Tac

This is a version of a double mag pouch I made using the method Shorts described... it turned out well.. I'll post a picture of the holster it was made to match also, do you can see how the set turned out..

Absolutely stunning! I love the color!

I use a tip that I learned here quite a while ago for use in figuring the stitch line of pancake style holsters... I trace the outline of the gun out. Then I measure the thickness of the slide at it's widest point. I cut this measurement in half (1 inch wide=1/2 in., etc.). I then set this dimention on my wing dividers and use them to trace the outline of the gun I have drawn, leaving a slight impression the exact distance I set them too, away from the gun's outline. I then use this as my stitch line for both the slide and trigger guard sides of the gun. It works well with semi-auto pistols and usually follows the lines of the gun very well, while allowing enough room for the pistol without it being too tight or too loose. Revolvers, due to their cylinder bulk, require a little more "trial and error".... These are the wing dividers I use. Here are a few examples of my work using this method to get my stitch lines.... Hope this helps... -Tac

Hive... I don't forge my own blades either. Like you, I buy the blade blanks and go from there. Even at that, there is still some skill and technique involved, so I wouldn't call it "Cheating" as much as "Working smarter, not harder"..

Nice knife and sheath.... I use elk antler quite a bit in some of my knifes and have used both of the methods of attachment you mentioned... and yes... a long drill bit is required for a large rat-tailed tanged blade if using a good sized elk antler... Here are a couple picks of ones I have done using elk. -Tac

I have several holsters where I just used a good coat of neatsfoot oil and let it 'rest' in the sun for a little while to get to the shade I was looking for, with no other "final" finish applied. All of them are holding up well and look exactly like I wanted them too. -Tac

Very Nice Banjo.... I can't think of a thing that I would change or improve upon. The holster looks clean and well thought out. I like the badge holder and the belt looks like you could use it to tow a truck if you need too! As far as the lining goes... I don't have any experience with "glazed" pig skin, but I have used veg-tanned pig skin on several occasions with very good results. -Tac

I use a real bone folder, a polished elk antler and the end of my freehand stitch groover most often... I have also been successful in "drawing in" some of the fine lines and details with the end of my stylus (the pointed end, not the ball end), but this is usually done once I have "boned" and molded the holster and is really only used to chase the lines for more detail.

The back belt loop is sewn on seperately, before the body of the holster is folded over, glued and sewn. It might be worth mentioning that with the seperate belt loop, you will obviously have to line it up to be straight with the trailing loop in the holster body, or it will add cant to the holster. Good luck. I think you will get what you are looking for with a design along the lines of this one. It works for me. -Tac

Apart from the stitching issues in the holster I have pictured, it rides very well and conceals under a shirt, sweatshirt or hoodie easily. It is for a .45 ACP caliber N-frame S&W 625 (same frame size as a model 29). It has a 4 inch barrel as well. I kept the trigger guard just above the belt line and it doesn't have a tilting problem when worn with a good belt. I am 6'01" tall, so I don't have issues with the high ride and the draw stroke with this holster. If the barrel where much longer, I might. I agree with what everyone has already posted. Too high is problematic, a good belt is required and dressing to conceal is a must (fashion sense be damned!) Good luck with your search. -Tac

Like Lobo and Mike (Katsass), I have 20+ years carrying a badge and a gun and I make the vast majority of my holsters for cops. I like the ability to arrange my belt gear where I need it, rather than how the maker of the gear thinks it should be positioned. As a result, i make individual clip on belt accessories, such as mag pouches and handcuff cases. Some folks carry thier handcuffs behind thier gun, others on thier off-side. Mag pounches should always be worn on the off-side (IMHO). With them being seperate and able to be placed where you want/need them, they are more likely to be comfortable and actually carried and available when needed. I usually do carry a set of restraints or cuffs with me (or have then available close at hand) anytime I am armed (anytime I am outside my home). When working in plain clothes, I always have access to handcuffs. We handcuff a lot more people than we shoot.... Anyway, enough about my rant... I will try and attach a pic of the cuff case I make... -Tac

Depends on the style of holster for me, but most often I stich with my machine...

