nylonRigging

This is just suggestion, and everybody different in their setups and their techniques. This just my technique that been using for long time setting up and binding. and just my opinio for your binding using Cylinder Bed and compound feed, with syncro-move with your feed movement. Don't be intimidated by cutting and shaping both Inner and Outer Feet to make things work , Also Cut/trim that push-stop plate that leads out from the binder throat that you pushing your material up against on the Feed. Your length of that push-plate really does not have to be run out past the needle plunge to do it job with you pushing material against it. Leaving it long, is just working against you on your final results . Also, Your outer-press foot . Your inner R-side toe. ( me ) I like to 'leave it there' . but trim it off and shape it . Your outer L-side toe, just leave or trim to suit the need. Rather than just using only the L-side toe and foot-Heel . Keeping a little of that R-side foot ( even small ) is to your advantage in press/hold down and feed of binding and material. Very Rarely do I ever keep the outer press-Foot that is sold to me with binder kit. I end-up making my own off generic stock Press Foot. And, your inner Foot. I like to trim/shorten and shape the toe of it also . Needs to end-up as tight as possible, and trimming the inner foot and shaping toe let's the binder in more tighter/closer . Also when your holding and feeding your material into the binder and sewing with cylinder bed, make habit of, Don't let it sag lower than the binder. I like to hold and feed material into, on a little higher angle than a flat level feed to binder. Surprising how even angle of material feed can change the binding tracking on the cylinder bed. -- Not same cylinder bed machine as yours, but here in this Pic. this just my technique . In the Pic. The needle is just coming 'out' of it's plunge and just on the rise. Where everything is at it's tightest in it's syncro-feed movement . You can see where the outer press-foot R-toe just shy of touching/meeting the Press-plate tip/ending. With the press-plate length cut just a tad past the needle . Binding system, all has to end-up tight and smooth, movement back and forth. - - -

Not a Tall extra high post, but the slight shim tilt forward modification to the sew head is more comfortable on sitting behind with eye-hand, and you dont find yourself leaning forward as much . - -

it is pretty cost effective, and common easy finding retail store, and I like the softer HDPE for punch, been using it for many years . HDPE is great and cheap for abusing for a backing when punching . But.. 'cutting' on HDPE surface, it takes a BAD beating . I was just at the supply warehouse yesterday picking up some more 4x8 sheets of ABS and HDPE, and while I was there was looking and pricing the Actalcopolymer sheets ( For Cutting ) not punching . If you ever are going to 'UpGrade' to a 100 x superior material for a 'cutting surface' board . Buy Acetal Copolymer ( Polyoxymethylene ) . Very Similar structure to Derlin, but it not Derlin and is a little cheaper in cost over Derlin. . OK, quick search . . here a simple vid. of what I am saying . the Vid. got A Lot of OP Jibber-Jabber knife talk . so I started into the Vid. 4: 17 minute . Cut Surface -

I tried blowing up the Pic. some to see. But still little hard for me to see exactly what you are talking about with a double-edge guild, on the Feed of that cylinder bed. A lot of Flat-Bed double needles come with a attachment slide plate, right in front of the Feed ( pic. below ) . I do have use that for securing different folders and such. I could just attach a 1" wide feed guild to that. I might end-up having to go that route . But I trying to keep it more visually clean for my eyes to follow pencil markings of where to hand guide the webbing on top the material as I laying down stitches. The 112/212 needle-feeds style machines keep the press foot really low also when stitching. They pendulum walk with the feed dogs. never high stepping like a Compound or a Drop-walk feed . So if there was both a L and R guide on both sides of the Presser Foot. It really never loos contact guiding 1"webbing under the 7/8" needle gauge Foot. - -

That good to know . I mulling it around in my head right now on doing a 7/8" gauge on an old 112 that is sitting not being used . Setting it up for stitching both edges of 1" webbing on a pattern I been doing . My personal quest/problem at this moment on the gauge setup is . On the 112/212 press feet . They offer Press Feet with a L-side and R-side edge guide, and that pretty standard ... BUT, What I really like to find is a Presser Foot with an ' edge guide on both sides ' so I can feed the strips webbing directly into/under Press foot . But most likely me getting double-edge guide is probably something that I am going to have to end-up myself Garage McGver'ing and soldering small thin strips of material to both sides of Foot for a double edge guide Foot . .

Any of the needle gauge sets for the mechanics of Needle-Feeds machines, like Singer 112/212 style feet and feed will go past farther than 1.5 inch wide. Real easy to set-up also. reasonable priced and easy to find. For newer machines I like the double-needle juki LH model in that foot style and feed. but I still got old singers to. example here .. offer up to .. 1 - 3/4" .

Shit gona happen if you are repetitiously doing same'o same'o every day, day after day . ( me ) working Real Tight Areas on occasion when hurrying to get things done the only that has really tagged my fingers ans knuckles over the years of sewing.are the needle clamp screws that stick out on the sides during shaft strokes . I also been tagged a few times over the years by the 'Toe' of the needle feed feet, and pinch the skin. .

LWcom link to older thread / similar discussion . - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95016-roller-foot-could-you-and-would-you/ -

I am always browsing in the local area Adds. here for machines. A lot of sewing going on here, so there always a lot of turnover for sales for used industrials around the NW Portland/Seattle area here, BUT... you dont see many of these Ever come-up for Sale . I not connected to this Sale . It a slow Sunday Morning, and I just throwing this up here based solely on --->clik on . Cool Factor -

DB-130G . millions of those Mitsu. DB models made, distributed worldwide .

looks like you spent time putting some thought into that overhaul . Very nice job . .

Ya it meant for garment semi-high speed. I could only find one Vid. on internet of that exact DB model, and it looks like garment 'needle-feed' lockstitch . The ( -3 ) of ending I am not positive but just 'maybe' needle-feed . I looked at the manual for the -B763 minus/No '-3' , and it just a drop-feed . . edit add . This Only Pic. I could find of this exact OLD DB- model DB2-B763-3 . So it most likely just a plain Drop-Feed . -

I live just west of, and pretty close to Portland . There is a lot of sporadic machine turn over here in the NW area. also Lots of small sew shops tucked away, and also people sewing . If looking for a good clean used I see them popup all the time . You can run across some nice clean machines on the Portland Craigslist if check at it regularly . I not doing Facebook, but I here there some machines come up in the for-sales there also . .

Also, double check the tension you winding thread on your bobbin winder . things happen, and bobbin winder gets looked at very little when you working repetitious day after day. .

( Don't Oil Anything ) .. till you blow all sand and grit off everywhere real well with a air compressor .Use a Vacuum Cleaner or Shop Vac to suck out all the open hole spots and just generally everywhere . Being stored and pretty Dry is a Plus for you right now . If you Lube it only going to attract and flow the grit into places you Don't Want, while making it a real job to clean, rather than looking like a pretty easy job right now . .After you get it all blown off with Compressor, then you can do an assessment if the sand/grit is actually going to be a problem . It probably Not. If only sitting for a month, most likely all the contaminant is just laying on top surfaces only. Also.. that is a Real Nice cherry looking Consew Head for it's Age. It older Made in Japan and, ' It is a Keeper ', so get it cleaned up. .