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SheltathaLore

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Posts posted by SheltathaLore


  1. This weekend was an adventure - broke my garment machine twice attempting to sew light leather on it with a self-modified foot (whoops.  extreme regret), fixed it twice (extremely proud of myself!), and lost some screws in the process.  After some creative deciphering of the parts list, I'm fairly certain I know what I need to replace the missing feed dog screw with, but I also lost one of the screws that holds the hook on (WHY ARE THEY SO IMPOSSIBLY TINY).  Anyone know what I need for a replacement?  I assume the dealer replaced the hook before sending it to me (it seems improbable that a Chinese knockoff brand installs Japanese hooks by default) - but if it helps, it's a Typical GC6760, and this is the manual + parts list: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4q5z7a550assjfw/TY_manual_GC6760_en_01.pdf?dl=0

     

    Relatedly, I assume this machine is a clone, but if anyone knows what it's a clone *of*, it might save some puzzling over e.g. what the heck a "Screw SM3.18-44x6.5" is, in the future.

     

    Picture:

    YSeu8sP.jpg

    20111101090049064906.jpg

     


  2. 30 minutes ago, jayker2002 said:

    +1 vote for this video for sharpening the knife. Do exactly the same way , first is 700 grit, then 1000 and polish the last step with 6000 grit stone). After that is strop. My knives working perfectly now. 

     

    I love the strop you have. How can you apply the compound smooth like that? Hope you can give me the idea. 

    Thanks 

    It's so smooth that I suspect it came pre-loaded.  IF you're loading it yourself, though, mineral oil does wonders - I think burrfection has a youtube video on loading up a strop.


  3. It doesn't take as much equipment as you'd think. Stitch groover, 1/4 gouge, skiving knives, assorted hammers, jerk needle, awl... I do have a walking foot sewing machine, but honestly, with leather this light (particularly once it's skived) you could probably get away with a domestic machine just fine.  The laser cutter doesn't even belong to me - there's a guy in my neighborhood who cuts stuff for cheap. 

    A lot of times, I use extra tools (milling machine, laser cutter, etc)  in order to get a cleaner or more consistent result; there's not much that couldn't be achieved just as well by hand, with skill and care. So don't count yourself out just yet! 


  4. Prototype #2, stuck to the sole with tape again.  Looking surprisingly legit; I think I can move onto the final version.  Differences:

    • Used a somewhat thicker and stiffer leather, along with an extra side stiffener layer
    • Laser cut the applique and assembled it entirely with glue; I'll stick with the laser cutting, but if I can get the hang of leather applique I'd prefer to do that in addition.
    • Straps aren't stitched on the edges, but that was mostly just for speed of assembly of the test version.  I'll stitch the final version.
    • Added stiffener to applique layer, and ran the heel strap through a channel between the top of the applique and the lining.

    The toe turned out a bit messy, but I think skiving more aggressively in that area should take care of things.

    S32HIZW.jpg

    5eOx2kO.jpg


  5. I do have to admit that I've been eyeing this Pfaff 483 - even with shipping I'd probably break even if I had to part it out - but I'm trying to keep the collection under control, unless something comes up that's just so perfect that it's a once-in-a-decade opportunity.  Like perhaps a used 110W or something.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Pfaff-483-Light-Leather-w-roller-foot/132462855868?hash=item1ed766c6bc:g:BGUAAOSw-K9ZHT7B

     


  6. 11 hours ago, Constabulary said:

    really nice machines for this kind of work and for decorative stitching are machines with continuous wheel feed like Singer 110w and the like but they have a very limited stitch length.

    Ooh.  I'll have to keep an eye out.  A quick google isn't bringing up much, though, so I'm guessing they're less common than the 111 et al.  Are there similar machines I should be watching for?


  7. Okay, tried a teflon zipper foot, got surprisingly decent results on a test piece.  I still need more practice, but a reasonable result is clearly achievable, and matching thread will make the occasional wobble a lot less obvious.  I think I'll try to hunt down a triangle point needle in the DBx1 system, or try a round point; the twisty stitches aren't quite the look I'd like.

    Darren, at some point in the future I might still hit you up for that roller foot if you still have one, but don't reserve it for me.

    DMDgxn4.jpg

     


  8. Oh cool!  I have a hard time visualizing it, but it's neat that it worked.

    There is clearly more to this applique business than having the right gadget, unsurprisingly, but the gadgets help... and it's a fun excuse to track them down.

     

    I wasn't terribly successful with rigging up a bracket for the Singer foot, but it occurs to me that a teflon zipper foot might do.  If that doesn't work out, I'll hit up Darren for his foot and see if I can get that to work (I did tinker with the needle bar height and orientation to figure out where the adjustments were, so I can probably make it work).


  9. Welp, I installed a standard roller foot needle plate and feed dog, and nothing went horribly wrong or collided when I did a few stitches with teh handwheel (although if I ever want to stitch at longer stitch lengths, I'll need to doublecheck again.  Woo needle feeds.)

    I have an old foot that I found on the floor when I was cleaning - the base somehow got rusted - so it's an ideal candidate for making a bracket.  I'll give it a try once the roller foot arrives.

     

    I did try the other kind of roller foot on my machine, and it sewed with surprisingly little fuss (size 16 needle, 46 thread), but the visibility and control aren't good enough for what I wanted to do.  It would probably be fine for straight stitching, though.

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