Landry

I really appreciate the comments I’ve received. After doing more research, I now believe my machine is a 31-19 industrial model sewing machine from the 1930s. I've been trying to sew some thin 2.5oz lambskin because I want to make a new flat cap for myself, and I figured it would be a good place to start. I have already determined my thread and 160 needle setup for thicker leather—specifically, two pieces of 3oz leather. However, for lambskin and fabric, I think I need to switch to a 100/16 needle, which I already have. The 160 needle creates a nice topstitch, but the bottom stitch isn’t great—the bobbin thread isn’t being pulled into the leather properly. Additionally, the 160 needle makes larger holes. I’ll provide an update once I fix a few other issues, as the thread tension spring needs to be replaced. A local repair guy also mentioned that my bobbin tension is really high, so I’ll see how things go with a 69 thread and a 100/16 needle.

Sorry, It's been an emotional weekend seeing an empty workshop. The model should read 31-15. It looks like it had a repaint on the base at some point, so I can't tell if it's an "X" or a "K," but "X" doesn't show up in the database, so it has to be "K." The serial number is K 353915. I was told that even though it's a tailor machine, if it's a newer model, it can sew thinner leathers. However, there were two scraps of veg-tan leather almost 7/8 inch thick under the presser foot—hard to pull out but impressive! I'm not planning to sew anything that thick, though. It may be a bit of a Frankenstein monster, and I almost want to leave it as is. If it's not broken, don't fix it, right? I'll just find the colors I need in that thread size. It sews my leather really well as it is, but I'll check the links above again I has some other needles with it and see what I can figure out. Thanks again for the information!

Hello, I recently acquired a Singer 30-15 sewing machine from a friend's wife. It was used for sewing belts, harnesses, and wallets. The model number seems to start with a "K," and I was told it's from the early 1900s, but it looks more like it's from the 1940s or 1950s. I'm having trouble finding a picture that matches my machine. It's missing an eyelet on the side near the tension spring, which only has a hole, and the tension spring looks different. The machine sews well with the White thread it came with, which is very thin not sure the size, but when I hand sew, I use a #5, 0.6mm VinyMo MBT Polyester thread (black shown in picture). I'd like to match this thread in the machine, but currently it doesn't like that thread, it looks nice on the top stitch but has loops and issues on the bottom stitch. The needle it has is a Schmetz 160, but I read that for my thread, I should use a 100/16 or 110/18 needle? I found some 100/16 needles that came with it, but they are shorter and didn't work at all. It's been a long time since I used a sewing machine (in high school I was pretty good at it), and I'm not well-versed in its setup. If its the wrong needle then I need to adjust tension for the 100/16 to work or do i need to adjust something for the 160 to work? Mostly want to use it for the thicker stuff on my wallets or belts and bags. Thank you!

I just looked up the singer 211 not a bad looking machine but I think I need a cylinder arm machine that comes with a table attachment. I think if I'm going to spend some money on a machine I might as well get something good. The cobra 26 has been on my list for a while just thought maybe I could start with something less expensive. Most of what I see is really close in price so a few extra dollars is worth the quality in my book.

Thanks I was looking at those same servo motors. They will work on the Pfaff 145 H4 I've seen a video about attaching one now I just need to find out what a good price for the Pfaff would be. I think that's going to be the way to go.

Hello all, I still have yet to purchase a sewing machine. I was looking at a tippmann boss at an auction last year but it got away from me. I haven't done very much leatherwork lately do to other projects needing finished. I was looking at the weaver master tool cub recently and I just don't think either option sounds that great. I have seen some posts on here about Pfaff 145 H4 and I just found one for sale a Pfaff 145 Industrial triple walking foot 4H LMN it's about $1300 shipped and its been restored. I'm not sure if it could be used manually it does not have a servo motor or a table. But then for a lower price I could get a new JUKI DDL-8700 INDUSTRIAL Sewing Machine + Table + Servo Motor for $799 shipped. I like the quality of the vintage machines but I'm not so sure about the price and then add for a servo and a table. I am using Vinymo MBT Thread - Size #5 - 60m it says its slightly thicker than machine thread size 138 which the Pfaff uses. I have been hand stitching on wallets but I will be doing only the interiors because it's pretty hard to go through thick leather and glue by hand for me. I also want to start making some bags purses so a machine that can handle that kind of stuff nothing really thick like holsters, any thin parts I will hand sew. Not sure how easy it would be to sew gussets and stuff that was one thing I liked about the master tool cub design. Any advice would be much appreciated thanks

