Tac

Twin Oaks... Fold on bottom, welt on top.... got it... But pictures would still be cool

Jared, I own a Mitch Rosen holster that I bought almost 20 years ago. It is still in great shape and works better with use now than it did all those years ago. Mr. Rosen make some high quality gear. As of late, I understand that he has had to focus on quantity due to the expansion of his business. Your comment does not upset me, nor am I making excuses for Mr. Rosen, but rather just stating my opinion. He makes good gear, but very few of us in this life are perfect, myself incuded. -Tac

Jeff, I have no experience with the Duncan cast aluminum dummy guns. Can you advise what the average cost would be for a model that they already produce? Is there a price difference if you are ordering one of the first four guns? (Reduced cost with volume purchases ?) I am curious and interested in this concept. I am not sure that I have as large of a need as others, but I am still interested. -Tac

Looks are great, but function is the key. Sounds like yours functioned exactly as it should. Thats what it's all about. If you are mentoring under Jeff in this craft, you have a sound and accomplished artisan to learn from. My "real job" is that of a full time Police Sergeant and the Range Master for my department. I spend alot of time abusing gear in training. To me a holster is supposed to work, not be an fashion accesory or a piece of art (Although some I have seen from artisans on this site can fill these rolls as well). It bothers me when I hear some of my troops complain that they don't want to use their normal carry gear in training out of fear that it will get dinged or scratched up. I have long been a proponant of the adage that you should fight the way you train and train the way you will fight... that includes using the gear you will have when the fight comes. I am glad to hear that there are craftsman out there who actually USE the gear that they make. This perspective will make you a better craftsman and improve your product. -Tac P.S. Nice thing about making your own gear is that you can make yourself a new holster for "show" and wear the one that you abuse during training.... Besides, it gives you an excuse to make another holster.

That right there is FUNNY..... I don't care who you are....

JoelR, Interstingly enough, I did try the material that my wife uses to line drawers with (I think its similar to what you are talking about) and it worked pretty well to prevent the holster from moving around, but it didn't hold up well. I guess it wasn't meant to handle all the movement. It tore out where I stitched it and I had to repair it several times. Might have been my design though. I finally came to the conclusion that I couldn't better the DeSantis desing I was trying to emulate and when I figured out the cost, I was actually spending a little more than what the factory holster cost me... So I gave up. Shorts, Jeff is right on target with his comments. I shold have mentioned the "link factor", as I have seen some strange things end up stuck in a gun after it was carried in a pocket.... (coins, sticks of gum, etc.) -Tac

As always, your attention to detail is inspiring Jeff..... I like the cant, the detail boning and the double stitching. The edges look perfect.... Between you and Monica, I am begining to feel like I need to redouble my efforts to raise to the next level of craftsmanship! (Or craftWOMANship, in Monica's case ) Please continue to post picks of your work.... they really do inspire those of use still working on our technique to improve. -Tac

Shorts.... JoelR covers alot of ground in his post.... Most of it is relevent and accurate. I have several pocket holsters. some I bought, some I made, for both J-frame revolvers and small autos like my Kel-tec P3AT and my PF-9. I look at where the gun is to be carried first. Front pocket carry has different requirements than back pocket. I also want to make sure that the holster stays in the pocket when I draw. My next concern is that the holster break up the outline of the gun so that it doesn't print like a gun..... by that I mean, you expect it to print, but not to look like a gun. It doesn't have to look like a wallet or phone, but it shouldn't be obvious that the bulge in my pocket is a revolver. I have found that the vast majority of my "pocket carry" is usually done in the winter time, when I am wearing a jacket that precludes me from drawing from the waist without disrobing.... For that purpose, due to the larger pockets involved (coat pockets), I want a holster that will keep the gun in position within the pocket. I don't want the gun floating around in the pocket or inverting. It should be in the same place each time I put my hand in the pocket. The best holster I have found for my needs (so far) is the DeSantis 'Nemisis' holster... It is a synthetic rig with a rubber-like outer surface that sticks to the pocket like fly paper! They are also pretty cheap... I have tried my hand at improving on the pocket holster with leather versions I have made myself, and I always end up with the DeSantis holster back in my pocket... (Not to discourage you, just passing on my experience and my preference.... remember... my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it! ) Hope this helps... -Tac

Wow that turned out nice! Was it as hard to work with as you anticipated? -Tac

Nice work Troop. What are you using to re-enforce your paddles? Kydex? Metal? or just leather? Inquiring minds want to know... -Tac

Nice holster and great design. I also appreciate the thought put into the rear snap attachment. Well done! -Tac

Wow, that is a beautiful rig! It looks well designed to.... Obviously for larger hunting pistols, but I have a couple in the collection that would work well in that type of rig. -Tac

