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Henry

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Everything posted by Henry

  1. For those interested in this machine, here is a manual for the Junker & Ruh and the Pedersen machine in 'pdf' format printable to 8 1/2 x 11. If this upload/download doesn't work for some reason just Email me and I can send you a copy via Email Any questions just ask. Thanks, Henry Veenhoven Creative Leatherworks Toronto, Ontario, Canada 416-231-1870 Email me here! Junker___Ruh_Manual.PDF Junker___Ruh_Manual.PDF
  2. Ian, Nice work and glad to hear you like your Aerostitch so much; like I said it is a misunderstood machine and the speed control is the best thing about it. No electric machine lets you go from one stitch at a time to full speed by just truning a dial. At least none that I am aware of. That and their prompt friendly service. As to the compressor noise, you do know you can stick it quite far away in another room and just run a longer hose, right? I have the compressor in the garage and the sewing machine in the basement. So I don't hear a thing. There is no loss of power no matter how long the hose is: an unknown fact to me before I got the machine. Henry, the biggest issue I've had was the noise from the compressor, but not deal breaker, that's for sure. I did have to send it back for some work since my local industrial sewing machine place couldn't work on it. But, those issues are minor. Compared to the price of other harness stitchers, this was a steal and it does everything I've ever needed it to, from a fine show harness to many sets of saddlebags. The ability to slow it way down lets me sew very intricate inlays and close edge stitching withour the fear of sewing out of the groove. So, yes, I can certainly recomment it to anyone you send my way. NOTE TO ROB MCJEEP: This is the machine you want for saddlebags rather than the machine in the original post - it will sew 3/4 inch, no problem. Note to Rob McJeep, if you (or anyone else for that matter) are interested in one of these I have them available as well. I've added a couple of pictures for your reference/info. Thanks, Henry Veenhoven 416-231-1870 Email me here!
  3. Ed, If you can send me or post a detailed picture of the corner that is giving you problems I could always do a mock-up and send you back a picture. It sounds like it is certainly thinner than 1/2 an inch. The beauty of the layout of this machine is that you can put the needle tip into the leather and then with your hand lift the foot and rotate the work. Then after you let the foot down with the work in the new position you can continue pushing the needle through the work in the new direction. Similar to doing a corner on a bag with a cylinder machine where you would likely be grabbing the wheel and walking the needle around the corner before continuing on the next straightaway. I guess this is where making a little mpeg type movie would really show off best what I am trying to describe with words. Can you post something like that here. I have only just joined this site so I am not aware of all the site's potential. I'll see if I can come up with a little clip of some sort but please be patient for that. Thanks, Henry Toronto, Canada 416-231-1870
  4. Hi Henry, What would you say is the thickest that the J&R can stitch? Can it do 1/2"? I never knew such a machine existed and am now very interested. Thanks, Ed Ed, I am not sure about 1/2" thick. The leather used in the pictures is two layers of 8-10oz. bridal leather. I think it could to a third layer but doubt if it could do 4 layers. I think there would be too great a chance of the foot not being able to hold it securely and then the needle would push the work out from under the foot as the lever is pulled forward. What type of work/project do you have in mind that would use such thick leather for such a machine? Without knowing the answer to that question I suspect a cylinder machine might be better suited for your application. Cheers, Henry
  5. Tony, you are right these machines are identical to Pedersen machines. I think these came first and then I suspect Pedersen resurrected them, perhaps after WWII. Greybeard, I am selling these Junker and Ruh machines for $650.00(US) a piece. Quite reasonable considering their unique ability as no machine exists that can sew like they can and only weigh 20lbs!!! Ian, glad to hear from you and that you are still enjoying your Tippmann Aerostitch machine. They are great machines but not well understood for some reason. There seems to be a real preoccupation on this site with Chinese machines for some reason. The Tippmann Aerostitch machine was made in the US and has the best customer support available from anyone as all parts were also US made. As you know their best feature is that they don’t need a separate motor and has a fully adjustable speed range without any loss of torque to drive the needle into the work. If anyone asks about them I’ll send them your way for a reference if you don’t mind. I still have three of those for sale by the way.