Thanks much! She would be a good addition to my shop I will see what she goes for.

Thanks very true about the it’s mine mindset I’ve stopped bidding on things I knew I could get for less new.

Hello everyone I am looking for some info about a tippmann boss sowing machine. Currently I hand stitch my leather goods but I have started getting into harder projects that have gussets and accordions. I saw this tippmann boss is going to be auctioned off soon locally not sure if there’s any other leather working stuff. I know it’s hand operated and it’s been a long while since I’ve used a sowing machine in school. My questions are what would be a good price used? Also wondering about it’s size compared to say a cobra and what uses I can get out of it? I still want to hand stitch but looking to use this for harder areas like the gusset. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.

Thanks everyone I appreciate your feedback and complements. I’m just starting on my 3rd wallet now and I’m really enjoying this whole process. I may not be that old but I really don’t know why I didn’t start learning leather craft at an earlier age. But it goes to show your never to old to learn new things and I’m always learning something new every day.

Hello everyone my name is Landry and I haven’t been on in a while. I’ve been busy with other projects but I just got back to my leatherwork and I have some questions and I would like to show off my Second wallet. I’ve only been practicing on some cheap leather since mid 2020 I finally have some decent tools and I purchased a pattern for a wallet but I decided to make my wallets different so I refined the design of course I always have to make difficult designs. I purchased some nice Italian leather in 12”x12” sheets. 4oz for the back and 2 oz for the pockets. This time I decided to try a 1.5-2 oz leather for the pockets because the wallet with all the layers even after skiveing. I burnished My pockets on this wallet but because The pockets on my next wallet are much thinner I don’t know how easy it’s going to be to burnish them I am wondering does anybody else not burnish their pockets we’re have any trouble burnishing thiner leather. My edges don’t have that glass like finish Even after applying water tokenol and sandpaper five or six times and then wax, but they work for now. My stitching line isn’t the best I am having a little trouble with the leather being so sick and then it gets thinner and my line is not straight in that spot and also I’ve been punching from the pocket side so that I make sure I don’t hit the edge of a pocket but I would rather punch from the back I don’t know if anybody has any thoughts on that. what I did see was punching through the back leather and then laying the other leather next to it and punching that and then glueing the 2 pieces together but that doesn’t seem like it would be something I want to try. Any feedback suggestions would be very much appreciated thank you so much.

Thanks this is very helpful information and yes the picture shows how glass like your edges are. Very nice I will try this and see how it goes what do you use to die your edges?

So I'm still experimenting and on thing I found is the leather I'm using to prototype was cheap from Springfield but it's extremely dry I put neatsfoot on the edge and that seems to help. Maybe I should die my edges if I want something other than natural I practiced using the black tokenole and it gets on the front of my leather easy. I did one edge that turned out ok but I used the black tokenole more like an edge paint I let it dry and then I sanded it down with 1500 grit, kept applying dry and sand until I got a nice finish. I forgot I had a bar of Columbus wax but it's not much better than the beeswax. This is all I have at the moment after reading bobs edge finishing technic I will try some saddle soap but at the moment I cant purchase anything else. I will update you on my progress definitely trying to take my time on the edges Thanks again for the input.

I have a wood slicker I just saw this machine and thought I would try it out. I'm using natural veg tan to test on. I purchased Badalassi Carlo Minerva Smooth "Vacchetta" Veg Tanned Leather to build my wallet. Thanks

I don't have the heat machine just the electric burnishing Dremel like one.