Farmfield

Hmm, ok, so it's a top-bottom sync issue... And I could move it 1-2mm, then it started binding up, and it's better, but not perfect. I think the bobbin case might be damaged, the edge on the slit is very sharp, almost protruding, so I'll get some fine sandpaper and soften that transition, I bet that'll sort the issue completely. I really appreciate the help. :D

What exactly does that do? It feels like that would change the timing..?

So when going around the bobbin, the top thread at times get stuck in the tension slit. Does anyone know what causes this problem? Cheers Johnny

So let's start off with me being pretty familiar with industrial sewing machine mechanics, but, and though the Singer 111 design is my absolute favorite, it's also a design I'm just not very good with, servicing... Now I got myself a noisy Juki 563. As far as I can tell the main issues are; a stuttery noise in the front, like the gears are too tight, and there's a "knobby" sound from the timing belt. But the shape of the gears and the belt seems fine, so I'm guessing it's all a question of adjustment. There's also a bit of a howl at faster speeds - something I've run across with several Juki 562/563's before - but never with Singer 111..? Anyone know why that is? I'm kinda thinking it might be the rubber belt vs the cleated belt in the Singer 111's that might be a factor. Not cheap to get a NOS cleated belt, though, but if it's that, I might put up the $75 for one - especially to get away from that knobby sound. And I've checked around a bit and watched some videos, but I haven't found anything about these specific problems. So yeah, any tips, links to good Singer 111/Juki 56x service resources, videos, etc, on this stuff would be much appreciated. Image for attention. Cheers. :D

It wasn't the hook it was the needle, and I got it sorted after some trickery. I can't seem to edit the original post, though... And yeah, great patchers. I've sold two (including this one today) and both has been great, after some messing about, getting them to sew well again.

So I'm in need for a new shuttle for a Claes RPX-2. (same as for Claes 200-2 and Claes 20) I messaged both Claes in Germany and some local suppliers, but it seems these are very pricey, so I thought I'd ask if anyone knows if any of the Singer 29k subclasses has a compatible shuttle? That should likely be way cheaper... And I'm in Sweden, so any tips on where to get one should preferable be within EU to get away from import charges, etc...

Just a question, is the 200 or RPX the never model?

It's 81. And I haven't found anyone in Europe offering 81 needles aside from size 90 which is a bit to small to be very useful. And here are some pictures and a demo video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kayQktM8KSnmLwe5A

Nadel 81. Good you brought this up. Any tips on replacement needles? As in, is there a more common needle close enough in size to be usable? I don't have any 81 needles so running it with a 135x17 mounted low right now. Sews like a dream, but pretty far from an optimal solution, haha...

Bobbin diameter is 14-15mm.

No clue on the subclass, I haven't found any markings on it, but it's one of the smallest bobbins I ever seen, though a bit taller than the Singer 29 ones, I think. As for shipping, this machine was imported from Germany through Poland on a pallet with 3 other leather machines, haha, so shipping is a non issue. It was bought for resale.

Sounds about what I get, so it is what it is, then. Any ideas where to get bobbins and/or bobbin case for this model? Else I got some milling, lathe work and soldering ahead of me...

Here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/69e1qLTaMdGQ444J8 And I made a leather block for the stitch adjuster, though not in these pictures. Only thing is max stitch length seems to be 5mm while the stitch length adjuster is between 0 and 10mm. Not sure why it maxes out at 5 - even with the leather block removed, thus allowing the accentric thingie to its lowest position...

Yeah, noticed the block was missing, made one a so now it works. :D

Edit: Solved. It looks like I'm missing some kinda rubber spacer thingie on the back. I need to understand the stitch length adjuster on the Claes patcher. On the one I have here I can only conclude it doesn't work, but I haven't been able to figure out how it works, mechanically, and it's hard to fix what I don't understand.

Yeah, I'm ready to give up on it for the Pfaff 545. It's just annoying as I have so much if it, but I just can't spend more time fighting this.

Btw, thread in all forms, beyond the domestic stuff, is really hard to source in Sweden. We really don't have a sewing industry here, so availability is very limited and what's available is very expensive.

I'm not that read up on thread, to be honest, but I get what you mean. That being said, comparing it to Gutermann thread I use without problem in the 545, the PolyArt thread isn't more elastic - but it's way more keen to split/unwind than the Gütermann thread is. You'd also think that, if that was the problem, it would differ a lot through the range of tension, right? Lower or higher overall tension (as in, both bottom and top) would make a big difference, and it doesn't... And funny enough, this is the most popular heavy thread offered by our biggest industrial sewing machine supplier here and they've carried this product for over 10 years. If this was a common issue, you'd think they would write something on their info page on it, but no... So friggin baffling, this.

No, this is vinyl and sewn with ballpoint needles. But I get this issue with other materials as well.

OK, "fast twist", that's a thing? One thought I've had is, as the bigger bobbin means the machine has to pull out and back i bit more thread than a machine with small bobbin. Mayby it's as simple as the problem rises from that slight difference..?

Yeah, I switched them to new ones. No difference. That's what fascinates me the most, nothing I've tried has really made a difference, haha...

It's loose, alright, very keen to untangling... The thing is, this is a big seller since a decade at one of Sweden biggest industrial sewing suppliers, I don't think it would he if it was generally problematic - and it's worked fine with everything but my 545 - I'm just trying to figure out why it doesn't work in the Pfaff. Even if I can solve it, it's good to know what's causing the issue...

So I got 10 unused spools of PolyArt 20 thread with a machine I bought, perfect colors for what I do, but for some reason I just can't get it to work with my Pfaff 545 - I get these weird kinks... I've tested this thread with a Durkopp 239, A Juki 562 and a Singer 111G156, and it works without problems on all of them, no problem getting great stitches. And this Pfaff 545 works perfectly with all thread I tested accept this PolyArt thread. So I tested a bunch of needle sizes, I've gone through the whole range of bottom and top tension, I played with the hook timing, I played with the needle position, I played with the bobbin case opener timing, I deburred the slot in the needle plate, it feels like I tried everything, but I just can't get good stitches with the PolyArt thread on the 545... It's driving me nuts - I just can't understand why it works in the other triple feed machines with horizontal bobbin but not with my Pfaff... And yeah, the top tension is a bit to high in the picture, but even with balanced or too low top tension, overall too low or too high tension, I still get these kinks in the thread... span widgetspan widget

Ok, so I'm hearing this conversion isn't very straightforward at all, haha, so I'd love to get a bit more information on the procedure as the hook assembly on my 145 is a tad rattly and if I'm replacing it, I might as well go for the 545 assembly and bobbin case - if it's not too much work switching them out...