LMP

Thank you! That is very helpful. I do have some thread that is 100% cotton. Should I worry using it with this machine? Thanks again. Your response was very informative. Thank you. This is very informative.

Hi all. I'm new to my Singer 111w155. In reading the manual which is for models 152-155, it describes normal threading for just models 152-154, and then there is a separate page showing the threading for the 155 model, which includes a thread lubricating cup that sits on top of the machine (see attachment). My machine doesn't have it, and from all my searches online, I don't see any other 155s that have it. Just curious, what is it, and does anyone know why the manual describe it as part of the 155 (not optional), yet all the 111w155s I see, don't have it either. Thanks!

ah, yes. 111. I meant to type that in my correction. Anyhow, thank you.

I meant to type Singer IIIw155, not iiiw155. Thanks.

Thank you.

Hi all, I just acquired a Singer IIIw155, and went online to get the parts manual, and found two. While most of the part numbers are the same, there are many with different part numbers. I get when there is a different letter at the end, maybe for different metal compounds used, but many have very different numbers. I made a pdf of the plates side by side. I started to highlight in pink all the part numbers that are different in the two manuals, but got tired of doing so after 5 pages. But, you can get the idea. I'm wondering if there is anything different. I tried to research if two parts (seemingly identical but with two different numbers) are inter-changeable, and apparently chatgpt thinks they are distinct parts with different functions. If you can, please see the pdf. I'd love to find out from which set of part numbers I should order and if there really is any difference. Also, I don't know what is in my existing machine, so not sure if I should worry about compatibility. Thanks! side by side of two different parts lists.pdf

Love the suggestions. Thanks.

I think is is BECAUSE the person doesn't have a background in chemistry or paint that they are asking on this forum how to do it. Seems like they are looking for someone who DOES have that background and already DOES make their own edge paint (without paying the really high premiums of many manufacturers) to help them figure out how to do it. No offense, but it seems obvious the person is not asking to be told to just go out and buy it.

Thank you. I will do that.

Hi. Does anyone know where I can find combination heel toplifts with the similarly cut rubber portion (angled across) with no dovetail? Like photo, but not JR. I have several clients asking for this look. Thanks!

Hi, I plan to swap these two belt straps, and I am new to working with leather. I plan to use a saddle stitch. Can anyone recommend what thread would match the original in terms of weight, text, size, brand, etc.? Also, I may end up dying the brown strap black at some point in the future, so non-synthetic thread that will take dye would be great. Thanks.

I always hear that mixing Fibings and Angelus dyes has bad results. I am wondering what that result is? a color issues, bad chemical reaction, etc. Same for SUEDE dyes? I am wondering because I need to darken my only green suede dye (Angelus), and the Fiebings Suede Black just happens to lean green, and very similar to the hue I desire. It would be just perfect if I could add that instead of the Angelus Black which leans a totally different way. I tried a swatch and it seemed to work.. wondering if there really is a bad result, and is it something that would show up later?... like causing the dye to do weird things as it cures, etc... Thank you. I would love to hear from someone with first-hand experience. Thank you.