Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Manuel55

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Barcelona, Spain

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I tried the suggestions, except the bigger spool, which I don't have currently. When I move the thread guide up to number three, the thread spring is moving in a way, it is not supposed to be. As far as I understand it should only move 0.5 mm when the thread is passing the biggest part of the Bobbin. But if i set up the thread take up guide to 3 and use the bottom hole of the take-up arm, the spring gets under tension way more. It feels from an uneducated guess, that there is a more direct issue. Maybe something, how the thread goes around the bobbin case? I made two videos:
  2. HI, I made some pictures, following the thread. What I noticed: When I hand wheel while sewing, and I get to the timing, when the machine is about to pull the top thread from the spool. The slower is move the hand wheel, the less thread i receive from the spool. When I turn the hand wheel in that position quickly, it get the supposed amount of thread. So i tested by hand, and it looks like there is an initial resistance to the thread which disappear slightly after pulled over that resistance. I am not sure, if this is supposed to be normal, but it kind of would explain, why there is an issue with hand wheeling, as the bobbin thread can be pulled with a great consistency. The tension after the last disc feels generally slightly inconsistent, but I am not sure, if this is objective. I had a look on the tension discs, and they seem to be without any marks or anything else. Maybe there is a material, that can be used instead of the metal, to decrease the initial resistance?
  3. Thank you for your answer! I am using at the moment in this particular trial set: A&E Gütermann Tera 20 (Bottom and Top), and tried mostly with needles: Schmetz 134-35 Size 120/130/140 LR, VR and D This should be the correct sizing as I understood. I am only using hand wheeling to identify the problem. Mostly I am sewing with motor, where sometimes a single knot might appear up and down, which is the real problem for me. To track the issue I started hand wheeling to slow things down, and then the problem of the knots on the Top side appear. So my wild guess was, that the motor stitching, somehow, is covering the issue mostly, and by hand wheeling it shows more.
  4. Hi, I am having serious troubles (3 mechanics visited, Emailed Producer 7 times forward and back, spend almost 10 days in trying) to set up my Adler Duerkopp Eco 669 to sew consistently. I tried different threads (Gutermann 20, MBT 5 & 8) Different needles: 120-160 points: D/VR/S/LR Schmetz. Different settings on all possible places. However the problem stays, just sometimes the knots go up or down accidentally. I am sewing vegtan leather (rather an 8 on the scale from 1-10 in stifness). 2 Layers of 2 mm thickness, straight lines mostly. I cleaned most parts visible, to be sure its nothing stuck, and set the needle to be in the supposed to be correct position. The tension on the bobbin and on the upper thread i tried in 100 of different settings, but nothing was 100% working. What i discovered, which might lead to the cause of all problems: If I stitch by motor, I can set up the stitching to be nearly flawless completely. But if I switch then and turn the wheel by hand, I get a much higher probability of the knots forming on top of the leather. If anyone is out there, who has a good idea, what might be the cause, and where I could keep looking, I would be so thankful.
  5. Hey, yes I just saw your reply, I ordered it a while ago and waiting for the delivery, as its being hold by spanish customs Hope to test it out soon, it looks good on pictures, but still not near anything like a nice braided cord
  6. Just for the record, it seems, that julius koch stopped the production of this thread. Minimum oder quantity is 100.000 m This is unfortunate, as Ritza 44 seemed to be the only braided thread such thin (0.4 mm)
  7. They only supply two colours for the Ritza 44. I called them and they told me, that they would supply any other colour, due to the high minimum order quantity and the low demand.
  8. Ok thanks all for the advises, I finally got a second hand Adler 669 nearly unused for a really good price. So I went for it.
  9. Hey, I have been researching now for quite a while and it seems that Ritza 44 in 0.4 mm is only available in 3 colours through resellers white, black and yellow. I am looking for a brown colour (colonial tan to be precise), but it seems that this colour is only available directly from julius Koch. They are asking for quite a minimum order, so I am a bit hesitant, especially as I don't know yet exactly, how the thread will work on the machine. Does anybody have an idea, where to source it? Or in the other way around, anybody tried ritza 44 on a machine, and discovered, that it causes too many problems, and therefore dropped the idea of using it? Thanks already for answering.
  10. Thank you so much Mike, I will definitely also check them out. What do you think in general about the machines, I have listed above? I get the impression that the Pfaff 335 might not be suitable for 0.6 mm ritza (207 or 277 thread equivalent?) But I haven't tried 0.4 mm thread Ritza in general, so I don't know for sure yet, that this won't be anyway better for nearly 2 mm Leather. greetings from Barcelona
  11. I also found a PFAFF Kl. 335 G 706/07 which is used and can be shipped from germany for a total of 2100 € with electronic stop motor
  12. Hi, I have been working now for a while with hand stitching, and found my own style, which is pretty much to my liking. But the time i spend sewing makes my products just to expensive. So I am looking forward to buy a sewing machine. I am from Germany but living in Barcelona. While in Germany, it seems easier to buy a second hand machine from a dealer, I haven't found a dealer yet close to barcelona. 1. sewing rather soft vegetable tanned leather Vachetta in the thickness 1.6-2,2 mm 2. maximum 4 layers. 3. Creating a similar stitching look to a 3mm Seiwa pricking iron with 0.6 mm ritza 25 4. Probably with 0.6 mm ritza 44 thread equally to 208 machine thread? (up and down preferably the same threadsize) (0,4 mm is not available in "small" quantities in my colours) 5. Sewing simple straight lines, but also more complicated inside out constructions As I have never been working with a sewing machine I would rather choose a machine, which is easier to use. Looking at the options and researching I found a few machines, which I think would be suitable for my needs: 1. Techsew 2750 pro No Price yet, but situated in Germany/France so probably around the same 2750 € + vat 2. Pfaff 335 Dealer in the south of spain 2650 € +vat 3. Adler 669 / 69 Dealer close to Barcelona 3790 € + Vat 4. Texi HD forte cilindro Dealer inside Barcelona 2050 € + Vat My question now is, if you do think, that the extra 600 € towards a Pfaff 335 from the Texi clone are worth it, especially, as the dealer isn't close to barcelona? The Adler 69 Eco seems to be out of my budget. Techsew would be a nice fit, from what I can see, but in the end the dealer is quite far located. So the service might not be so great. I would like to pay a maximum of around 2500 €. Did I miss out any option in your opinion? Thank you and excuse me, that my first post is a request for information ;)
  • Create New...