  6. I have a few of these for sale. This is a Junker & Ruh shoe repair machine from Germany. They made a lot of them and they were the backbone of the shoe repair industry over there. I restore these and make them fully operational. The machine a is needle feed just like a Tippmann BOSS. The needle moves the work along for every stitch with the stitch length being adjustable. Just to give you an idea I can sew a pair of sandals in under 5 minutes and the stitching these machines make is extremely consistent and it looks very professional because of the thick thread. Its hard to tell that it isn't hand sewn. I personally used them to make sandals (hippy style) in the 1980's and made over 1000 pair at that time (used only 3 needles for all 1000). They are also good for doing case work especially if you want to sew around a very thin edge. I have seen some posting here where people are trying to sew around the edge of a formed case with a cylinder machine. As these are designed to hold onto the side of a shoe they are better at case work than any cylinder machine out there. Please refer to the pictures to see what I am talking about. I have needles available for these machines so that is no problem. The machine only weighs 20lbs by the way and the way it works is that you pull the lever toward you and back to complete one stitch cycle. Just like the Tippmann BOSS machine. If you have any questions feel free to Email me or call me at 416-231-1870 Thanks, Henry Veenhoven Toronto, Ontario Email me at:
  7. I am a dealer for Lucris here in Canada and yes you should buy them direct from Lucris as the shipping would be very prohibitive. They are also awkward to ship and most people mess that up. I have sold over 250 of these machines in North America and I can attest to them being great machines and very well made. Tell them Henry sent you to them. Cheers, Henry Creative Leatherworks Toronto, Canada 416-231-1870
  8. Hey, I like the buckle you used, can you tell me where I can buy some? Thanks, Henry
  9. I have an Adler 205-64 in mounted on a table for sale as well as a Tippmann Aerostitch machine. Both are in mint condition. I can Email pictures to anyone who is interested as I don't have the pictures on this computer. Both are for sale for $2500.00; each that is. The Adler can comfortably sew 1/2" and the Tippmann can easily sew 3/4". The Tippmann, for those that don't know, runs on a compressor but has the advantage of being able to sew very slow with the full power behind the needle, unlike an electric machine where you are basically letting the clutch slip when you want to go slow. Both machines are also needle feed machines so you have full control of the work at all times unlike some of the models that feed the work with a bottom feed dog only. The machines are located in Toronto, Canada but I have shipped machines all over the continent so that is not a problem. Feel free to Email me or call me at 416-231-1870. Thanks, Henry Veenhoven Creative Leatherworks Toronto, Ontario Email me here!
  10. Stephen, I had a look at your website and this machine would only disappoint you. It is designed for tugs/traces for heavy horse harness to pull a wagon/coach. It likes to sew very thick leather 1/2" ++. And its biggest weakness is that it moves the material by grabbing it between the bottom feed dog and the foot so it is not a positive system. Although it looks like a Pearson no. 6 it is far from it. A Pearson can sew a wide range of leather at different thicknesses and it is a needle feed machine so you always have full control of the leather as it is moving through the machine, unlike the Landis no. 1. A Pearson is second only to a needle and awl machine for laying down a nice looking stitch. In case you are interested in a cylinder machine I have a couple of machines that would be better suited for what you are sewing: an Adler 205-64 and a Tippmann Aerostitch machine. Both are modern needle feed machines so parts are available and they will sew the type of work you are sewing much better than a Landis ever could, especially pouches with gussets like you make. Feel free to Call or Email me if interested. By the way I am in Etobicoke so it is just a short drive away so no shipping charges. Thanks, Henry Veenhoven Creative Leatherworks 416-231-1870 Email address
  11. Contact Lucris.com, and they will make you a die.They're in Brisbane so that should be better than the US. And the dies are great. Cheers, Henry Veenhoven
  12. Karl, For your Pearson use a really light oil, like a mineral oil. Don't use an automotive oil with additives or anything or dust and the like will stick to it. Also if you are stripping it down to bare metal be careful with the oil as the cast iron absorbs it and it might make it harder to repaint after. All the little holes you see on the machine are for oil. Some of them lead to raceways along the actual shafts and some other parts. Most of these get gummed up from the use of wax in the past or poor quality oil on older machines, hence they don't turn over very well. Better just to use as little oil as possible to take the parts apart and then clean them up thoroughly with a light wire brush. Then just put a few drops of light oil on them to put them back together. That's how I do it anyway. Hope that helps. This is now my second reply so I hope I am doing it right. Cheers, Henry Veenhoven 416-231-1870 Toronto, Canada
  13. Karl, This is my first post and reply to this bulletin board so if I do something wrong please be patient. I just stumbled on this posting of yours by accident a couple of days ago when I did a search for Pearson no. 6. I might be able to help you as I restore these machines and have had a number of new parts made for them: mainly the parts that get worn by the thread moving through the machine. I actually supply someone else here in Canada with their parts. The parts are made in Taiwan and they are second to none. I also have bobbins and feet for the machine. In the new year I may have new shuttles as well. I also may have a spare 'ornate' flywheel. I just have to check if I need the wooden handle from it. I may also have a new bobbin winder for it. It is a copy of another American machine but will do the trick.I just moved all my machines from a storage locker to a workshop so I could organize myself so it may take a little while to figure out what spares I actually have for some of the more rare items/parts. The new parts I have lots of. Just to let you know I have restored 4 of these machines already and have a bunch more to do. I an also sell you a A4 copy of the manual. I even have French Pearsons which I am sure many readers did not even know existed. They have only one difference from the English ones aside from the words Paris France on the flywheel. I will post this and hopefully with success so feel free to contact me if you have any requests/questions. Cheers, Henry Veenhoven Creative Leatherworks Toronto, Canada Email Address: Pearson no. 6 info 416-231-1870 Visit My Website
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