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    Tailoring, Horses

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  1. Looks like an interlock topstitch on a shuttle stitch seam. Common on old jersey sportswear, but in that application you have a spreader thread on top If you look closely it looks as if there are loops on the wrong side typical of chainsewing machines. Union special made feed up the arm machines for top stitching seams like this, i.e. needle plates, feed dogs and presser feet for shaping the seam allowance like this. Never seen it in leather though but the machines are more than capable of garment weight leather.
  2. In those small concentrations (i.e. 5%) it is not harmful. It is harmful to some chrometanned. Not veg tan.
  3. Its for wax container on machine. I do't like nears foot oil. Or any oil on leather.
  4. Hi. I tried buying wax solution to no avail (without ordering from the US). I would like to avoid solvents so I did a 5 minute google "research". It turned out borax can emulsify beeswax. Since I have no impulse control whatsoever I made some emulsion. I'm gonna test it in my machine later. A bit thicker than water, like cream. What I did was: -one part bees wax -one part 10% (by weight) borax solution. I used tap water, probably better with distilled. Heat both, until the wax has melted in a water bath. Recipe said to 70 degrees centigrade (no idea what that is in freedom units™️) but my wax melted at 78 degrees. In a third likewise heated container mix the two under vigorous stirring. Keep stirring until 40 degrees centigrade. Obviously it's an emulsion, just gotta test if it's good as a wax. Please try and see if it works for you.
  5. Yes, needle feed. Also has a little extra guide bar below the needle plate which pushes on the needle. The bobins are like a small thread spool. Two discs on a hollow axle. I can make a video when I get the time. Max. Stitch length is rather short, about 6-7 mm. Foot lift is good tho.
  6. Yes, excellent. Thanks to the manual I managed to get mine up and running. Or, maybe more like I prioritised it. Now I need a supply of needles. I'm running low on 45 degree cutting point needles. Attached a photo of my machine. (Annoying file size limit, we're not living in the age of fax modems anymore). Not my fudgy looking weld on the cracked base! I can do it better than that!
  7. @samadlingtonleather Yes please do that. Sent you a pm with my mail
  8. Wizcrafts, all your positive response in virtually EVERY thread on needle and awl machine is about to hurt my economy, my relation and my peace of mind.
  9. Thank you for answers. I will try. I have an australian stock saddle with a attachment thingy for a crupper. I think it will help my saddle from creeping forward during steep descents. Yes, I also need to awl it and restuff it.
  10. Hello, I'm looking for patterns for a crupper. Does anyone have one?
  11. I'm still trying to find a manual for BUSM pilot sewing machine. Anyone?
  12. Heinke or Martin/Price. Hasluck I have.
  13. Singer industrial has most manuals and part lists online.
  14. I operate and manage a knitting mill as my 'day job', we use a lot of binders for various seaming operations on knitted apparel. From my experience, there is no field where the old saying 'you get what you pay for' is more true than binders. The amount of time I've spent desperately trying to file, bend and braze bad binders is something I would like not to Think off. We only buy suisei (japan) or rimoldi (italy) these days. Make sure you buy the right 'gauge' for what you're gonna sew. Otherwise the tape will cause a drag, and you will get a really bad finish. On Machines for knits there is almost Always a differential that you can adjust to somewhat counter the drag from the tape, but it can't rectify even modest faults caused by bad binders. We buy some from college sewing machine parts as mentioned above. They're a real gem for sure. We also deal a bit with local machine dealers, not really good prices, but we get binders that do exactly what we want them to do, and they can be used 12+ hours a day without moving around, causing drags, or even worse, production stops. We also want to have local machine businesses around, so by buying locally we're voting with our wallets. Long time ago when I started out I bought a few cheap binders without really knowing what I was gonna use them for, they're all scrapped now. No use. If you're sewing as a hobby, by all means, go ahead and buy a few cheap ones to figure out your needs, but if you're serious and wanna do it as a business, I can't see any other way than forking out for professional Tools. We have made a few ourselves, but to be honest, it's cheaper to have them custom made than to make them ourselves, at least for us. (My browser keeps capitalising random Words, sorry for that)
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