jdwhitak

Selling a like new Doldokki leather cutting knife with the right-handed single bevel. Nothing wrong with the knife. I just like my Chartermade knives a little bit better. These are ~$100 with shipping from Fine Leatherworking. Asking $85 shipped. Willing to negotiate on price.

Still have the #7 set along with the one-tooth. Willing to negotiate on price. Just make an offer and I'll consider it.

These have been sold!

Selling two Doldokki clicking knives. One is 20mm wide and the other is 50mm wide. Both were purchased new by me earlier this year from Fine Leatherworking. These are great knives that are very sharp. They also leave a very clean, straight edge. I've since purchased the Doldokki knives that have handles and so I'm moving these along to a loving home. Asking $65 for the pair or $35 each separately. Price includes shipping in the continental US.

#8 set has been sold!

Ranelpia, I was in a similar situation to you not long ago. Deciding what sharpening system to go with is a personal choice. Everyone has their favorites. I decided to try each system for myself before buying a full setup. Here is what I found: Sandpaper/Honing Film on Plate Glass, Marble, etc. This is frequently called the Scary Sharp method. It has lowest entry cost, but the highest cost in the long run. You have to constantly replace the sharpening media. I bought a piece of plate glass from Lee Valley that is sold for this purpose. It is a good size and you can have an entire grit progression on one plate. I bought 3M micro honing films (12 micron to .3 micron) for my experimenting at my local Woodcraft. I got good results, but it is the most expensive method in the long run. I wanted a more cost effective solution. Water Stones The grit in most man-made water stones is aluminum oxide set in some kind of binder. So, I wouldn't get hung up on any particular brand. In addition to leather working and now woodworking, I'm a serious some chef. A handful of years ago I purchased a set of Shapton Glass stones. They worked good. Water stones do make a serious mess in my opinion, which is contrary to most people's opinion on the matter. Water stones will sharpen more quickly because the binder easily breaks down and releases fresh grit. However, because of that water stones wear more quickly and require frequent lapping (flattening) of the surface. You will have to buy a lapping plate just for that purpose. I was lapping every sharpening session. Some times I had to stop mid sharpening to lap the stone. I found this very inconvenient. If you want to go the water stone route I would suggest Norton. You can get two combination stones that cover 1K to 8K plus a lapping plate for around $150. Buy the way, I sold my Shapton Glass stones and bough oil stones. Oil Stones This is the system that I ended up going with. If you want to go the oil stone route then I highly suggest Dan's Whetstone Co. There are companies selling "Arkansas" stones very cheaply out there. However, they are not real Arkansas stones. Real Arkansas stones are made from naturally occurring novaculite, which is a microcrystalline quartz. I bought a pocket-sized Soft Arkansas and a Hard Black Arkansas from Dan's to try for about $60. They worked great. A couple of things to keep in mind about Arkansas stones is that they do cut more slowly. For me this is a benefit as I tend to overdo things. I think the slowness of the stone will actually save me from ruining knives. Second, Arkansas stones may not work great on some of the super hard steels knife makers are starting to use. I can attest though that Arkansas stones work just fine on O1, A2 and D2 tool steel. As far as man-made stones go, again go with Norton. Their India stone is made from aluminum oxide and their Crystolon stone is made from silicon carbide. Norton oil stones are very cheap and they even come with a plastic case. I paid $20 for a medium India at sharpeningsupplies.com. You can do a three-stone progression from coarse to fine for about $60. The really good thing about Arkansas stones and even the man-made Norton stones is how slowly they wear. In your lifetime you may never have to lap them. In fact these can become a family heirlooms passed down to your kids and even grandkids. Diamond These seem to be all the rage these days. I have a X-Coarse DMT plate that I bought to solely use as a lapping plate. I would NOT use a diamond plate to sharpen any kind of knife. Diamond stones are extremely aggressive and leave deep scratches. They'll chew up your nice knives in a New York minute! The benefits of diamond plates is that you will never have to lap them and the abrasive lasts a very long time. Depending on how much you sharpen you may not have to replace them in your lifetime. If you want to use diamonds for sharpening, which I would not recommend, I would go with DMT. They are actually reasonably priced for what you are getting; a nice heavy plate and a continuous mono crystalline diamond surface. My Setup 1 x Norton India, medium - used as a coarse stone for re-profiling for fixing a more serious problem quickly. 1 x Dan's Whetstone Soft Arkansas - used as a medium stone. Edges off just this stone can be pretty good. 1 X Dan's Whetstone Hard Black - used as a fine stone. Edges off this stone can be crazy sharp. Does not provide a mirror shine though, more of a matte shine. 1 X Leather strop w/ chromium oxide (green) paste. This is my go to for maintaining my knives. I strop before cutting and during cutting.

I just purchased some of the Doldokki knives that are single bevel and I can't say enough good things about these knives. They are very sharp and leave the cleanest edge I've seen on leather. I've put the Tina blade rearing on hold until I'm better equipped to do it. That or find someone who wouldn't mind doing it for me

I started leather working in December 2017 and these were the first iron I bought based on Nigel Armitage's videos. Thanks to his videos my stitching has become very good, very fast. Other leather workers where I'm at think it is machine stitched. I'm wanting to move up and master the traditional pricking iron and awl. Hence the irons I'm willing to trade for. Absolutely nothing wrong with these and I still have the original boxes.

Selling two sets of KS Blade pricking/stitching irons. These irons are designed to go all the way through the leather. Both sets were purchased new by me in December 2017 and are in great condition. I have # 7 (3.85mm) two piece set with a 2-tooth and a 8-tooth iron. I also have a #8 (3.38mm) two piece set with a 2-tooth and a 9-tooth iron. Finally, I have a 1-tooth iron (1.8mm) that has the same tooth size and KS's #5 - # 8 irons. The #7 set sells new for $160, the #8 sets sell new for $170, and the 1-tooth sells new for $35. New prices are from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Asking $250 for all. Individual prices are $120 per set and $20 for the 1-tooth. Willing to trade for the following: Blanchard in #7 / #9 sets, Doldokki Pricking or Diamond Stitching in #7 / #9 sets, Crimson Hides #7 / #9 sets.

So, I'm in the market to get some edgers and I'm wondering whose edger reigns supreme. I've been able to try the Ron's out in person, but I've not tried the Barry King edgers. Also, are there any other companies out there that make high quality edgers that I should consider?

I was just going to take one of my Tina blades, which I made a mess of, and cut off the existing "blade" portion, then regrind. It's my understanding that as long as I'm careful about not heating the steel up too much then the temper won't change. The Tina blade is made out of high speed steel. I'm wondering if hand shaping with files and such is feasible with that kind of steel.

Hello, I have a Tina knife that is similar in concept to the Blanchard L'indispensable knife. Anyways, the blades for these are relatively cheap and I wanted to do some experimenting with different knife grinds for leather working. Specifically, a single-bevel grind. Does anyone here have experience making small clicking knives like this and can advise me on the best ways to go about it. I'd really like to know what angles to use, how to measure them out on my stock, and what tools to use. I was thinking about using precision metal files and my waterstones. I don't have access to a grinder. Thanks for any and all help.