Hi all,
Longtime lurker, I have benefited a lot from the knowledge on here, it is time to ask for help on a specific matter.
I recently got a Durkopp Adler 269-373 from, after many years of hand sewing.
It is set up with 140/22 needles and I'm using #135 thread(EU 20). The dealer advised me to use 105(30) for the bottom thread, which I did for a bit but switched to same as top as it was problematic when sewing was visible both sides. That took a little bit of tinkering with tension to get right.
I am working on a tote bag design and managed to sew the side panels to the base with few issues, just a couple of stitches in the run are a little more diagonal and loose (see pic).
That was on roughly 4mm total thickness, 2mm suede and 2mm (probably)combination tan , medium temper.
I want to sew a part of the handle that is going to be about 6mm thick, 2 pieces of 3mm of the combination tan leather, so I did some test run on scrap pieces.
It's all over the place, bottom thread is pulling the top thread though and tinkering with the tension dial hasn't made any difference, even tried loosening the spring on the bobbin case, to no avail.
From what I understand this machine shouldn't have any issues sewing with this weight of thread, or these thicknesses of leather, I'm pretty sure the needles are right for the thread size, not sure what's going wrong..
Also, when backstitching I often get a big mess of thread at the bottom (see pics) and occasionally when I start a stitch run it messes up on the first two stitches and if I continue it knocks the timing out so I need to block the hook assembly and operate the handwheel in reverse until it clicks into place.
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Apostolos