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flathat4life

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Posts posted by flathat4life

  1. Posted · Edited by flathat4life · Report reply

    Rawhider,

    First of all, i want to say thanks for taking time to make this tutorial.

    Now second, i have some questions....

    - when and how in the process did you put the hole in the bottom of the honda where the rope comes through?.... did you punch it or drill it out?????????

    - when your done lacing, how do you route the strings to the rope hole where you then brade down the shaft of the drill bit?... im gessing that they are ran through the inside of the fold and then poked through the rope hole... am i right...

    if possible could you maybe post a few more pics of the honda from different angles.... I know im asking for A LOT but i would realy appreciate eny help you can give me...

    the only rawhide i have right now is just a hair thin so i'm going to make a practice honda for one of my little chicken ropes that my youngest brother ropes the dumy with... when i get some thicker stuff then i make a bigger one for regular use on a real rope.( hope i can get it tomarrow at the local tack shop)

    I have absolutly "0" exsperiance with rawhide and dont have a clue what im doing or if im doing it right... i took the little peice i had and put it in a buckaet of Hot water for about 45mins-1 hour.. when i took it out it was Realy soft lightened in color... i gessing it dont need to be that wet... am i suppost to work it a little dryer when it sorta has some stifness to it like case tooling leather but yet has some limberness...

    sorry for my ignorance and thanks for eny help you give!

    Jed

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Well thanks guys for all the help......

    I've e-mailed Jeff from Grey Gohst Grafics and got all the details worked out..Now i just have to call him tomarrow when hes backin the shop to get him paid... hope to have the stamp by the end of this week.

    i prettymuch stuck with my original plan... after a couple of years i'll order a higher grade steel stamp with my city and state in it..

    I appreciate all the input...

    Jed

  3. Posted · Report reply

    So, I finally received the black antique and acrylic copper paint. This picture frame I pounded out just for this experiment, dyed dark brown, then applied copper paint with a sponge, just as I would apply a resist, just hitting the high points. I let it dry for a while and tried the black acrylic antique. It pretty much covered the copper. It dries real fast and once dry, it don't come off. So, I reapplied the copper as before and this is the results.

    Marcos_color_002.jpg

    Not Bad!... im kinda a natural color sort of guy but that looks pretty good.. i realy like how the copper ended up on the antique brown..... nice choice of picture to =)

    Jed

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I lived in star for ten years... when i was 11 we moved about two hours away but still went back and visited saddle shop every time we passed threw... last i knew, Rick moved his stuff to the house(which is only like a mile down the road)... i belive a incident took place( with out going into details) which forced him to stay at home for a few months.. Since then, there hasn't been near as much of his work on display as their used to be but occasionally you'll find a saddle or two in the show case area.

    I to find his work very creative and inspirering... exspecially the scrolls and old timer ranch scenes that he's carved on a some of his saddles. i wish Rick would get a web site going again or at least some kind of enternet pic album dedicated to his work (besides the TCAA page)... its to bad he dosn't make a video like Dale Harwood did..............I'd give about anything to see him run that swivle knife!!!

    Jed

  6. Posted · Edited by flathat4life · Report reply

    Nice Job... exspecialy for your first one!

    ...... its hard to tell from the pics since theres nothing to scale to but your eye might be a little small after adding the burner and rope knot.... If thats a philps #2 screw driver (or maybe its a #3 :dunno: ), then my consern would be getting it slipped on a "3/8ths" or "3/8ths scant" rope...........

    otherwise, lace your burner on ther, tie her on a 60ft'r, and Happy Rope'n :banana: !

    Jed

  7. Posted · Report reply

    thanks for the input , The tree is one of Rod and Denise Nikkel's, The hardware is Harwood. I really like the 550 rings. from a users standpoint I pesonally like the rings better than the 5053 plates. I come to this conclussion from many years in the saddle and hundreds of horses. It seems like the plates are more popular with the saddlemakers but my gear is built with my perspective as a working cowboy. ( mabey to my detrement? who knows ) I also like how the rings give me a little extra depth without cousing me to make my riggin plate line to straight down. I like to try and mirror the skirt line with my riggen plate. Just my thoughts. again thatnks for the comments. I am suprised however i havent got any more input i would really like some oppinions on my lines from the pros.

    Fpotter,

    thanks for the reply back...

