palvim

Could you please share how to do this so the thread is only released at the top of the lift?

Hi All i have seen on so many videos where people lift the presser foot to see the exact position of the needle or while turning. And nothing goes wrong. The next stitch has perfect tension. When I even slightly lift the presser foot, the next one or two stitches are bad where the tension goes off. Bottom thread starts showing on the top. Why is that? Is there something I’m missing why others seem to have no issues doing it but mine always gets bad? I’m using an Adler 269-373 as well as a 267-373 machine. Thanks for the help. Vimal.

The machine with the flatbed attachment is not a 269 machine.

Here it is circled in red.

Hi All, Does anyone know where I could buy a flatbed attachment for aAdler 269-373 sewing machine. I’ve been trying to find one in Europe but haven’t yet. I could buy it from the US too. Any pointers?

Check if the clutch safety mechanism is not disengaged. This machines safety mechanism kicks in quite easily.

Here is another pic from another angle

Hi All, For the love of God, I can’t figure out how this end knot is tied. It looks so simple but I just do t get it. Can anyone help me or show me how it is done? Thank you in advance!

Hello All I’m trying to sew a wallet on my Adler 267-373 flat bed machine. I use about 3-4oz of leather for the wallet. But on some sections of the wallet I have only 2 layers of leather and on some it goes up to 4 layers. I’ve been trying to figure out how to get the stitches consistent. If I set the tension right for 2 layers then it looks bad on 4 layers and vice versa. Is there some trick to doing this well? I know a lot of people sew wallets on this class of sewing machine. How do they get perfect stitches?

It's an Adler 267-373 machine.

I think it is in the setting that completes the stitch. If I press the pedal once, it'll go all the way up, then all the way down and then tiny bit up (after the hook has picked up the bobbin thread). Was that what you meant?

I think the bobbin screw for adjusting tension is correct. As the tension on straight stitches is correct.

I've tried to stitch without lifting the presser foot and it doesn't help. Not pulling top thread at all. I have needle positioning system. So at the curve I do one stitch at a time. This system takes the needle up a tiny bit and stops. I turn the leather a bit. Next stitch. And so on.

120 needle and 92 thread.

Hello All, Can anyone please point me in the right direction? I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong at the corners that the stitch gets bad. I've tried to stitch over the curve without lifting the presser foot as well as by lifting the presser foot after the stitch is slightly up from all the way down. Nothing seems to work.

Forgot to mention that it'll mostly be used to sew leather wallets, bags, and thick canvas fabric products.

Hi All, I really want to purchase a flat bed machine. I've narrowed it down to these two that seem to be sold by the dealers in Sweden. The price is about the same for both machines here. And I really want to purchase the machine new locally in Sweden so I can get support in case I have issues with the machine and avoid business down time. Which machine would you choose and why? Thanks. Vimal.

I don't doubt that the 1541 and 1541s is a horizontal axis bobbin. I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about this version X55245 which seems like a new version of the 1541 type machine.

Thanks @kgg I think in that case the 1541s would actually be more suitable.

Hello, I would like to add a juki flatbed machine to my shop and I had a few questions. I wish to make leather bags, belts and wallets with vegetable tanned leather. The leather thickness and thread is generally as below. Belts: around 7 - 7.5mm (two layers of 3.5 - 4mm) with thread size 15/3 or even 10/3 if possible Bags: around 4 - 5mm ( two layers of 2 - 2.5 mm) with thread size 20/3 Wallets: around 2.2mm (two layers of 1.1mm) with thread size 30/3 or even 40 But I'd be quite ok with a sweet spot between thread size 30/3 and 20/3 with occasional one size thread up (10/3) and down (40/3) on either side of the sweet spot. I have narrowed it down to the JUKI DNU-1541S sewing machine firstly due to its price and easy access to third party accessories. Will this machine be a good fit for this purpose? I also see that there is a machine called JUKI DNU-1541/X55245. I understand that this machine is basically a 1541 with modification for thicker thread. But will it work well with the 30/3 thread or say a 40 thread? Also my thinking is that the usual 1541 will run on its max limit Vs the x55245 will be somewhere in the middle and not pushed so hard. Is that the right way to think? Which machine amongst these two will work best for my needs? I unfortunately don't have access to a JUKI dealer close to where I live in Sweden and I'll be buying it from either Hamburg, Germany or Poland. Thanks. Vimal.

I found this in the 2021 catalog. It seems there is a machine called DNU-1541/X55245 which is a modified 1541 for thick thread. It can go up to thread Nm 8/3 !!

Hello All, I was just browsing JUKI site and came across the Juli DNU-1541 picture with the hook part looking similar to the 1508 machine. I.e. on vertical axis. Is this really true or is it that the photographer or rendering guys went a little too creative :-)

Hello All, I'm debating if I should get a second hand 8 year old JUKI original machine or go for a copy machine. Actually the Juki is about £500 cheaper than a copy machine. However the copy machine comes with a speed reducer, edge guide and some more accessories. My real concern is that 8 year old machine starts to give issues sooner than a new machine. But also I know there are 50-60 year old machines that are still working. What do you think? Is it a good idea to go with a Juki original? It's selling for lower than half of its original price if I were to buy it new.

Absolutely @DonInReno!! I'll just try and experiment and see which needle works based on the stitch consistency and look. Hopefully I can continue to use 140 needle that works very well today.

So I was at the technician today and the machine seems to be working quite fine so far. Touch wood :-) The first thing he noticed that the hook was too far away from the needle. So he had to push the hook to the left so the hook was almost touching the needle to pick up the thread loop. I think that was the one that actually fixed the issue with uneven stitches. He also thought my bobbin tension was a tad bit loose so he tightened it. He also adjusted the presser foot which was not on level with the center foot when the needle should just enter the leather. His suggestion was also when I use 2 layers of 10oz leather to use 160 needle for the 92 thread. And 140 was fine for thinner leather. Before leaving he also taught me on the process of setting tension. His suggestion was that I set tension such that I see the bottom thread popping up on the top and then loosen it until it disappears enough into the leather. All this is probably basics but for a self taught person I thought it made a lot of sense. And this structured way of setting tensions was very good tip to follow. I came home and did very fine adjustments to make sure that the thread was leaving the throat plate smoothly. This made turning the flywheel a little easier. Moral of the story for me was N E V E R apply force on the machine when the thread and material is jammed. But I guess I learnt a lot from all you guys about adjusting the timing, needle to hook relationship, thread path on the throat plate etc in the process. In the end it was about $150 worth of lesson :-) Thanks a lot @Uwe for patiently helping me on this issue and replying to my queries so many times.