I agree about the overhand knot or whatever it may be more properly called. I'm new to sewing and wasn't sure whether to make the knots as I establish a sewing technique. Hell, it took me long enough to even figure out some are even using them. After a little experimentation, I found my stitches look nicer and more consistent with the knots. I get an even, down to up thread pattern on the face side (\\\\) with the corresponding opposite on the back (////). Plus, the knot should help hold the stitching in place better if a thread breaks -- at least in theory.
FWIW, I've been stitching as shown here: http://www.britishbl...-with-2-needles (I had to click on the "show" tabs above each picture to load them.) She seems to be using Z twist (left hand) thread.
I am not convinced that twist direction makes much, if any, practical difference in hand sewing for most makers of small items, though I see how it can. However, I have very little experience yet with this stuff, so for now I'll defer to the few who say right twist is best for a right hander. I'd rather err on the side of caution. Good linen thread isn't cheap, and one spool (about 1000 yards in 5 cord) will last me many years, perhaps even the rest of my life.
Whether thread twist becomes an issue due to the direction the knots are thrown or from building a twist gradually even without them due to the general mechanical-like repetitive consistency desired when hand stitching one awl hole at a time, I gather that twist can be an issue when sewing "old school" -- one awl poke at a time. Since I want to learn to sew that way, thread twist is a consideration to me.
For fellow newbies wondering how to determine a thread's twist by sight: Look at the thread held vertically. If the spirals go in the / direction, which resembles the middle of a Z, the thread is Z twist (left). If in the \ direction, as the middle part of an S, it is S (right).
How much tab/tail do you leave behind the needle when using linen thread? When attaching the needle, which part of the thread do you stab it through? Some poke the needle hrough the tail or loose end, others go through the working end.
I did a quick search on these brands of braided thread and didn't find any place selling them in the U.S. One (Ritza?) is made in plain waxed and waxed with silicone added. For hand sewing, is the silicone counterproductive (too slippery)? Do you apply hand wax (beeswax/rosin) to help "sticky" it up?
I gather that the ends can't be scraped down to taper. Why not?
You mentioned in a previous post having bad experience with early polyester thread, as well as some examples of the longevity of properly waxed linen (http://leatherworker...indpost&p=97256). I'm not a traditionalist, but I am somewhat hesitant to embrace new products and methods that don't have a track record. Newer is often, but not necessarily, better. Aluminum wiring in the 1970's. Ugh. Different types of plastics used for water piping in recent decades instead of copper, some of which have failed badly. Various newer drugs causing injuries and deaths. And on and on.
For hand sewing, I'm leaning strongly in favor of good quality linen. Sort of like going with copper water pipe instead of plastic. Not the cheapest , and likely not the ultimate solution, but time tested, proven and solid.
Still being damp behind the ears to all of this, I don't know what you mean by "waxed end." Can you elaborate?
I found Barbour 5 cord right hand thread in natural color (U.S. made) on ebay and bought a spool today. $56ish. The box shown indicates a "soft" finish vs. the "polished" sold at campbell-bosworth. I have been told that "soft" will better accept wax than "polished.". The seller has one left in case anyone else is interested.
Jay