Randy, I started out building the vast majority of my holsters for officers of my department and we are issued the Sig series pistols (P220, P220R, P239, P245). I ordered my first Sig blue gun for a P220R and have been using it to build holsters for the non-railed version, as well as the P226 (with or without rails). The slightly thicker frame/dust cover of the railed gun doesn't cause any issue when the holster made for it is used with a non-railed gun. If the gun is properly molded and the stitching is close to the outline of the gun, it will hold/retain either pistol (railed or non-railed) just fine. The P239 is a very popular handgun with our detectives and smaller statured officers and I have build several holsters for it as well. I have not broken down and purchased a blue gun for this model yet, as I have access to the real firearm and the purse strings have gotten tightened recently. Up till about 6 months ago, I had not received a request for a P229 holster. When I did, it was from a full time firearms instructor for our state police, who informed me that he would direct business my way, if anyone asked about his holster.... Thinking this was a pretty good indicator of future business, I ordered the blue gun for the P229R. After I made his holster with it, it took me about 3 months to start getting more orders in for the model. Since the few orders I have filled after the purchase of the P229R paid for it, I consider it a wise move. I don't see any point in having a blue gun for each specific model, if you can make another blue gun "multi-task" to fit the need. My P220R blue gun is used to make holsters for the P220R, P220, P226, P226R and an open bottom pancake holster that is popular with my Detectives who carry the P245 (it allows them to use their full sized gun in the same holster). Thats 5 models of guns for the price of the one blue gun. Obviously the P229 and P239 are stand alone guns due to their frame sizes, but I just wanted to explain how I can minimize the number of blue guns needed to build a variety of holsters for several models. Not knowing who your customers are, I would recommend finding out what the larger police agencies in your area are issuing and what the officers are purchasing for back up guns. That will always be a good place to start your blue gun collection. Around here there are 3 big names in the L.E. market, Glock, Sig, and 1911 (Various makes, Kimber, Springfield, Colt, Para, etc.). Since the vast majority of my customers are in L.E. locally, I started out with those three makes (with a couple models from each make, i.e. G22, G23, G27). I also found out that the Smith & Wesson J-frame guns were a popular back up/off duty gun, so I added one to the blue gun collection. At any rate, this has worked for me..... Your milage may vary. Good luck. -Tac

Those are fantastic Monica...... WOW. I like the color, the design and the detail molding. With the width of the holster body, I am sure they spread out the weight of the gun well. I am not much for wearing my pistols inside my waist band, as my "budweiser tumor" makes it uncomfortable, but I know a lot of people who are not so afflicted and prefer that mode of carry. -Tac

Boomstick, I agree with your post, but my understanding of the original post was that this was to be a western style belt for a cowboy type rig, not a regular pants belt. a 2.5 inch or 3 inch ranger style belt would be completely appropriate for that style. I also second The Major's comment... A stirrup blank would work well in this application and be relatively easy to find and plently long enough. -Tac

I love the color and like the overall design. I am not one for that degree of cant. I prefer a more vertical cant for my holsters, but I know alot of people who request a forward cant on theirs. Very nice third attempt! I hope to see pictures of #4. -Tac

T-nuts are available at most Home Depot stores/hardware stores. They are like a nut with a flat flange that has "teeth" that are bent up from the flange. The "teeth" allow you to seat them in the leather so that when a screw is turned into it, the nut does not just spin. If you punch a hole in the leather for the threaded portion of the t-nut to protrude through, and seat the "teeth/flange" into the back side of the leather, it gives you a place to bolt on a belt clip, strap or what-have-you. I am sure someone can post a picture of one. They are pretty popular for making attachment points on holsters. -Tac

Hard to see details in the photo, but it looks very nice. Good design, nice stitching and smooth edges. Well Done, Sir! -Tac

Something similar to this, but with a cup at the bottom to hold the muzzle?

Since no one else mentioned it..... NICE GUN! I love my .40 Springfield XDm. All in all, a very good first attempt. I like the color and the molding looked well done. A drill press for the holes in the stitch line will definatley clean things up and cut your build time. A drum sander chucked in that same drill press will do wonders for your final edge finishing and beveling. A burnishing tool chucked in that same press will speed things up and produce professional grade edges in no time. (if you are thinking about a drillpress for the future, Harbor Freight and Tool has some decent table top versions for a very reasonable price) Practice makes perfect.... Once you have made yourself about 5 different holsters for each of your guns (one in each color to match your belts and shoes ) you will find yourself building holsters for all your friends and family... It's a rewarding hobby. -Tac

Dwight, What weight leather are you using for belt and liner? Thanks -Tac

I just checked a listing for Rings Blue Guns and did not see any listings for the Kahr Arms guns at all... That doesn't mean that its not made, but you might have to contact Rings directly. -good luck -Tac

Just completed another knife/sheath combination for my buddy who commissioned my last knife/sheath project... This one is for a gift to his father. I think it turned out well. If you see some glaring mistakes or areas where improvements can be made, please let me know. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0966.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0961.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0960.jpg -Tac

I was reading another post in which a board member commented on how they got interested or "hooked" on leather crafting/leather working, and rather than hijack that thread, I thought I'd start one on the topic... Heres my introduction into the world of leather craft/holster making. My first experience with any sort of leather crafting was an "industrial arts" class I took in the 8th grade...(seems like a lifetime ago...) I had fun learning to stamp leather and made a couple of small projects. I found that it wasn't nearly has hard as "wood shop" and didn't require me to use tools that could cause me to lose fingers or worse... Fast forward about 20 years... I am a working cop who is putting his wife through college..... One of my favorite off-duty holsters finally wore out and came apart. Not willing to let it die and too cheap to spend the cash on a new one, I decided to try and "fix" it... I took it to a Tandy Leather factory and spoke with the manager about how to sew it back together. He sold me a Al Stohlman (sp?) book on leather sewing, and awl, thread, needles and some "practice leather" to go home and work on.... After reading the book and trying a few stiches, I took my holster apart and repaired it. It worked like new again, and I discovered that it was fun and not nearly as hard as I thought... So, I stopped back by the leather store, picked up a few more books and started "Tinkering".... Now I know all of the employees of the leather store by first name (When I walk in it's like 'Norm' entering Cheers!), and I am producing about 10-15 holsters a month for sale, as well as a steady stream of other cop related leather products (cuff cases, mag pouches, belt pouches, etc.). That's my story... what's yours? -Tac