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mike02130

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Posts posted by mike02130


  1. 1 hour ago, Paulin631 said:

    Ill respond to my own post. I took the plunge. Bought a complete setup, servo motor and controls under $800 shipped on Ebay. Identical in every way to my friends techsew except for the clear plastic guard on the side. Even came with an extra round file and oiler. 

    Save up your leather scraps for testing.  Those machines get pretty damn hungry.


  2. On 2/18/2024 at 1:02 PM, SUP said:

    Why is Ritza thread considered one of the best?

    I've never heard that one before except from the young kids that just started out, recently.  It has its purposes such as for sheaths, holsters and the like.  It's a bit thick for more refined work.  Vinymo and Meisi Xiange are pretty much the standard for higher-end work.  


  3. It's called a "filleteuse".  It will put a decorative crease and is also used for smoothing edge paint.  It will not burnish chrome tan leather, you'll need to use edge paint to finish the edge.It will not make a creased fold in leather.  Some popular tips are, FN2 for creasing and SO5 for smoothing edge paint.  I recommend Uniter's edge paint.  


  4. I don't think you need to go so fancy for the work you want to do.  You'll be using softer leather which is turnable and "round dent" irons are what are generally used. I suggest Wuta irons.  They're inexpensive, sharp, and the teeth are replaceable.  The smaller the size, the tighter the seam.

    https://www.amazon.com/WUTA-Removable-Stitching-Professional-Generation/dp/B0B4C35HWD/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2NZ629BROW6HC&keywords=wuta%2Bstitching%2Bchisel&qid=1703644653&sprefix=wuta%2B%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-2&th=1

     


  5. 4 hours ago, ToddW said:

    All they have thats not sold out is the5x2.5mm Oblong.. I am making a band for my 45mm Apple watch  Series 7.. this going to be to big?

    I don't know.  You could just use a single punch.  Use a wing divider set at half the width of the strap and mark your holes.  Better yet, make a template out of some card stock.


  6. 24 minutes ago, ToddW said:

    whats a good punch tool for the holes on the watch band.. they are tiny and not sure what size is best.  I think I saw some with 5 of them but they were oval..

    https://www.artisanleathersupply.com/collections/all-tools-1/products/watch-strap-punch

    On 5/1/2023 at 11:57 PM, ToddW said:

    what are folks using for inside padding on the bands?  some are flat and some are padded..

    Veg tan leather for padding.  You can shape it how you want.


  7. 16 minutes ago, frankly said:

    I was under the impression that Euro style pricking irons + awl left a finer opening than using stitching irons that punch all the way through. Based on what you know, am I misunderstanding? This is the primary reason I looked at the traditional pricking irons like Blanchard/Amy Roke rather than the Japanese style diamond chisels.

    I may be misclassifying "medium goods" the pattern I am working on for one of my first projects is using 8oz leather and panels of 27"x17"x17" triangle cut leather. I was planning on 3.85mm irons for this project and others of similar size. What do you think?

    As far as hole size, I've never experimented so I won't bet big money on it but I believe they're the same.  But that may be the case with thicker leathers(?).  The newer irons are hybrids and thin.  No bigger than the awl you would use with the Blanchard's.  Keep in mind, the Blanchard's are for pricking only, the euros may be used for pricking and going all the way through.  Yes, the 3.85s will be good for that size.  If you had 4mm ones, it makes it easier to draw patterns by dividing or multiplying distances by a whole number rather than 3.85.


  8. 2 hours ago, frankly said:
    Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 02 Pricking Iron
    Blanchard #7 (3.85mm) - 05 Pricking Iron
    Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 02 Pricking Iron
    Blanchard #10 (2.7mm) - 05 Pricking Iron
    Blanchard Scratch Compass No 8
    Palosanto Edge Beveler Set (0.4mm - 1.5mm)
    Jerome David 2mm awl
    Jerome David 2.5mm awl
    C.S. Osborne Scratch Awl 2pack
    Barry King  24oz Tapered Maul
    Alvin 24"x36" Cutting Mat
    SDI Utility Knife
    SDI Replacement Blades (100ct)
    Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 8"x12"
    Vinca Carpenter L Frame Steel Square 16"x24"
    Barge Cement
    Glue Applicator / Spreader
    Wutu Edge Burnisher / Slicker
    John James Saddlers Harness Needles

    I'd say that you're putting the cart before the horse--especially if you've never made anything yet.  Blanchard's are a bit old fashioned and they are "pricking irons" and not as good as they used to be.  They are used to prick, or mark the stitching holes which need to be followed up with an awl to complete the hole.  Now days, irons are a hybrid design where as they mark and punch the holes all in one shot.  With thicker leather you may also need an awl to finish the hole.  I don't know if there's any agreed upon nomenclature regarding irons/chisels but here's my short take on them.  "Stitching chisels" or better known as Japanese diamond chisels are diamond shape and make a larger diamond shaped hole than the typical "French stitching irons", which are thinner with flat teeth set at a 45 degree angle.  The latter are most commonly used for finer leather goods and thinner threads.  Both of these types are used to make the holes through the leather.  I like and own KS Blades' irons.  Sinabroks, Crimson Hides and Kevin Lee are some good brands to look at.  I've heard good things about the Rocky Mountain ones.  I use 2.7s for watch straps, 3.0 for wallets and card holders and 3.38s for purses.  For the occasional large bag I'll use 3.85s.  You say you want to make "medium sized goods" so the 3.85s may be right for you.  If you're going to make wallets, too, then maybe the 3.38s would be a better choice for both goods(?).   Personally I dig nice tools and have a hole in my wallet to prove it.  I wasted money in the beginning buying crap I thought I needed but never used.  Pull back on the reins and figure things out before you go broke.

    Palosanto makes fine edge bevelers but so does Barry King and Ron's tools.  For medium goods you most likely only need one--maybe 2 rather than a set of 4.  A Barry King 24oz tapered maul is an excellent choice.  Match the awl size to the irons.  I use a Palosanto flat awl.  Alvin makes a damn good cutting mat.  You could go with Weldwood contact cement rather than Barge, it's cheaper and sold at any hardware store.  John James 004 needles work well.  For a few bucks you can make your own stitching pony.

    My recommendation first-off is to buy an inexpensive set of diamond chisels, a wing divider and cheap mallet, a utility knife and glue and needles and thread.  Get some leather and make something first before investing in fancy tools.  The Amazon kits are tempting but I think there's just too much filler crap in them that you may never use.  The first thing you need to learn is how to  saddle stitch using your new pony that you made yourself.  Good luck, have fun and spend wisely.

     


  9. "Poly Stripe" is just a piece of polyester material with a stripe.  It is thin material.  You could use that, nylon, Tyvek or silk or any other material.  It's used on the T-pockets to keep the wallet thin.  You could just eliminate the material and make the T-pockets out of leather.  


  10. A lot of people who have used Fil au Chinois thread have complained about the quality going down and a large number of them have switched to Meisi Superfine for it's better quality control.  And then there's Meisi Xiange which is a polyester thread that's gaining in popularity because the colors look like those of linen thread.  I've used Meisi Xiange but I prefer Vinymo MBT.

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