    I completly agree with you stand point when it comes to the rigging.. The biggest problem i have with most peoples flat plate rigs is that they cant get there lines to look good... Its hard to put the rigging where it needs to be with out making the saddle appear heavy on the front end or out of balance... i will probley end up useing the 550 rings on my first saddle sence i tend to like the results of them better... As you have said, "the rings alow you to get alittle deeper with out causing the rigging plate line to get to strait; also alowing you to match it up with the skirt a little better and achives beter lines with out compromising its fuctionality and placment on the horse."

    i appreciate you being willing to help out a young buck... great look'n saddle.

    ~thanks~

    Jed

  8. Posted · Report reply

    FPotter,

    great job on your saddle.. the lines are pretty good and looks like you did a good job keeing your basket stamp strait.. i realy like your horn job and hope to achive the same look on my first saddle.. if you dont mind me asking, where did you get your tree and what are its specs...

    ~thanks~

    Jed

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Jed,

    I think what you have in mind is pretty good thinking. A simple stamp that conveys the information you want is best. I would agree with you on leaving off the rope border. That leaves you the option of using any border you want later or using no border. The one thing you didn't say was on the stamp was your city and state. You have no idea where your stuff will go but if they have your name and location they can find you.

    I really like the name Flat Hat Saddlery. Conveys to me a buckaroo origin. I've never heard of another one.

    The magnesium stamps are the least expensive and they actually work pretty well. I have a couple of these and they work fine, however I dropped one of them once and slightly damaged the border around the stamp. That is the disadvantage of magnesium. It is a soft metal with a low melting temp., which is why they can make a stamp as inexpensively as they do.

    The delrin stamps like Grey Ghost makes are next and seem to produce a very nice stamp also.

    The most expensive stamps are the steel ones. These are like the one from Harper Mfg.

    I have a couple of these. One I had tempered to be able to strike it into sterling silver as well as leather. It works great. They are excellent stamps and very tough.

    Hope that helps,

    Troy West

    Thanks Troy,

    you have clarifyed alot......

    I would like to put my city and state on the stamp but i'm not permantly liveing somwhere yet... my parents have just moved up here to Spirit Lake, Id (Northern pan handle) from the southern part of the state where we were about 30min. from the nevada and oregon border...i cant stand these trees and plan on moving back to the buckaroo country after finishing high school but i dont kow where yet. otherwise i would put flat hat saddlery in the top, brand inthe middle, and my location on the bottom..... maybe i'll just have another stamp made after things are a little more concreted a few years down the road......

    Jed

  12. Posted · Report reply

    First of all i would like to thank you guys for posting on the last topic i started about Barry King and JW products... every bit of your input was helpful and i LOVE my new tools!

    Now.. back to the subjest... i was asked by a good friend of mine to build a bible case for him... he asked that i would also put my name on it... i informed him that i dont have a maker stamp yet (since im just starting out and have other priority's on the list)... After finishing the product and just before oiling it, the individual approched me and offfered to trade the cost of the new stamp for the bible cover... i turned him down for the fact that i thought he would be getting the short end of the stick, plus the guy has done so much lately to help me out and bless me that i realy wanted to just give it to him... He then basicly stated that he was buying me the stamp no matter what and that he wanted it on the back of his bible cover.. now i need to get one ordered so i can wrap this project up and get it to him....

    Which leaves me with the following questions:

    where did you guys get your stamp?.. how much did it cost?.. and how do you like it?....

    I'm looking at doing a basic double lined oval border with my name on the top ( Jed Rice ), my brand in the middle, and "Flat Hat Saddlery"on the bottom of the stamp.... This is just what i have in my head but im open to what you guys suggest and what you think looks good.....

    i like the rope border but how dose it look in the middle of a basket stamped area? should i stick with the double line so i can either bevel, border, or use a small mull foot around the edge? what flows the best? Also, "Just to make sure", has enyone ever herd of a Flat hat saddlery or eny thing close to it... i think my idea is orginal but i just want to make sure ( dont want to copy someones name)..

    I looked into every Maker Stamp maker i could find on google... i've also seen a little talk about Grey Gost Graphics here on the forum... are his stamps good quality and how do they hold up.. im not familar with the material he use to make the stamp out of (maybee somone can fill me in)... He seems to be resonalbly price at around $80 includeing my custom brand as aposed to $180 or so for other brands of steel stamps... Whats the best bang for the buck.

    I'll mostly be using this stamp on mis. tack items, chinks, bible covers (ofcourse), and saddles(once i learn how to build them).

    im hoping to keep in my budget of say around $100 but dont want to compromise for quality...I want a good, deep, clear and easyly readable impression... it needs to hold up for years to come, exspecially since i have to grow into the name still (Flat Hat ""Saddlery"")...

