ArcherBen

Here's a holster I just finished for a customer. I recently bought an old CS Osborne tickler to use for my molding and really like the results. In addition to that I also tried out my new Angelus dyes and acrylic finish on this holster. From what I have seen thus far, I really think the Angelus dyes penetrate deeper than the Feibings while producing a more true color. I think I might be done buying Feibings dyes. Specs: Gun: Springfield XD40SC Leather: 7-8 oz Mouthband Dye: Fiebings Medium Brown over Fiebings Lt Brown Body Dye: Angelus Cordovan Top Coat: Angelus Acrylic

I'm using 7-8 oz leather, but I do not know the source of it. I get it from the local leather shop and when I asked the owner for the source, he told me he couldn't remember. I'll have to ask him again. Regardless of source, I can tell that it is very good stuff. I would really like to try some W&C also and even mentioned it to my supplier. For what it's worth he told me that he used to use nothing but W&C, but that this stuff is even better. As far as boning tools, I use a plastic bone folder, then handle end of some of my hand tools, knitting and crochet needles (got that idea from another post here), and an old Osborne tickler (yet to actually try it out but I'm looking forward to it). For the molding inside the trigger guard I use the back side of my hole punch. It's about 1/2" in diameter and works really well inside the trigger guard.

I've noticed the same thing here in the Utah dessert about the dye drying really fast. That's good to hear about the wax finish. I should be finishing up a holster in the next couple of days and I think I'll try the new Angelus dyes and wax or acryllic topcoat on it. Like you, I have been puting a light coat of neatsfoot oil on my holsters haven't experienced any limp holster issues either. Thanks again for all the information.

Thanks for the compliments, but I should clarify. I think this is the ninth holster I've built, but only the 3rd one that I have built for a customer. I agree about molding behind the trigger. I think what your seeing in the picture is where the holster is molded to the shape of the gun at the rear of the trigger guard, but I did not do any serious boning behind the trigger.

Woolfe, That is a great looking holster. I love the color. May I ask what brand and color of dye you are using to achieve that color?

I finished this one for a customer a couple of days ago. This is the third piece that I have sold. I've really been enjoying this new habbit, uh i mean hobby I've fallen into, and it's kinda nice to start recouping some of my costs. None of my other hobbies have been able to financially support themselves. Specs: Leather: 7-8 oz Dye: Fiebings Chocolate Topcoat: Resolene Cant: 22 degrees Both dye and topcoat were applied with an airbrush. All comments, critique, and suggestions are welcome.

Peter, thanks a bunch for all of the information. I played around with the new dyes for about half an hour last night with a dauber and I'll try to play with the airbrush this weekend. I only received three colors (Cordovan, Honey, & Mahogany), so I think I'm gonna have to get some more coming to get just what I want. A couple more questions quick questions... How long do you let your first coat dry before applying the second coat? Also, have you seen any issues with the leather softening up fter the application of the shoe wax, or does the holster continue to hold it's shape well?

Wow, that sounds really impressive and exactly what I'm looking for. I can't wait to try it out on a couple test pieces. Thanks for the information.

Peter, When spraying the Angelus dyes do you find that you are getting good penetration into the leather so as to avoid potential scratching/rubbing through the dye? I've been spraying Feibings spirit dyes and find that when sprayed I do not get great depth penetrationg. I just had some Angelus samples show up today and I'm really looking forward to giving them a shot. Also, do you cut they dye or do you shoot it at full strength?

I just wore the pancake holster that I just finished a couple of days ago for the first time for about five hours last night. I canted it about 24 degrees and have about the same feelings as you concerning the cant. For me personally, it is an awkward draw. However, it rides on the hip and conceals very well. I'm just starting to build a small informal customer base, so we'll see what they ask for as far as cant goes.

Thanks for the comments. Twosons, I really dig the chocolate also. I think the red tint that it has goes well with the contrasting black. If you like the chocolate I would recommend playing around with cordovan also. I've only done one so far in cordovan, but I really liked the color I got out it. As far as molding tools, I most commonly use a plastic boning folder and the non painting end of a paint brush. I really want to get a stainless steel ball point modeling tool to replace the paint brush though. I seem to break a paint brush on about every other holster I build.

