Tac

Thanks Guys... the holster works well and has a decent amount of retention. It was a first attempt at that pattern, so I plan on improving on the stitch line. As for the partially exposed trigger, it was requested by the customer that the front of the holster go no further than the back of the cylinder and the back of the trigger..... so that's were I stopped. If the whole of the trigger had been exposed, I would have put up more resistance and tried to talk some logic into the customer, but this man has been carrying a revolver for more years that I have been on the planet, and he knew exactly what he wanted. He was pleased.... so I guess I should be happy with that. I don't get many requests for revolver holsters that aren't for a j-frame .38, so I was breaking new ground here...

Murse, If you are looking to add a "thumb break" to the holster, you will have to add the strap to the front piece of leather that will foldover the back of the slide, blocking the hammer spur. You can put a line snap on this end. Then add a similar strap to the back piece of the holster that you can fold over, and add a liner of some sort for rigidity inside the fold, then drill it and place the female side of the line snap on it, so that when the gun is in the holster the two meet on the back side of the holster and snap together. I have used small pieces of steel sheet metal as well as rawhide for the liner in the fold of the "thumb break". Either one worked well to give the thumb something to leverage off of when breaking the snap to draw the pistol. I wished I had a photo if what I am talking about, so that I could better illistrate what I mean. I don't build alot of holsters with thumb breaks and most of my 1911 holsters are made for those who are comfortable with the hammer being exposed. My open top holsters have enough retention with the tight fit an hand molding that a thumb break is not needed. Below is a link to Bianchi's web site, with numerous thumb break style holsters. The model 19L is a good example of this style. Obviously with the 1911, the hammer would be back in the cocked position and the strap would fold between it and the back of the slide. http://www.bianchi-intl.com/product/CatList.php?numSubCat=1 Hope this helps.

I have been making a version of the "Askin's Avenger" Holster for a while now, but to date, had never had a request for one for a revolver.... I have always made them for full size auto's, as the design is well suited to carrying a heavy gun and it works for both open and concealed carry. I just completed my first "Avenger" for a revolver and it turned out nice. I had to tweak my pattern a bit and this is the first one from that new pattern. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0885.jpg The gun is a S&W model 625-8 "Jerry Micklek" edition .45 ACP. It's an "N" frame revolver in stainless, that even with just a 4 inch barrel, is heavy. The holster works well in tucking in the butt of the gun and carrying it's weight without flopping or drooping. Just thought I would share.

Wow! I am sorry... did I mention WOW? That looks fantastic. Ok, now I have to put my art-teacher-wife to work with the stencils and air brush... Just when I thought I was starting to figure this "leather" thing out.... you go and throw in a twist.....

ttownfire, I make a "pancake" style holster for that type of pistol and it works well. I will post a pick of it, so you can have a visual. It's not hard to do. The one I have a pic of has a small amount of basket stamping, but it is optional. This style of holster is great for open or concealed carry, and I wear this holster daily. For my holsters I use 7/8 oz. leather for the "face" (outside portion of the holster) and a heavier 11/12 oz. piece of leather for the "back" of the holster. This allows you to wet mold and bone the face of the holster to the gun with good detail, and back portion adds rigidity to the holster. I cut my belt loops to 1 3/4 inches, so they fit well on a 1.5 to 1 3/4 inch belt, which is the width I wear most oftern and helps in supporting the weight of the gun. I also cut the back piece large enough to cover the slide of the pistol and rear sights, as a sweat guard. This also helps keep any sharp edges from digging into the wearer's side, making the holster more comfortable to wear. For dye, I use the Fliebings oil dye in black. I usually dye my holsters after they have been sewn, edged, wet molded and boned. I burnish the edges while they are still wet from the molding process. Once dry, I dye with a dauber using a couple of coats to get an even color. Once dry from dying, I seal the edges with Gum Tragancanth and apply a finish. Most often, I use a spray on finish in a can. Here is a pic of a holster for my Kahr Arms CW 45, which is just slightly larger than the K9/P9/K40/P40 series of guns. http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac...nt=100_0844.jpg Let me know if you have any questions. -Good luck

Dan, It depends mostly on the thickness of the thread I am using. Most of my projects I can get away with just drilling the holes on the drill press, with no need for the awl. If the leather is thick and the thread I am using is heavy, then using the awl after the drill press can help make sewing easier. Most of my holsters are made with a double thickness of 7/8 oz. leather in the areas that are sewn, and I just use the drill press for the holes.

Pete... Here is a pick of my burnishing wheel set up. It's the slicker wheel from Tandy mounted on a bolt so it can be chucked in my drill press. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0880.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0881.jpg Let me know if you have any questions.

WaG35... Here is a pic of the front and back of the clip on cuff case I make. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0879.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0878.jpg If you have questions, let me know.

WaG35.. The cuff case is a single piece of leather that is cut at an angle, somewhat shaped like and "L", wrapped around and held together with a snap. A "flap" of leather is left loose, that is folded back, a oblong punch is used to punch a hole for a belt clip, which is inserted and riveted in place through the flap and body of the pouch. It is pretty quick to make and requires no sewing at all. I will see if I can get a picture of it and post it for you.

Outstanding! That's alot of gun to wrap hide around!

