Kristian

I don’t know whether if has a safety clutch or not. But I found out by accident that it was possible to reset the hook timing by fixing the bobbin house by hand whilst manually turning the wheel… So I found a position on the hook vs needle that looked ok, and tried a few stitches, which went fine. If possible I would like to fasten the bobbin house a bit more…

Today when spooling thread onto the bobbin, I forgot to remove the thread from the needle, hence made a thread salad in the bobbin housing. I managed to remove it, but the machine wouldnt stitch afterwards. I found out that the hook timing was waaay off, probably as far off as possible. I also found out that I was able to time it back just by holding the house whilst manually cranking the wheel. This tells we that there is something wrong somewhere, and I shouldn’t stitch until something is fastened. Appreciate any help.

I have now tested this and found 138 thread to be the thickest possible for this machine (at least with factory settings). The stitches look best with the 140 needle, although I can also use a 160 needle without the hook crashing into it. If I want stitches thicker than that, I will either do some saddle stitching, or blow the dust off my Singer 7-33 that I bought a year ago but actually have not tried yet

Tusen takk Tor! (thank you Tor!) I have ordered 138 Weaver thread from Skinnlåven, and 160 needle from Amatec. I’ll let you know how that works. I don’t know the sub class as the sticker on the rear side is partly torn off.. -Kristian

Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated. @Trox, I see you have a DA 267, and have had a 67 as well. Do you know what maximum size needle and thread I can practically push out of my DA K268, and still be able to use the 110 needle and 69 thread without using wrenches...? I am not sure which subclass, but I believe it is one that is listed with needle range NM110-140, because it has 6mm stitch length.

Thanks @kgg! I am not sure which sub class my machine is, because the sticker on the back is partly torn off. Is the sub class given in any other way than with a sticker? I suspect my sub class is for 110-140 needles, as it was set up with 134-35 LR / size 110 needles when I bought it... Is there anyone who have managed to squeeze 160 needle and 207 thread out of such machine? Of course I would like to be able to still sew with 69 thread without other modification than replacing needle and thread...

Thanks @Wizcrafts! I will try with 160 needle and see how that works.

Hi. I have an Adler K268 post bed sewing machine which I have used to sew shoe uppers with (110 needle and #69 thread). I want to be able to sew a bit heavier stuff as well (decorational belt stitches and structural bag stitches), therefore I have bought 140 needles and #207 thread. My problem is that it wont stitch. With 69 thread on the bobbin it just makes a big mess. With 207 thread on the bobbin, the hook won’t pick up the thread. Maybe I need to move the bobbin housing to the right ever so slightly? In that case, how do I do this? Appreciate any advice on how to make this work.

I’ve handstitched a couple of boot uppers with 6spi. Guess it’s ok for boots, would go up on formal shoes

Ok thanks for the prompt reply

This helped on my Singer 29K3. It skipped 10% of the stitches, but not after moving the needle a mm to the right

Hi! I got a 1920 Singer 29K3 for christmas and wonder if it it possible to fit this with a roller foot as many use for making shoe uppers? I am totally new to machine sewing, however this machine seems for me to be in great condition. At least it does not skip stitches and I can adjust the stitch length from barely nothing to about 5mm. I am aware of some of the limitations with this machine (small bobbin, and leather marking), but I’d like to start machine sewing with this before I jump into something better and more expensive. It’s just for hobbywork anyways.