! -sam

Hey all! How many of you use electronic edge creasers? If you're not using an electronic creaser, what do you use to get decorative edges? Thanks!

I was having some slippage issues with an acrylic template I just purchased. It was slipping all over the place. To fix, I simply glued a couple strips of leather with the grain side attached to the template so that the flesh side was facing out. Works like a charm, and leaves no marks on the leather I'm working with.

Hey all! Bringing up an older topic, but I can't wrap my brain around one part of the T-slot thing. I understand that in making the T slots, you're minimizing bulk on the edges. But...in the middle, you'll still have multiple layers of leather all stacked on each other. It seems to me that in doing this, you'll end up with a wallet that is thin on the borders, but has a mound in the middle where all the leather is stacked. I've seen videos where people skive down the edges of the card slots, but it still seems like you'll have a bulge in the middle. What am I missing? Thanks all! -sam

Good morning all! I've got a job coming up where I need to make 8 wallets. Since there would be 48 pieces in total required to complete the job, I'm looking to outsource cutting out the pieces. Is there a reputable vendor you guys know of that will pre-cut pieces of leather for a fair price? Thanks! -sam

hey all! I'm looking to find a source for what I think would be called a swivel stud. It would be used in a swivel holster similar to the attached image. It's the larger nickel "thingy" between the snap up top and the rivet below. Any help locating a source for this would be much appreciated. Thanks all!

Evening all! I have a customer that wants a custom made vertical shoulder holster. In order to capture the look he wants, I need to find a tension spring to help keep the holster's shape and security while allowing the customer to draw his long barrel pistol straight out of the holster. I've scoured google and I can't find what I'm looking for...maybe I haven't found the magic search phrase yet. Any ideas where to find a tension spring to accomplish what my customer wants? Thanks in advance!

All, I can't for the life of me figure out what is being used to keep the open back of this holster rigid so that the pistol doesn't fall out. I'm attaching a picture below in hopes that someone knows how to achieve this open back look. Thanks!

All, Good afternoon! I think it is possible to screenprint on leather, but haven't the slightest clue how to do this. Does anyone here know the best method of transferring an image to leather (other than stamping)? Thanks!

Good morning! If you had a pattern for a particular type of gun with normal sights, how would you need to adjust that pattern to accommodate target sights on the same gun? I have a pattern for a Ruger, but I need the pattern to fit a Ruger with target sights. thanks!

Good afternoon all! I keep running into the same problem everytime I make a holster. How do you get the stitch holes to line up on you holsters!? My method has been: after holster is tooled, run the stitch wheel down the tooled side of leather, fold leather over to make corners line up (as thought it were stitched) punch hole in the backside of holster through the first stitch hole, then run the stitch wheel from first hole in backside to end of holster. It seems, in theory, that if both sides are the same size, and the first hole matches, all the stitch holes should line up, but they usually don't. In the end, the holster looks fine, and the user would never know the difference, but I DO, and the last holster I made had a slight twist from the mis-matched stitching. HELP!

Twin Oaks, the revolver is a S&W 442. The cylindar measures 1 3/8 inches so I was going to adjust my pattern to incorporate a 1 inch cylindar to ensure a snug fit, and yes, a pouch type holster is all I am comfortable making given the circumstances. I am also planning to include a retention strap, actually I told the customer I won't do this job without a retention strap. Good idea about the clip. I will add that to the plan. Go2Tex, hopefully adding a clip will help with locating the gun in a pinch (God forbid). As for buying a blue gun, I'm still not sure if making holsters for modern guns is my bag. I have been making holsters for black powder and cowboy action revolvers for a while, and I find that to be my true enjoyment. Although, I would increase my customer base exponentially if I did modernize my inventory...food for thought. Thanks again everyone for all your advice. I will let you guys know how everything pans out.

Thanks all for your responses. I too was concerned about making a holster to fit a gun I don't have access to. I have explained to the customer in writing that the holster will by no means be form fitting, and will be more like a leather case rather than a holster. Since I can't wetmold the holster, I will also be adding a retention strap to ensure the gun doesn't fall out. With the proper measurements, do you think making a holster like the attached image would really be that disastrous?

I have a customer who wants a holster to store a snubnose revolver in their purse. I don't have the model of the gun available, so i have asked the customer for a few measurements. I have enough information from them to make out a profile of the gun and holster, but I am not sure how much space I should allow between the actual holster profile and the mirror image to make a good pattern. For clarity. | |____ (mirror of gun profile) {How much space goes here?} _____ (holster profile) | | Since I don't have the pistol available to wet mold, in addition to adding a retention strap, I want to ensure the holster fits pretty snug. I was going to have the profile and mirror image flush for the pattern, but I figured I would see if anyone has had previous experience. Thanks in advance!

So I'm finishing up a couple of belts for some customers tonight. I set the belts on the deck to apply Leather Sheen. When I go back outside it had started drizzling and left these wonderful water marks all over the wet leather sheen. The water marks look like someone touched the wet leather sheen with a little round object. Is there any way to strip the leather sheen and start over, or what can I do to mask the water marks. SOS!!!!

Hello all! I've been lurking around here for a bit, soaking up the volumes of information available. I have a question regarding double loop holsters. I'm not quite sure on the order of construction. In order to run the holster through the loops, you have to wet the holster. Do you stitch and stain before you run it through the loops, or do you run it through and then stitch and stain? To me, it would make sense to stitch and stain first, but when you wet the holster (because I use a gel based antique) my stain will run. How can I get around that. Would it help to run the holster through the loops (wet), take it out after it dries, stitch and stain, and then run it back through (dry). Now that I think about it, I don't think that will work either. HELP!!