nylonRigging

That Pfaff is a L-hand machine . what does the front of the machine look like ? Is that the only Pic. that you have of it, of the backside ? .

Taking a harder look at that sailrite offering on that bias binding, It 'probably ?' is quality weave for outdoors/marine environment, Poly for better UV life . it's double fold edge, so that is extra cost for them from the Mill. but the asking retail is pretty high-$ . Buying off the Ebay is hit and miss,and lot of middle-man reselling. but I have run across some deals though in the past. - Ya if you buying 1 roll at time on-line off ebay/amazon then you are kind of stuck. when I buy binding and tape, I always buy no less than1-k yrd. @ a time, and that is really not that much tape, as I goes pretty quick. On a color I use all time, I have had done custom color orders with 5-k yrd. and that will last me about 3 years average. and when ordering from a mill, you really don't even begin getting any price cuts unless you start getting 10-k plus+ Yrd. . Good mil.spec.Nylon 3/4" typelll runs ( I paid ) anywhere from .22 to .26 yrd. it all depends if you ordering from a Mill, or getting from a supplier with them having order drop-shipped from a mill. - Ya herringbone-bias nylon lays down, turns and tracks good . Bias weave always flex's better than the straight line weave of grosgrain. Financially...LOL, you might want to move away from that sailrite Bias binding . ( PM sent to you ) . - The grosgrain and bias look different, turn different . ( me ) i determine which, by the needs of the Item. ( i think ) Nylon Gross grain makes a visually nice presentation for finished edge trim like small items, pocket front edges..etc.. The herringbone-bias I use for heavy thicker outside seams of bags, or bigger items. It all personal preferences. .

Nice.. you are starting to work some binding, and working on building technique with laying down some stitches. the more you run binding, the easier it going to get for you, especially learning the little Idiosyncrasies your machine does with stitching and feeding it. What you aying on that 'thinner' material you taping , and you using single-needle. If you turn radius with 3/4"width grosgrain typelll 1a, Instead of 1" wide . You are correct. The 3/4" will lay and turn nicer with less wrinkle distortion . Same for that Bias 1" the weave with single-needle. Bias always turns substantially tighter than the Grosgrain weave will . If you go 3/4" on that Bias, It will do some real tight turns and lay flat smooth/nice . But.. you are getting the synchronized swing set-up and eventually working. So you will be able to just swap-out different size throats for taping width changes. Dude.. 136-$ for 100 yrd. roll of 1" polyester bias is pretty SICK . I cant believe that price is correct ? . I pay usually in the .32 to .34 per yard for 100 yrd. mil.spec 1" Nylon 4082-1 herringbone-bias . The price for the Grosgrain is little high, but 'is what is' if you just picking up a roll or two occasionally off the Amazon . .

Man that a cheap price to start building a setup . . All the binder throats are sold separate In different sizes for the width of binding you using .. All you do is just take Off/On with the two screws on end of arm, and that good for you so you can move back-forth from maybe 1/2 or 3/4" for your thin stuff. to 1" and wider for thicker binding . . Your compound feed should do a very good job binding, it just a different feed with certain characteristics. Your clipped into a hole on the Dog and your swinging synchronized to the feed motion . you just have to learn to set-up and then build a technique by just binding different edges/shapes/thickness .. all binder size throats sold separate sizes/widths. just take out 2 screws and swap the tapes . If you have different size feet cut/shaped married to that size Tape, then you swap them also. .. PIC. -

Your Pfaff 1245 is not a common machine for finding Synchronized-swing binder set-ups . for your compound feed that would really be the thing for you to get hookedup with trying to do a correct professional set-up . If you had a 335 you be golden they common for aftermarket . I dont thing KHsew in Hong Kong does one either, and only one I see offering syncro-swing parts for a 1245 is Italian . Offering Dog/plate, Feet, and Bracket is this one.in link below---> They List parts model #'s of... 145 / 245 / 545 / 1245 1245/syncr/swing/bind - Edit Add: Well I lied to you...LOL . I logged-into KH and looked around and, they Do offer for Pfaff 1245 . I bought things from KHsew before and they are 'very' good quality machined aftermarket parts, and super Fast on the delivery to. KH/1245/swing .. https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=141_143_250&product_id=383 KH/1245/Dog-Needle Plate .. https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=374 -

Double-Needle does leave a great finish look for edge binding . Also you talking about 'Sailrite' for binders ? and I think their main machine line is all Drop-Feed Walkers, and they push binders for that system. That a little different Feed than your Pfaff Compound-Feed machine . The Non-Walk feed of the inner foot and Needle shaft of Drop-feed walk is easier to set-up a simple stationary Binder on positioning it right in there tight to needle. AND .. have you ever thought of just getting an old Singer single-needle or double-needle Like an Old.. 111 112 or, 211 212 in a ( Needle Feed ) to learning on for Binder set-up, and Binding ? . Needle-feed does a nice job for binding. People pass over the old needle-feed Singers all the time when looking for a old compound-feed, and most are sold pretty cheep. Needle-feed does a great job binding. the old Singer feet, dogs, plates are plentiful and cheep. Setting up Binders on them is a little more forgiving and easier learning curve. Everything you build on your sew binding technique from that will translate over bigtime for latter down the road. along with setting up other binders. . I cant edit/add anything to last Post I made, I guess I timed-out for that. For a mil-spec Nylon Herringbone/bias . I pretty sure it's a ' Mil-W-4088 ' . I use that for years and it tops for way it feeds and finish presentation. Also it Never Hurts to just ask suppliers to mail sample of binding materials if you not sure what it is, for you to see if it is what you want to use before a larger order. Pic. of some of the 3/4" and 1" ,on the Mil-W-4088 Nylon binding, and the weave look. - -