Dan, I punch all my holes just before I start sewing. I rarely have a problem with them closing up. Like Lobo, I use a drill press on most of my projects, but I use a very small drill bit to actually drill a small hole in the leather..... Occasionally I will use a sewing awl, but I still punch the holes first with the blade from the awl before I sew them. I imagine if you wait long enough after punching the holes, that they could close up... but I don't give them a chance. Most of my projects are not so large as for time to be a factor in the sewing of pre-punched holes.

Arts... That was a double rig that I made as a "middle of the back" set up as an experiment. mostly just to get the pattern/sewing right. It wasn't finished to the level that I would consider one of my better peices, but I did take a pic of it and will post it just for you... The guns are both Kel-Tec's... a PF9 9mm and a P3AT .380. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0797.jpg The burnishing of the edges and the molding are not completed to my normal standard, as I made the rig mostly to test the pattern, but it is functional and works well. It's hard to conceal without a jacket. Thanks for all the kind words. -Tac

Pete.... I do not have a pick of the slicker set up, but I will try and take one and post it in the next few days. As for the Sig and the hand size issue.... I am right there with you on most of them. I have a P220 (.45) that fits my hand, but I had to install a short trigger to be able to control it in double action and hit anything with it. It is single stack, like the P225 and therefore narrower than the P226/228/229 series of guns. I have a new P250 9mm with the polymer frame that fits my hand well. It is Double Action Only, but the trigger is light and smooooooooooth... It shoots well enough to make me consider it in the running for replacing my P225 as my favorite 9mm Sig... -Tac

I love my Sig P225... great gun. Most of the holsters I sell are for Sig's, as thats what my department issues as a duty gun. I picked up a cheap drill press at Harbor Frieght tool for the same reason and it works great and has served me well. I mounted one of the Tandy slicker wheels to a bolt with a nut and chuck it in the drill press for most of my burnishing jobs. It works pretty well for straight edges, but not so well for small or tight areas. -Good luck -Tac

RickyBobby... I agree with K-man on the recommended models. I live in Az. as well, and I sell 90% of the hosters I make to cops ( I am one, so they seem to trust me). Find out what the PD in your area carries or authorizes for off-duty carry and start from there. In the metro-Phoenix area it's either Glock (about 80%) or Sig (about 15%) or 1911 (5%) for issued/uniform guns.... Alot of cops have to carry their duty gun when they are in plain clothes as detectives or while attending court, training, etc. and they are looking for a plain clothes (not a duty belt style) holster for that gun.... Off duty guns tend to be smaller versions of the full sized duty gun. The J-frame S&W .38 is always a popular off duty gun/back up weapon, with the Glock 26/27 being a large performer too in that area. In Az you will NEVER go wrong building a good 1911 holster.... Outside the L.E. market, look at the XD, Glock, 1911, J-frame S&W, Kel-Tec and Kahr Arms. These guns are all popular with the CCW crowd for obvious reasons. Good Luck. -Tac

Wow Pete.. that's a pretty good start if you ask me... You seem to have a good understanding of wet molding and stitching... You better watch out... you will get bitten by the bug and the next thing you know you will be making holsters for guns you don't even own! (which is always a good reason to buy more guns!)

Being new to the forum, I thought I'd take a moment to introduce myself.... My given name is Jerry, but all my friends call me "Tac".... It's a nick-name I picked up, after the "police academy" movies came out.... Short for "Tackleberry", who is the gun-nut cop...... I'll leave the reasoning as to why I got labeled with that name to your imagination... I am a working cop (Sergeant), Firearms Instructor (Department Range Master) and a cowboy action shooter.... Most of my projects are work related or directed at my other shooting related hobbies. I took an "industrial arts" class in Jr. High School, too many years ago to remember, and that was my intro to leather crafting.... I re-discovered it out of necessity, when I needed to repair a holster.... before too long, I was buying out half of the Tandy store and building all kinds of gear for my guns and work items... next thing you know, I'm being asked to make holsters/gear for the guys at work.... And having fun doing it... Most of what I have learned regarding leather work has come from trial/error, reading books and on-line, or in forums like this one, with a video or two thrown in. I have stuck pretty much with what I know ( I know guns and holsters well), and am just starting to open my eyes to the multitude of other projects out there. Anyway... that's me... Thanks for having me. -Tac

Hi guys and galls... I am new to this forum, after finding it from a link on another board. I have been tinkering with leather for about 3 years now, mostly as a hobby that started when I needed to repair a holster I owned... then I made a "better" knife sheath for a favorite hunting knife.. the bug bit me and I have been making mostly holsters, sheaths, pouches and assorted duty gear-police type stuff every since. I am a working cop who has found a hobby that is fun, productive and creative. I will try and post a couple of pictures of some of my work, so that you can see what I do mostly, and also so you can point out things that I can do to improve my work. Comments are appreciated. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/1911LtBrown.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac...eaveLtbrown.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/1911Black.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0796.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0851.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0845.jpg You have to forgive my photography... I am lucky if I can figure out how to turn my camera "on", let alone take a good picture with it... I don't do much in the way of carving or stamping, due to most of my items being wet molded and boned to the outline of the item, but some day, I hope to learn.... I am just starting to fingue out stamping, basket weave and border stamping. -Tac