    ~Thanks~

    Jed

  13. Posted · Report reply

    OK.... sorry its taking me so long to get back with you guys but my home internet has been down fo the last week and a half...

    I orderd a couple basket stamps, some border stamps, a swivle knife, and a #2 edger from barry and got them in about a week ago... Everything is absolutly AMAZING!... I love how deep and crisp both the borders and baskets tun out... His edge is edger is so easy to push and leaves a realy increadible edge... im still working with the swivle knife trying to get used to the quickness but italso is very smooth and easyto operate...

    I also ordered Wayne's 2lbs. taperd maul... Its the absolut "Perfect" weight and feel that i wanted to achive...it perfect for runing my baskets/borders and i just choke up on it to bevel or use other small stamps intell i can order a lighter maul from barry..

    Thanks again guys for all the help..

    Jed

  19. Posted · Report reply

    There are a couple more people you need to know about. Ron's Tool Co., www.ronstools.com make excellent edgers. Also Barry King and Bob Beard are both now producing edgers. The other name you need is Bob Douglas, 307/737-2222. He has his own of tools, so get his brochure, and he buys, reconditions and sells the old tools which are no longer made. He is one of the most knowledgable people I have ever met with regard to hand tools, knives, leather machines, etc. Before you make any decisions about hand tools...be sure to speak to Bob.

    Good Luck!

    Bob

    thanks hide pounder,

    i will look into those options, i'v looked into barrys edgers... i may endup going with his just to keep from paying shiping on another order.... i'v also seen the ron edgers on his site (a little more monny than barrys orJW's).... if i remember right i met a old guy that built saddles and he had a set....he owned about every brand of tools under the sun (wish i was closer to him because he could probly help me alot).. he liked them cuz their fast to sharpen w/ the rod..... i will give bob a call and talk to him.. sounds like he knows his stuff!

    thanks again,

    jed

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Flathat,

    Your did a real good job. Your fringe looks excellent. How did you cut it? It has been my expeience to oil tooled parts before they are sewn on, and to seal them on both the front and back side with neat lack or tan coat. Other wise the oil can leach or bleed into the chap leather.

    steve

    steve,

    thanks for the complement.. i cut my fring with a utility knife.. mainly because you can always replace the blades to get a razor edge(this plays a big factor in how crisp the fring looks when its cut)..... i normally oil with 2-3 "light cotes" of netsfeet oil and finish with tan cote to get a natural shean back in the leather.... then i slick my edge with t-gum from tandys.. after tooling, while the leather is still moist i edge everythin and rub the edge with damp canvis (thats mainly where you get a good edge from ..the t-gum is just to smooth out little frys on the edge caused when oiling)... i was in a hury to get these pair finished and i cut some corners i shouldn't have (plus i was out of oil enyway) .. otherwise normally i do oil before sewing... (it definately pays to take your time and do the job right )...........

    I'm still learning so just my two cents worth =)

    i'm interest to see how other people do things.. maybe some of you guys can fill me in ..... im completely self taught so i'v always had to figure things to teach myself and come up ideas....... i mostly do that by studying good quality gear i like made by top saddle makers...... i can always see what i want my end product to look like but somtimes i have trouble geting it to that point...its nice to descover others ideas and process of doing things..

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    thanks for the complements and opinions guys.... keep it coming.....

    jed

  21. Posted · Edited by flathat4life · Report reply

    heres my twist to apair of armitas i built for myself a few months ago. they're the traditional step-ins but with a tooled belt that buckles in the back..i slawtered a couple pairs before getting my pattern right.. i should have hunted somebody down that had a good set and tried to get a pattern that way. that would have saved all the trial and air pair i wrecked but i gess thats how i learned... i particularly like the way the fring lays when im in the saddle.... i should have put a little curve to the top so they were a little more form fiting but with a couple trips true the canal and wearing them all day i got them feeling beter..i didn't oil everything and slick my edges before the pics(i should have done it before glueing and sewing but o well)...the tooling in my opinion isn't that great and the top belt kinda turned into a train wreck... i took them into a guy to have sewn and he tried to race thrue them in some spots so thats why the stitch isn't consistant..... there just a economy grade cowhide but its good for chink/armitas and sure like how crisp the fring cuts and looks when they are new... this kind of leather also turns used looking fast and slicks of on the front side which some guys like the look of...

    a little ruff around the edges but only my 4th pair(including the ones i butchered)........................................... tell me what you think.

