anester05
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Posts posted by anester05
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thats what I am probably going to do. I just hope the manual stitch works well enough with the decorative stitch I already put on the back and flap. It will look better than a screwed up stitch but this is a give away project now.
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You can make the gusset any width you want with the pattern you have. The purse will never know it called for a 2 inch gusset. Make the flap longer so it still is in the right place to buckle or however it fastens on the front. It's just like i tried to tell my neighbor you can put a GM motor in a Ford change motor mounts and such the car will never know or care.
The problem is the flap is set I have already carved it but I think I can extend the gusset a bit without too many problems. I am doing this purse as an experiment anyway so when I get to a purse that matters I don't screw it up. but we'll see.
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I think I will do some experimenting tonight with the ruined gusset and cut a blank to sew onto it. I will use the roller guide with a double foot. I need to figure this out so I can sew the gussets into these purses. I think I can make a new gusset with a 5/8" tab to see if that gives me extra wiggle room. I will also extend the new gusset to possibly 3". Maybe the purses I make in the future just need a 4" gusset. Guess I need to find a purse pattern that accommodates that. Thanks for the advice.
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I think you are going to have to sew on the insides of the gusset, bending the other side away from the needlebar and face plate as you sew. Consider my suggestions about making a narrow presser foot set. You may need a third hand from a helper to bend the other side and push in on the bottom side and you guide the flange under the needle.
If your work involved much wider gussets (4+ inches), you could sew along the outside surfaces. There simply isn't enough room with a 2" gusset (the end of the arm/shuttle is over 3.5" in diameter).
I was afraid you where gonna say that. Is there anyway to make the bottom stitch look any nicer?
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Here are some tips that might help you sew gussets.
Use a double toe foot set. If the right was going to fall off, the left stays on. A 1/2 inch space should work fine.
Get an extra outer foot and grind down the outsides of the toes to about 1/16" or less width. This lets you get closer to the inside of the shaped gusset.
Get another right toe foot and grind it thin of the side. Get another inside foot and grind it down on the left side. This lets you sew very close to the left side of shaped cases and gussets. Align the feet so they almost touch on the right side of the inside foot. This reduces the track width required to keep them on the work.
Use a roller edge guide and press the work tightly against it as you encounter these sharp turns.
Use a 227 type machine to sew gussets, with #207 thread in the bobbin and on top (#24 needle). The bobbins won't hold much 207 thread, but you should be able to sew a couple of purse gussets per bobbin load. Use a narrow zipper foot set to get as close to the inside as possible. Ferg bought one just to sew gussets.
All I have is the Cobra 4 so I need to make that machine work. Which side should I sew on the top of the inside up?
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My machine works well and I can get a great stitch but when I try to sew in a gusset all hell breaks loose. I messed up the front so I have to remake the front and form a new gusset. Any tips on preparing this for machine sewing instead of hand sewing.
I made the formed 2 inches wide with a .5 inch tab. Does the tab need to be bigger? The problem that I run into is when I go around the curves I run off the edge. Any advice will be welcome.
Thanks,
Adam
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With either a stirrup or holster plate and no feed dog. Both are raised almost a half inch above the standard top of a throat plate. This allows dee rings and buckles to pass on one side or the other,as you sew.
Guess Ill have to spring for one of those. How does it move the leather without the feed dogs?
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Try using contact cement, or double sided leather tape, to hold the side pieces in alignment. Bend the wallet sharply as you come to the middle area. Better yet, install your stirrup throat plate, if you have one, and bend the wallet around it as you sew. This will give it natural stretch. If you didn't get the stirrup plate with your machine you can order it now.
I do not have the stirrup plat but I will try the glue up before I sew this next time. Also how do you sew right up next to a D-Ring?
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With a bifold the insides are 3/8" shorter then the outsides. When I was sewing on my machine when I got to the middle the wallet started to stretch against the machine causing the stitches not to get pulled through. I also started to list to the side very badly. Is there a technique in sewing the bifold insides to the back?
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I do plan on talking with Steve more on this but I am posting here to see if anyone else has had this problem and might have a quick fix.
The main problem is the machine will be humming along fine and then a couple of stitches will not pull through.
I am trying to stitch the length of a strap for a breast collar. It is just a single ply 10-12 oz strap. I don't seem to have this problem with thinner thread. Could this be a me trying to sew with too thick of thread?
Thread I am using is 277 with a 200/25 needle.
Here are some pictures of my problem.
Thanks for any help on this.
Adam
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I had the problem with my class 4. I was sewing a wallet which is about 4oz to the insides. All combined it was about 6-8oz of leather. I ended up using a #138 thread with the smallest needle that came with the machine. I had to adjust the top tension down a bit. The lock stitch you have there is probably as thick as the leather you are trying to sew.
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After looking at the disaster here what are some things I can do for my next project so I won't ruin it with my new machine.
I love my sewing machine I just need to learn how to use it. I figure I need 3/8" edge instead of a 1/4" edge next time. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Adam
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I soak a paper towel in a bit of acetone, not the healthiest thing to do but it works great.
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Troop,
Are you using pre-finished leather or veg tan and dyeing it your self. Also what thickness did you use for the gussets?
Thanks,
Adam
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Is this list still relevant? Are there any others?
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The door is solid, heaviest door I've carried handles basket stamping well.
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Found an old door and decided to make a work bench out of it.
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I am looking to buy a leather sewing machine. Is there a supplier near Houston or does someone what to upgrade and looking to sell their old machine.
Thanks,
Adam Nester
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Sorry man, I didn't mean to put you down. Nobody was born knowing this stuff!
No offense taken at all, anyway looks like my grandfather's old sewing machine will do the job of sewing wallet insides, its an old Kenmore made in the 50's.
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Save your money, and read Wiz' thread on the type of sewing machine you need to sew leather. The Singer 15 class are great machines - for fabric. They were never designed to sew leather. Singer did make machines specifically to sew leather, and they look nothing like a 15 class.
Yeah I feel like an idiot now, what an awesome thread it answered all my questions.
Time for this thread to die a slow and horrible death.
Thanks for the responses.
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I am looking at this machine.
I want a machine for sewing wallet and purse insides, and maybe even sewing wallets. Just wanted to know anybody here has had any experience with old machines are they worth the investment.
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Both. I have a customer lined up who wants some head stalls made, and I wanna make belts to sell. Thats why I would like to have a skiver because the head stall I am making requires a whole-Lotta skiving. I figure I'll buy a machine when my leather work has paid for it. First up is a skiver and then a sewing machine. I guess a sewing machine might be first.
This is the head stall I will be making.
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That would be awesome, so I guess I know what I need to save for. How much does the hand crank one cost from weaver?
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What is a slitter?
Making A Leather Covered Jewellery Box
in How Do I Do That?
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I have several small boxes I would like to cover with tooled leather and turn into a jerellery box. Any suggestions? I assume I should glue the leather on the box then sew the mitered corners. Should I replace the brass hinges with leather hinges? Are there any goog tutorials online?
Thanks
Adam