SpruceMoose

I suppose it depends on the material you work with, if heavier leathers or ultra thin, more specialized dedicated knives would be the route. With the leather type and weight i work I've been happy with brand name utility knives and blades for 10 years, but there are better ways. Head knives of course, like many of the experienced folks here use, i just haven't gotten around to practicing with it, and being so comfortable with utility. There's also those knives like the Vergez Blanchard L'Indispensable Brass Knife and many other styles and types, cobbler knives etc that many here use. Someone with more knife experience could offer some great advice if you made a post i'm sure. Searching for the perfect knife can be a rabbit hole!

Shipped tracked Both are solid in ferrules, may need cleaning, oiling, re-profiling/sharpened(both are sharp) Sorry I only ship knives within Canada. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976175387 https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976169899

Various tools for sale, many need cleaned, oiled, sharpened etc. More tools to follow. Sorry, will not ship knives outside of Canada. C.S Osborne Overstitch wheel lot: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976091071 Unknown Maker Beveler Lot: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976125899 C.S Osborne Channeler Lot: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976117402 J.Beaudry Saddlery Punch: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/334976135340 I ship tracked North America.

I like videos like this. Shows that fancy expensive tools don't always mean anything. Cheap home brew tools in skilled hands. Are you genuinely asking what blades he might be using?(sorry i couldn't tell if your asking what he was using was sarcasm or not lol) Try a few different brands of utility knife blades. Try brand name and cheap ones, there's different steel as well. Razor blades as well for the groover and some whatever the heck handle and a hose clamp with a knob attached. The rubber looks like retread material. Metal beads are only on side walls generally. Not all retread has any canvas/material layering. So a fresh sharp utility knife, even a dollar store one, would cut like butter, initially. Lasting sharpness is another thing.

Thanks everyone, i've got the right parts manual from techsew. i just wanted to make sure i had the right parts numbers.

It appears I may be missing the spring and ball from the stitch length adjuster lever, almost like someone took it aprt and didn't put it back. Now to make sure which machine has the same parts.

Thanks, I did find one on one of wiz's threads on the 2700. I believe the jukis 341n 's manual is another one. Good to have a few though, some online pdfs can be missing pages, usually the one you want. edit:i do have the 2700 manual, same info but it didn't come with the parts/engineers side, i do have a copy of the consew as well. Hoping the screw parts match

Anyone have any pointers to possibly fixing the stitch length adjuster? I've scoured the internet, these forums and cannot find much. I've had it 3 weeks, it's been working, I've been practicing on it. I've found the wheel hasn't felt quite right, felt like it was sticking a bit, (also the machine screws, being flat, that hold the wheel in place come loose and the dang wheel wiggles out) so my husband and i went through it making sure oil was getting to where it needed, oiling and running higher speed, listening, watching(as it had sat unused(though oiled) before i bought it,) thinking maybe oil wasn't getting somewhere( he's a diesel mechanic and has a good eye for making sure things sound right, getting oil etc) It had seized up for a short period after about 20 minutes of running it higher sped with my husband looking over it, in it, watching where oil was and wasn't. Keep in mind, we did not take anything apart or tinker with any innards other than the bobbin case to clean some thread out, everything remained timed etc afterwards. So i thought i'd bring it in to get it checked and serviced, as i didn not want to risk running it and damaging anything further if something was wrong, like a bushing etc. Stitch length adjuster worked before going. Unfortunately does not now. Not many industrial machine repair people around my parts. I am not accusing, something could have went amiss when it seized. Repairman also thought 7 oz leather was too thick for this model to stitch proper and that i should only expect to stitch maybe 5oz and less. From the research i've gathered this machine can handle 3/8th's leather. I've been practicing on about 2/8 thick leather and down and it worked good, timing wise, stitch length, etc. with 92 and 138 bonded nylon thread, 135x17 sz 23(yes i know fabric) have 135x16 dp on order. Another note, the take up spring was completely broken the whole time i've had it, yet everything worked, they replaced it with a very thin one, and removed all the internal wicks saying they werent factory, i told him they were before i dropped it off, so now theyre gone. I also mentioned the safety clutch reset button and though possibly the adjustment on it's sensitivity could possibly be the culprit of it stopping, they never checked it. I think i've also got, to add to this, some crap thread. very stiff and twisty, has kinked up on me alot. Looking to replace it with a better brand, some A&E bonded nylon. Hoping I can get it to work, hoping i'm not sh*t out of luck. Joys of second hand machine gambling. Biggest mistake, not researching the proper repair business. Industrial. Currently saving up a few bucks to bring it to the right place Thanks for any info or condolences lol.

What's your favourite machine needle point for both looks and function?

Thanks FredK, those are nice looking chicago screws, i'll have to keep an eye out, since i'm doubling up on each sling i'll be needing another order soon!

Thanks again for the info everyone, went with 2 quality brass screws per end. Would love to do a nice knot, but like i said, i need the customer to be able to take apart and put it back.

The basketweave is a trial belt i've made for myself. (excuse my wonky stitching, made a dumb mistake of not turning down the speed after bobbin winding, once i did that i didn't follow through with the rest of the edge finishing either, i need far more practice on my machine before i touch things, i am impatient sometimes, which leads to mistakes, lessons learned lol. And as someone who has hand-stitched for what feels like eternity, i got a little excited on it, techsew 2700, pretty nice, i've read a ton on here about it, much appreciated info from wizcraft.

