Wilitrun

Alright, let me break it down for you. How was I supposed to take this comment? When was the last time you welcomed a new member to the forums, politely? When was the last time you passed by a thread started by a new member, knowing you had the answer they needed, and just let it sit there? I came in here trying to contribute something interesting based on a photo some harebrained seller managed to accidentally upload backwards. Sideways pictures I see all the time, but backwards? I'm not going to bother asking him. The photo looks grainy enough to me I didn't catch the backwards writing. If you want to know how to point that out without getting into a fight, take a look at how the others handled it and you might learn something. It's not hard. That photo would have fooled you too at some point in your life and your 4794 posts started with just one. Try not to forget that. I'm outta here, hope you had yourself a nice laugh.

Making fun of a new member and talking like he isn't in the room IS rude. So the image is flipped, how about that. I guess that makes you an expert on hand-cream too. I'm sure that has NOTHING to do with your winning personality.

That's really unkind and rude. Good luck with your restoration project. If I buy this thing I'll know better than to come back here and try to make friends over it.

Hi OJD, I'm sorry to say I'm not having much luck getting information here either. I did a Google search, and it took me to a thread started on this forum in 2013: By my count, there are at least three members in that thread with an identical machine, and at least two of them now have a copy of the manual. Try reaching out to them. If it looks anything like the one in the picture on that thread, it's beautiful and I hope you get the info you need. The thread has been revived a few times now, so there must be some interest! Good luck.

Hi Constabulary and other interested members, I came across this specimen in the local classifieds and immediately thought of this discussion. Here's a left stand domestic Kenmore machine, not sure of the model as the picture quality isn't great and there's just the one of course, I've had Kenmores in the corner of my eye as I've been looking for a C877/07 - it's the one my mom had and the first machine I ever tinkered with, just four years old. Not to digress from the thread subject too much but Canadian Kenmores were white-label manufactured from completely different supply chains in Europe than their American counterparts, so are both different and quite a lot more rare. The existence of a left-stand household machine with zigzag cams in an already limited Canadian market certainly seems to suggest some thought was given to left-dominant operators (though it's already been pointed out this might prove an advantage in right-stand machines anyway so it's possible the engineering team made a gut decision here rather than a rational one). I already have two household machines here that I don't need, so if I manage to dump them I might drag this home to enjoy as an art object. It's been listed for 25 weeks...

A closeup of the perforating tube that came with the machine as well as the interchanging collet. The tube appears pressed in, but all these pieces would have to be changed to move to a different broguing pattern. Each piece is indexed with a small dowel pin to each other, and the perforator bar action.

Hi, a quick update. I did rescue this machine and brought it home. I still have not been able to identify the manufacturer, but it comes up briefly int he following subforums: As it turns out, the unit does have one perforating tube installed, looks to be about the same size as lace holes, and there were about a dozen full rolls of anvil paper included, so I went for it. Beautiful piece of iron. The spacer adjustment jumps out of position and the presser foot is bent, as well as the collet being damaged, so it's not exactly a gimme. If anyone has any information to help me save this machine and put it back to work, it would be appreciated.

Hi all, I saw a leather perforator come up locally for sale, and the seller is very reasonable, but the machine does not seem to come with the interchangeable punches for creating different broguing patterns. I've looked deeply on this site and have seen it discussed before, a couple of our members seem to have the same model, I wonder if anyone recalls where and if the tooling can be still bought anywhere. As you can imagine it would be pretty neat to be able to add broguing as an edge detail on leather with a machine like this. Here's a picture - you can see the paper ribbon that feeds under the platform for saving the cutting edge of the punches as they pierce the leather. This one has a badge identifying it as a Montreal Shoe Co. Model 50, but I'm pretty sure this was made white-label for that company by another manufacturer, possibly Peerless (although if someone here knows better please feel free to set me straight). The seller's made clear that it's going to the scrap otherwise, and I'd really like to rescue it but only if I can make a working machine out of it does it make any sense to bring this heavy (but beautiful) machine home. Thanks!

I don't know if this will help anyone, but I received my order of parts for my 562 from Kava in Montreal (excellent service!) and the size of the guide loop is identical on the new part but the bracket positions it about 10mm lower on the body, seemingly to allow for the different swing of the lever.

Thank you, this is outstanding. Is the only difference between the 0A0 and BA0 hooks the profile of the gib, or is there anything else I'd need to modify to make the 0A0 work with thick thread?

Thanks guys, appreciate the concern. Vinito's thread does a great job detailing the steps involved, so I'm already up to speed on what's needed. Have you done the conversion with an aftermarket hook assembly, and if so what brand did you go with and were there any quality issues I should know about? The cheap Evernice ones are $21USD for a hook and ten bobbins with the genuine Juki ones topping $300 from some sources so there must be some differences but I don't want to waste even $21 on a hook that won't work. Thanks.

Hi all, Converting a LU-562 to U bobbin, heavy thread, flat gib hook. (BA0 suffix) I'm trying to choose a hook assembly that will be of good enough quality for my purposes. I'm not doing professional, high-volume work, but auto upholstery with leather and vinyl at home. I was told by someone more experienced than I that there are hook assemblies made in Italy but have been unable to find any online. I can't justify spending the money for a genuine Juki hook but I'm suspicious of the ultra cheap Evernice, Kunpeng etc. Chinese units and I'm wondering if some of you with extended flight time on converted machines can direct me to a brand that gives good service or provide feedback about the various sources out there. I would not want to use a poorly manufactured hook as a reference when machining the saddle as the alignment is so critical during this step. I've been studying Vinito's conversion thread with great interest but this is a detail that affects the conversion cost wildly and I'd prefer to only have to do it once without overspending. Thanks for any advice.