I use the same method as Shorts and have never had a problem.

WOW! thats beautiful! (the 1911 too! I love those grips! Beautiful contrast to the deep black textured shark skin.) -Tac

Contact cement works best and you have to glue the lining leather while holding the holster in the folded position. If you glue it flat, it will wrinkle when you fold it.

Very good first go... I wish my first attempts had been so well exicuted. As far as comments go.... I like the over all design, but the forward belt loop, placed as it is, will require a tight belt angle that may bind and contort the belt, causing problems with mounting, dismounting and overall long term wear. Also, the belt loops themselves look like they were sort of an "after thought". A little more time spent on rounding the edges and they would look much better. Your wet molding looks good and will only get better with some time and experience. -Tac

They are the same as the Colt mags. Both have a pressed in rib that run down the inside of both sides of the magazine to center the smaller rounds inside the same diamerer mag body as the .45. Any mag for a .45 should work fine. The only exception to this would be the Springfield EMP 9mm 1911, as it has a reduced size magazine. -Tac

Dye the leather first, sew it second? Sorry for not being much help, but I do not have another answer to your question.

That question is geographic and hard to answer... depends on where you are and what intent the holster is for. There are a huge number of holsters being made for things like CCW, Cowboy Action Shooting, IDPA, Hunting, etc... So it would be best to qualify your question with a type of holster...i.e. "what is the most popular gun that ccw holsters are being made for?" or "What is the most popular gun that western style holsters are being made for?, etc. For the modern CCW and open carry market, the 1911 is probably in the top 5. Also included would likely be the Glock series of pistols and the Sig series of guns. Smith & Wesson J-frame revolvers are also likely in that top 5, at least in my neck of the woods... The western style holster is dominated by the Ruger Vaquero and the Colt/Clone 1873 Peacemaker/S.A.A. -Tac

WOW.... Speachless.. thanks for sharing.

Nice choice of styles to carry a larger-heavy full sized pistol. I like the Avenger style for my full size guns. Yours looks to be a good first attempt and completely functional. One suggestion/recommendation for any future hosters of this style.... cut a section of small dowel rod to fit between the front and rear sights and tape it to the slide with some blue painters tape before you wet mold the holster to the gun, in order to create a "sight tunnel/track". This will help prevent the "front sight bump" your holster is showing, as well as make it easier to draw the gun and prevent the front sight from shaving out a gouge in the leather during the draw. -Tac

Nice craftsmanship! DMR400.... Brother, when was the last time you were in a gun fight where having too much ammunition was a bad thing?

I picked up an Artisan Toro-3000 that was a "demo" machine used at a trade show. I have been using it a few times a week for almost 3 years now and have only had to replace one needle and keep it oiled and clean. It has never given me any trouble at all and is easy to adjust to different leather/projects. I really like it and for the money can't think of one single thing that has sped up my production more. Since getting it, I have found I am more likely to experiement with designs/styles than I ever was when I was hand sewing. You won't regret going to a powered machine. As a matter of fact, once you have it, you will wonder how you ever got along without it before! -Tac

I like the "New York Reload" shoulder holster... Very cool design. Your XD compact holster looks clean. It could use a little more time working on the edges. I usually burnish mine with a peice of heavy canvas cut from an old pair of pants. The design also looks a little narrow to me. If you extended out the belt slots away from the holster pouch by about a half an inch or so in each direction, it would help the holster carry the weight of the gun and not cause such an agressive bend in the belt slot "wings" (specifically the rear/trailing slot). The mag pouch looks like it was a drawn/patterned for a longer magazine. Again, without be too critical, if you made it a little wider on both sides of the belt slots and a little shorter, it would be just about perfect. I use a heavy belt to carry my pistols/mags on and with the tight bends required to threat through your belt slots, I seriously doubt I could get either of them on to my belt.... Just my thoughts... -Tac

Sixer... Not sure what all I have pictures of as far as revolvers go, but here you go... http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0884.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/100_0845.jpg http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j296/Tac56/LinedPocketHolster.jpg Hmmm.... I thought I had more pics than that of previously made holsters for the wheel guns... guess I need to put the camera back where I can find it again... -Tac