Thank you for the feedback everyone, means a lot coming from experienced long time professionals! I think I will cut the lining back to 4-5 (I've tried 3-4 previously, but i found the edges wrinkled up to much, though the side was a little soft) To mitigate the wrinkling I also utilize the technique of gluing the liner on while giving the belt a gentle curve, found here, I believe a Dwight tip on some buried thread (I'm reading back through every page in most categories, a ton of priceless information here) Needless to say, those are very nice belts JLS. I don't have many photos of regular or tooled belts(made the old classic mistake of not backing up a computer, lost everything a few years ago). Below I have a few older examples of un-lined kilt belts, and a little tooling(excuse the tooling, they are about 8 year old photos)

I've just started making tooled layered belts(made many unlined belts, got new machine, am venturing out into lined items). 8-9 oz front, 6 oz back roughly. I skive the billet a hair as well. I find that too thick to nicely go through a buckle, yet I see them everywhere by professionals the same weight if not far heavier weights with a standard brass buckle. What am I missing here? Thanks for any input in advance.

Hello I can't seem to find much info, so here i am again. I'm looking to use some nice Wickett and Craig Milled traditional harness Leather, and am wondering, with all the waxes and oils, if that's something that might bleed/dye transfer when wet. I'm looking to make bags, and dye transfer is always one of my first concerns when trying new leather, as i use and dye veg tan 95% of the time, i am used to control over this aspect. Not having any suppliers within range, i can only buy online, so i can almost never handle a leather for buying. Swatches don't always give you a good feel i find. Thanks for any info you folks might have. -Cheyenne

There's also some hand crank leather pinking machines on ebay currently as well, as if we all can't use a little more tool temptation

Thats what i was wondering, i'm more of a 'if it does it's function well' why spend a million dollars on something shiny with a fancy brand(though some tools i will spend more, stamps currently). I thought maybe there was a setter out there that domed the shaft nicer

I am wondering if anyone has experience lets say the standard osbourne, and the nice 3 piece setters from buckle guy. I'm looking to upgrade and would like a nice quality setter. Are they all the same pretty much or is there a notable difference in the way they dome the shaft and cap. Thanks!

Small sized half round punch maybe? I suppose it depends on how small of a scallop. But I know you can get the half round punch real small though they are cheap tools from China, might work nice

Thank you for all the suggestions, I do like the thronged knot, saddle knot combination, and have used lock tite in the past. My only issue with both is that i do not include the swivel mount hardware with the slings(they are $30+ for a good set), I wouldn't mind doing so as I sell slings 200cad and up range, but not everyone uses the same mounts. The customer has to be able to attach the sling. Some guns out there are worth more than anything i own, so i like to ensure i am selling a product that is secure. The chicago screws i'm using seem to be of good quality. Solid brass, 1/4 inch, buckleguy. I think maybe 2 per end or a combination with an easier saddle knot( something that will hold tight, and the customer can do, ship laced but loose) Anyone know what the knot pictured below might be called? Maybe that is what you are referring to Dwight? I just noticed, I often do not see this lace knot on both ends, I would think one would want to, but the amount of holes on the adjustable end would get wildly out of hand. Side question, I've researched this forum thoroughly, and have come up with varying conclusions on average sling lengths, any opinions? I make Cobra style for now, (and am setting up to make M1907). I make a standard cobra and an xl length one, all adjustable. I just like to be sure that i am in range of the standard sizing. Most customers read the description of exact sizing and measurements anyways, but good to be sure with so much varying 'standard' sizing info out there, as well as many buy them for gifts that may not be gun users. (Photo from 7X Leather, not my own, for reference). Thanks everyone. -Cheyenne

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I've been making rifle slings for a while. While many designs out there only have one screw per end, I like to double up as a fail safe, they do come unscrewed i'm guessing with use and not checking them. What do you folks think? Overkill?

Does anyone have much experience between the two? I'm tempted by some of the colors offered by Black Crown Threads, but do not want to switch the machine between differing materials and having to reset everything. Wondering if any of you have much experience with it, or should i just stick to the tried and true bonded nylon. I am sewing on a Techsew 2700. Medium weight items, I like a thick showing thread. New to machine sewing. Just shopping around for threads Thanks!

Thank you both for the information, I look forward to fixing up this round knife! -Cheyenne

Hello I recently acquired a w.rose round knife that I'm going to have to repair, most likely completely replace the ferrule and handle. I've scoured the forums and have read quite a bit by folks here who have restored many a knife. That said I am looking for more information and detail on making a handle(once I figure out how it is attached/assembled). I have no experience in this department though I have always been able to learn new skills adequately enough to do a functioning, half decent looking job, more utilitarian wise, maybe not so much finesse with carpentry or wood working in general. Though I would love to, I am not able to send it to be professionally restored currently, though it may be something I could do in the future if anyone knows what an approximate range might be in cad. I have much for hardwood(ash, maple, birch), I found some curly maple, thought that might be nice though it is not kiln dried, just a hunk of seasoned wood yet to be fondled. Any links to videos, previous threads I might have missed, etc would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! -Cheyenne