Landry

I just looked up the singer 211 not a bad looking machine but I think I need a cylinder arm machine that comes with a table attachment. I think if I'm going to spend some money on a machine I might as well get something good. The cobra 26 has been on my list for a while just thought maybe I could start with something less expensive. Most of what I see is really close in price so a few extra dollars is worth the quality in my book.

Thanks I was looking at those same servo motors. They will work on the Pfaff 145 H4 I've seen a video about attaching one now I just need to find out what a good price for the Pfaff would be. I think that's going to be the way to go.

Hello all, I still have yet to purchase a sewing machine. I was looking at a tippmann boss at an auction last year but it got away from me. I haven't done very much leatherwork lately do to other projects needing finished. I was looking at the weaver master tool cub recently and I just don't think either option sounds that great. I have seen some posts on here about Pfaff 145 H4 and I just found one for sale a Pfaff 145 Industrial triple walking foot 4H LMN it's about $1300 shipped and its been restored. I'm not sure if it could be used manually it does not have a servo motor or a table. But then for a lower price I could get a new JUKI DDL-8700 INDUSTRIAL Sewing Machine + Table + Servo Motor for $799 shipped. I like the quality of the vintage machines but I'm not so sure about the price and then add for a servo and a table. I am using Vinymo MBT Thread - Size #5 - 60m it says its slightly thicker than machine thread size 138 which the Pfaff uses. I have been hand stitching on wallets but I will be doing only the interiors because it's pretty hard to go through thick leather and glue by hand for me. I also want to start making some bags purses so a machine that can handle that kind of stuff nothing really thick like holsters, any thin parts I will hand sew. Not sure how easy it would be to sew gussets and stuff that was one thing I liked about the master tool cub design. Any advice would be much appreciated thanks

Thanks much! She would be a good addition to my shop I will see what she goes for.

Thanks very true about the it’s mine mindset I’ve stopped bidding on things I knew I could get for less new.

Hello everyone I am looking for some info about a tippmann boss sowing machine. Currently I hand stitch my leather goods but I have started getting into harder projects that have gussets and accordions. I saw this tippmann boss is going to be auctioned off soon locally not sure if there’s any other leather working stuff. I know it’s hand operated and it’s been a long while since I’ve used a sowing machine in school. My questions are what would be a good price used? Also wondering about it’s size compared to say a cobra and what uses I can get out of it? I still want to hand stitch but looking to use this for harder areas like the gusset. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.

Thanks everyone I appreciate your feedback and complements. I’m just starting on my 3rd wallet now and I’m really enjoying this whole process. I may not be that old but I really don’t know why I didn’t start learning leather craft at an earlier age. But it goes to show your never to old to learn new things and I’m always learning something new every day.

Hello everyone my name is Landry and I haven’t been on in a while. I’ve been busy with other projects but I just got back to my leatherwork and I have some questions and I would like to show off my Second wallet. I’ve only been practicing on some cheap leather since mid 2020 I finally have some decent tools and I purchased a pattern for a wallet but I decided to make my wallets different so I refined the design of course I always have to make difficult designs. I purchased some nice Italian leather in 12”x12” sheets. 4oz for the back and 2 oz for the pockets. This time I decided to try a 1.5-2 oz leather for the pockets because the wallet with all the layers even after skiveing. I burnished My pockets on this wallet but because The pockets on my next wallet are much thinner I don’t know how easy it’s going to be to burnish them I am wondering does anybody else not burnish their pockets we’re have any trouble burnishing thiner leather. My edges don’t have that glass like finish Even after applying water tokenol and sandpaper five or six times and then wax, but they work for now. My stitching line isn’t the best I am having a little trouble with the leather being so sick and then it gets thinner and my line is not straight in that spot and also I’ve been punching from the pocket side so that I make sure I don’t hit the edge of a pocket but I would rather punch from the back I don’t know if anybody has any thoughts on that. what I did see was punching through the back leather and then laying the other leather next to it and punching that and then glueing the 2 pieces together but that doesn’t seem like it would be something I want to try. Any feedback suggestions would be very much appreciated thank you so much.

Thanks this is very helpful information and yes the picture shows how glass like your edges are. Very nice I will try this and see how it goes what do you use to die your edges?

So I'm still experimenting and on thing I found is the leather I'm using to prototype was cheap from Springfield but it's extremely dry I put neatsfoot on the edge and that seems to help. Maybe I should die my edges if I want something other than natural I practiced using the black tokenole and it gets on the front of my leather easy. I did one edge that turned out ok but I used the black tokenole more like an edge paint I let it dry and then I sanded it down with 1500 grit, kept applying dry and sand until I got a nice finish. I forgot I had a bar of Columbus wax but it's not much better than the beeswax. This is all I have at the moment after reading bobs edge finishing technic I will try some saddle soap but at the moment I cant purchase anything else. I will update you on my progress definitely trying to take my time on the edges Thanks again for the input.

I have a wood slicker I just saw this machine and thought I would try it out. I'm using natural veg tan to test on. I purchased Badalassi Carlo Minerva Smooth "Vacchetta" Veg Tanned Leather to build my wallet. Thanks

I don't have the heat machine just the electric burnishing Dremel like one.

I saw that same edge somewhere and It looks amazing I think it will take a while before I get to that point for sure. Pretty cool that we has something else in common. Thanks for the input everyone I did some sanding before I started burnishing but I think I need to do more also I saw somewhere that you need to let the gum trag dry before you slick I'm not sure about tokenole but I'm going to experiment some more and see. Thanks again.

Hello fellow leather enthusiasts my name is Landry. I just started learning leather craft about 3 months ago. I wish I would have started doing leather craft much sooner in my life but I’ve just been doing other things. I have seen several posts on this site and gotten some great information. I figured it was time for me to introduce myself and show off my project. This is not my first project that one is in the trash. I had found a free template for a bifold wallet online and it did not have a test page so when I printed it out from my phone it was not to 100% scale and by the time I finished it well it was good practice and only cheap grade b leather. Also I had bought some cheaper tools but I wish I had bought what I have now which is mid range and very nice quality some from KemovanCraft highly recommend. This bifold wallet I am making is a prototype at the moment. I wanted to do something that was different but not so far off that it didn’t work. You know don’t fix it if it’s not broken. But also why buy this wallet vs every other that looks about the same. In the process of my research and development drawing the pattern I learned something that I think some people overlook. Maybe it’s just me I’m pretty picky about details. I wanted this curved shaped corner and I found that the stitching would not look right so I spent a lot of time getting the right curve for my 4mm punches. I am testing out things before I use the good leather I bought. The first picture is another project I was trying out. The leather was cut died and then I burnished using a hand slicker with water, clear tokenole and beeswax. I really like how the edges turned out but on my second project the edges are pretty bad. I decided to try out black tokenole and I just got a summit edge burnishing machine from rocky mountain leather hoping it would help improve my edges. I know there are differing opinions about burnishing. I got a nice smooth finish with the water, I am using a medium speed on my machine I put the black on and the burnisher basically takes it off and it did spit some on my leather so I tried different speeds and added more coats of tokenole then I added beeswax and that kind of made it less smooth it's not very black and just doesn't look nice. I watched several videos and I think maybe use the machine for the water, wax and a rag for the tokenole. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but I am kind of down at the moment as I was very exited to to get started on this new wallet. I'm trying to take my time and I was thinking the burnishing tool would be a quick time saver but I had to tell myself there is no quality in rushing things. Any advice would be appreciated I’m a very friendly person and I look forward to conversing with you on here Thanks.