I got into all this side of things on the Para Rigging side of sewing, and to this day it still makes my head spin with the designated 'ID' Mil-Spec labeling of every individual type of webbing, binding, tapes, threads ...etc. It's a Federal Gov. and military labeling that all material must fall into a ( minimum requirement/rating ) of, size, thickness, structural breaking strength, ..etc. I think it even gets into the number of TPI requirements on the Looms that are even doing the weaving. with all this also getting into 'Berry compliance'.. Bla bla bla bla...eyes glaze over....LOL Getting into this is a 'Rabbit Hole' that you wont see daylight for a week. But like I said in earlier Post. the quality of your binding materials you use will feed and lay so much better if it mil.spec. and US Milled product. Your headaches will be minimal with binding. This plus getting the proper binder, set-up proper to your machine . Grosgrain, most common seam bind is 3/4" and 1' width tape, you want to use ' Mil-T-5038H class 1A type lll . If you do a order straight from the Mill . Here is a pic. of the common label with the nomenclature of spec compliance . -

The binder itself looks like a plain raw edge binder. pretty sure there a difference in raw edge, and double-fold materials for binders . Do you even need to use a double-edge fold binding tape ?, factory woven edge probably is just fine for your finish seam binding . Also. I would think it harder to make a good radius turn also with using the double-fold, over using a raw edge finish . Even though it a more pliable bias weave, being 'double thickness' is going to lead to tracking issues on stitching bending tight radius . I do have double-fold attachments of different sizes for double folding cut material strips, but I never use double-fold binding materials in binding. Also 'Wawak' . have actually never bought anything from them, but they look to be a sew supply house and not an actual production Mill . I just typed the single word 'webbing' into the google search. They look to be a heavy payer-$ for brand name placement up-front covering 1st page for search findings . I NOT saying saying Wawak good/bad . I just saying they buy their materials from everywhere on the planet to then stamp their Name on for Retail Sales. I would find out if you buying 'paying' for import or domestic for your materials like bindings and webbing because there is a BIG difference in quality most times. .

Also add.. Turning radius is not to hard if you get the setup correctly mounted into the Feet on your machine . That is a BIG hurtle to teach yourself. Reality is that the only way to really learn how, is to just start mounting Binders to your machines Feed, and build some understanding with how positions/angle/height effects the feeding of the binding out the throat and lays. Different binding materials do turn different. Also you might be trying to turn to Wide of Width Binding, in relationship to your thickness of material ? . it does takes some practice also so you need to take it all in stride, dude I been running finish edge seam binding over 30+ years, with almost everything I sew having binding on it, and I still screw-up once in while. ( Me ).. I have set-up a CrapLoad of binders on machines, and fed many miles of binding. I seam bind almost everyday I sewing .. But.. my skill.. I only know what I do for last 30+ years. I use double-needle and single-needle, I only use raw edge binders and binding, I primarily use 'Love' needle-feeds for taping/binding . I do have and use compound feeds, but synchronized-swing set-ups . I mostly 'like using' type-lll grosgrain's, and I use Herringbone Bias binding. - OK.. I just grabbed cut some scrap to show you different material in reference to thickness of material you bind . 'Radius' Binding. using ( 2 ) R-Angle Binders. Here a 5" circle consisting of 2-piece of 1-k denier cordura. seam bound with 3/4" wide typelll with a 3/32 gauge double needle, T-70 thread . 5" radius is about as tight as I like to go with a double-needle . Single-needle with some 1/2" wide bias will easy turn even smaller/tighter radius . Then there a radius with material of 3-pieces of 1-k cordura with some high density closed cell foam in-between. So this is lot Thicker edge, and I using 1" wide type2 herringbone Bias, with a single-needle, and #138 nylon thread. - -

Sorry, couldn't reply sooner I been in the shop all day cutting a sewing . OK first off, I don't understand this, In the Pic. ? , I might not be seeing it correctly ? with your Tape feeding/going into Binder. You got a Raw-Edge Binder, and it looks like you got Tape folding, as it is feeding into the binders throat. - -

Your binding tape choices make a HUGE difference when you don't match to your specific needs . Also a lot of the cheep import binding is out of spec. crap. Try only to buy US milled quality and it really aids to better tracking, lays down better, makes your work look 100% professional. Buy your product from a good vendor selling US quality mil-spec. or just order direct, like from Bally Ribbon mill. Cheep Binders, they can lay down Real Nice tape job with using quality tape, and If the binder is setup proper on that machine. but, then just opposite. Expensive-$ Binder if setup Bad to machine, just gives you one continuous Headache after another. with your work looking like crap. .

Thread advances 'Comes Off' the top thread spool, after every-time the Patcher foot makes contact. Patcher Foot is the feed . The Thread advances 'Comes Off' as 'Needle Goes Up' same time the Patcher Foot feeds/drags the Thread and material behind for the beginning of next needles plunge with top thread. 'basically' .. Bobbin thread advances 'Comes Off' with every completed cycle of the Hook, and With the Needle Up-stroke pulling, and thread 'Comes Off' Bobbin . .