woolfe

Congrats!!!

I'm convinced to give it another go. Thanks a bunch!!!

I guess with the humidity in Florida I'm a little more nervous about it. I'll have to test it some more.

I tested it out one time. I rinsed it in baking soda water to help neutralize it and in fresh water. I then let it dry for a while before wet molding. During wet molding it was on the gun for about 1 hour tops, I did not time it. Thank god I used a cheap gun and I know how to reblue a gun. I could not believe how badly it started to surface rust and strip the blueing. I never have trouble with Fiebings dyed leather and wet molding. I guess I'll have to try letting it completely dry out and then resoaking before wet molding.

How many people use this technique for holsters? How many of you using this technique use it on your own personal holsters? "Chrome tanned leather- Chromium salts used in the tanning process can and do react with the bluing agents used on firearms, causing the appearance of surface rust. These should be avoided." I pulled this out of the John Henry holster making sticky... I don't see how vinegaroon can be considered any safer. Leather tends to trap moisture and if reagents are present that accelerate the oxidation process how is this safe? I've been playing with vinegaroon and I absolutly love how easy and cheap it is to use. I do stain my belt loops with it. But, I can't seem to talk my self into using on the actual holster after seeing how fast the blueing will be stripped off a gun if the holster happens to get wet, say someone gets caught in the rain. I would love to hear your arguements as to why its safe to use. Its definatly easier, and I would love to feel good about using it myself.

Need a little help understanding the Smith & Wesson line. I ordered this Smith & Wesson J frame so I would be able to make some of the popular gun holsters. I'm not sure but it looks like I can only make the model 36 for the 1 7/8" barrel smith & Wesson products. Is it possible to just dremel the barrel and put in a spacer so i could also make the model 36 with a 3" barrel? Or is there a better way to go about it? Also, can i use this to make any other Smith & Wesson holsters. Thank you for your time!!!

Thanks! its Fiebings Lt brown airbrushed.

Here it is. I'm already working on an improved design. Although this gets the job done. As TwinOaks said aluminum may be a good material to use. It only takes a couple minutes to cool with the wooden jig. Since I'm new to this I kinda like having a little extra time to manipulate the kydex. But, once I get it down it would be nice for it to cool faster. I do plan on making J hooks, they just are not at the top of my list atm. I'm focusing on setting up my product line, and website atm. I really only care about making holsters, I'm mainly offering the clips as replacments for my holsters. Lets see what you guys are using to form your kydex ?!?!?

I don't have pictures of it. Its a simple little box looking thing made from paint mixing sticks you get at Lowes or Homedepot for free. To be honest it looks like crap since its just a prototype I would be embarrassed to post photos lol. I basically cut/sanded pieces of wood to the required dimensions (belt size, the thumb catch on the clip, etc). You also need to make a track the desired width of your clips to hold them straight while they cool. The track needs to be on the belt spacer block and thumb catch to ensure everything is straight. Also, make sure the track sides are slightly lower then the kydex when sitting in the track. This way you are able to apply pressure to the kydex and ensure it cools while lying flat against your jig.

Here is my favorite. Made from a cheap paint brush.

How do you make your Kydex clips? I managed to build a rig out of wood to help mold mine. I just can't help but think there is a better way. Here is one of my creations.

Thanks!!!

I'm about to order some 1911 blue guns. I'm a little confused as to what would be needed to cover the most popular sizes. From what I can tell the Government, Commander, and Defender are the popular ones, but I can't seem to find them on blueguns.com listed that way. Can someone tell me if this is correct: Defender lengths/widths will work with blueguns Government lengths/widths blueguns Commander lengths/widths blueguns Thanks a bunch!!!!

Hi, I have a quick question. I've recently started doing leather working and I'm enjoying it so much I'm going to make a part time business out of it. My concern is for my dogs, I have 2 miniature shihtzus and a lab in the house. They seem to like chewing on the scraps that my new hobby produces. I'm using Vegetable tanned leather anyone know if there are any chemicals used in the tanning process that could be harmful to dogs? THanks!!!

Very informative. Thank you for sharing your experience. I would hate to have to remake a perfectly good holster, its nice to know there are options available.

ahh crap, Thank you very much for pointing that out. The foot print stamp was a generic stamp from tandy, I had no idea someone was already using it. Maybe I can file it down and alter it enough so it wont appear to be the same. I dunno, I'll think of something. Thank you very much, you prevented a huge future problem for me.

Mcmaster has them. here is a link. Black counter sunk washers hmm, it wont let me link to it.. but here is the part number 92918A135

Thanks for the nice comments!!! I posted some pictures in the IWB straps thread for you.

I used a longer screw then necessary in this picture to help show what I did. This is what I did, hope it helps. Do I need to put anything between the loop and the holster, like a washer, or something to help it grip better?

Thanks Lobo!!! you always give really good advice. I will check out eLeatherSupply, by cheap leather I ment it was the lower quality stuff. I cleaned out an old spray bottle and I'm going to give that a shot. I really appriciate you taking the time to help out!

3/4" 6-32 screw, #8 washers, a modified 6-32 T-nut, and black rubber hose from Autozone

I cut off a small piece of the wooden dowel. Drilled a small hole in the end and hammered in a piece of steel rod, also from homedepot. Then I took some files and grinded on the dowel as it was spinning on the dremel until it was in the shape I wanted.

Yep 2nd project. I didn't spend much time on the loops, yeah they are rough, thanks for pointing that out! The holster edges are allot better. I made an edge burnishing thing for my dremel tool out of an oak dowel from homedepot.

I dunno, but I will be following this thread. I can only make 3 types of holsters atm, half price on replicas would be nice!

Here are the Pictures, THanks for the help!! My holster, Resolene 50/50 dip