    ~thanks~

    amitas_1.jpg armitas_2.jpg

    armitas_3.jpg

    armitas_5.jpg [atachment=19138:armitas_6.jpg]

    armitas_4.jpg

    armitas_6.jpg

    post-8303-1230879898_thumb.jpg

    post-8303-1230880026_thumb.jpg

    post-8303-1230880253_thumb.jpg

    post-8303-1230880359_thumb.jpg

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    post-8303-1230880544_thumb.jpg

  22. Posted · Edited by flathat4life · Report reply

    Thanks again guys!!! you have no idea how much i appreciate all your help. Theres not alot of good saddle makers (or even leather workers for that matter) in my area that i can get help and advise like this from. Most guys i've come across (say at a trade show or somthing) just blow me off when i ask a little question about tools or how they did somthing. Some probly has to do with my age and i know that a guy cant give out all his secrets but i like how everyone on this forum is so willing to help others with their projects and shar their process of doing things....... just wanted to say how much i apreciate not only your guys exsperiance and exspertice in answering questions but also how respectful and humblely you all come across..... Its truely a blessing to have found this site and all its cool things to offer..... thanks to every body who makes this place what it is!

    I called Wayne Jueschke and e-mailed Bob Beard today for a catologe today and thy are on their way. it was realy neat to have one of wayne's kids( maybe his wife?) answer the phone... i apreciate the fact the somone with a well know name is still home based and runs family centered bissness.(as i understand barry and a number of other people in the trade are the same way).... kinda cool.

    i still have to get the catologs before i make my final decisions but here's my plan for the first set of upgrades.......

    - a couple basket stamps from barry (unless one of waynes realy strikes me)

    - a couple borders from barry

    - barrys swivle knife

    - Jeremiah watts edgers

    - "about" a 20-24oz. tapered head maul from wayne( for baskets/geos.)

    - 16 oz. tapperd head maul from barry ( smaller stamps)

    we'll see how much damage shiping doses. i may have to wait on barrys maul and some of the edgers. i probly should just buy one of JW's edgers for the first try enyway to make sure i like it before spending monney on all of them.( im sure i will completely satisfied though).

    thanks again for all you guys input... exspecially on those mauls, bruce... it helped having someone on my same mind level with sorta the same likes to explin the differance between makers.... Everyones opinions helped!

    im fixing to start a saddle as i stated before..... i been wanting to buy the Dale harwood DVD's... i'v herd that just seeing him run his tools is worth the monney in it self, not to mention how claer and layed out the instructions and examples are.... now that ive found this site maybe i can postpone that purchase a little (exspecially sence these tools will be carving ito my pigy bang) and buy a tree instead(although i would like to have those DVD's).... So i will definatly be asking more questions in the near future... mostly having to do wil ground seats, rigging mesureing, plus a little on the cantle and cap and wrap horn..... having lived in the heart of buckaroo country i'v had the chance to sit in and study alot of top quality wade saddles from tom makers.... i'm hopeing that if nothing else the lines and ground seat of my first saddle are desent(but im still going to try my best on tooling and edges)...one of my biggest pet-pees is a uncomfortable seat and bad lines......... with your guys help i should be able to do well on all aspects of this project =)

    I dont mean to go on and on but again i really appreciate everything.............. i'll post my thaughts on the tools when i get them in...(CANT WAIT)!!!!!

    ~Happy Trails~

  23. Posted · Report reply

    THANKS ALOT!! for your guys input on this. all your opinion have REALY helped so thanks.

    i realize now that im only like the one-hundredth person to ask these questions about barry king and JW tools but thanks for takeing the time to post your thought and helping me out... i realy appreciate it!

    ..... ok so i think i have pretty much much every thing figured out as far as what i plan on ordering but i need one more thing.... i would like to know what weight(pound or oz.) of the mauls you guys use and what you use them for... what little exsperiance i do have with mauls have been reaaly old ones that i couldn't pull weights off of.... thanks again-

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Here are a few more.

    ok i know this thred is old but i was woundering, dbarleather, what brand name and size of basket you are useing here.

    i am in the process of upgrading my stamps but im unfimilar with the sizes of these diffirent makers. i like the one you are useing here so if it aint to much trouble i would appreciate your help.

    -thanks-

  25. Posted · Edited by flathat4life · Report reply

    thanks hidepounder-

    i have thaught about doing somthing like that (maybe this summer=) i'm geting my driver licence this week so then i will be a little more mobile.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Is there any body else out there with a opinion? would like to hear from you!

    - thanks guys-

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