Here's a couple of holster I've wrapped up recently. Gun: Springfield XD9 Leather: 8-9 oz Shoulder Dye: Feibings Chocolate Edge Dye: Feibings Black Topcoat: Feibings Resolene Trim: Black Sharkskin Gun: Springfield XD9SC Leather: 8-9 oz Shoulder Dye: Feibings Chocolate Edge Dye: Feibings Black Topcoat: Feibings Resolene Trim: Black Sharkskin All comments, suggestions, and/or critique welcome.

Brinyar, That belt loop looks like it has potential to work out really well. I was going to abondon that style of belt loop and go back to my original, but now you've got me thinking about giving it another try. Does it pull the slide of the gun into your body nice and tight, or does it kinda leave it hanging out there? I guess what I'm really asking, would you do it again?

Very nice. I really like what you've done with the tunnel loop. I just dyed a holster this morning with a similar design on the tunnel loop, but I like how you've wrapped it around to the front side of the holster. I didn't do that on mine and I don't know that it's going to work out too well.

I've been wondering the same thing. Hopefully somebody that has used these will chime in.

Thanks for all the comments. Rusty, I did sew through the stingray. There were a couple of times that I hit one of the bony parts squarely on the top of it, but for the most part it wasn't too difficult. Each bump/bone is very hard, but between them is actually quite soft.

I tried looking for some 3M 90 like you had suggested but I couldn't find any, so I ended up using the Duro all-purpose adhesive that CitizenKate had suggested. If I were to build this again I would order some thread in that matches the color of the stingray. I tried finding some locally, but couldn't find any heavy enough for what I wanted to do. I'm still pretty new at stitching with an awl also, so I figured the black on black would help hide any stitching flaws I might have ended up with also.

I just completed a checkbook cover that I made for my fiance for Valentines Day. It is made out of black sharkskin and with an apple green stingray inlay. The choice of the apple green is two-fold: 1. It is her favorite color. 2. Black, white, and green are our wedding colors. A big thanks to all those who responded to my questions in other threads and PMs concerning wallet construction, as well as the pinned tutorial by Kevin King on wallet binding. All suggestions, comments, and critique are welcome and appreciated.

I stitch the throat band and tunnel loop before the leather is folded over on itself. Then I glue and mold the holster before stitching the main body. Once the holster is molded, I then stitch the main body. This allows me to get my stitch lines nice and tight to the gun.

I just finished up another holster. This one is a two tone Avenger style. Here's the specs: Leather: 7-8 oz Throat Band Dye: Fiebings Medium Brown over top of Fiebings Light Brown Main Body Dye: Fiebings Cordovan Top Coat: Resolene I also recently finished a mag pouch. Details: Leather: 7-8 oz Dye: Fiebings Chocolate Top Coat: Resolene All dyes and top coats were applied via airbrush. All comments/suggestions/critique welcome.

A big thanks to everybody for the suggestions. I tried looking for some 3M 90, but couldn't find any so I ended up using the Duro all-purpose adhesive and it worked out great!

Okay, I've got another question. I've found a piece of fabric that I think will go well with the checkbook cover that I'm building. I would like to use it as the liner against the backside of the sharkskin. What is the best way to attach the fabric (it's fairly thin) to the sharkskin? I was planning on using WeldWood contact cement, but after applying it to the back fabric I noticed that it was penetrating clear through the fabric and I'm concerned about this causing problems. Input?

I'm going to start playing around with some sharkskin for the reinforced mouth bands on my holsters. My question is should the exotic leather be laminated to a piece of veg tan cowhide to produce the proper stiffness for a mouthband, or should I use just the exotic leather? Also, my sharkskin is black processed leather. Should I apply a topcoat over this like I would a piece of veg tan cowhide that I dye myself, or just leave it as is?

Thanks for the reply Kate. It's the advice and information from all of you experts here that has sped up my learning curve so much.

Thanks for the advice. That's the way I'm leaning at this point after taking another look at a test piece that I did this morning to figure out the edge binding. After seeing how thick it will be with the shark body, pig liner, pig lined pockets, and goat skin binding, I've decided it will be thick enough and hopefully stiff enough as well.