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Gulrok

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  1. So somehow I got down a rabbit hole and started reading about these machines. Whats the advantage to them? Why would I, or someone, want a union lock over a standard sewing machine?
  2. I actually spoke to the seller from eBay on that model prior to purchasing. My concern was the shipping time as in my experience, it has been over a month. He said he'd happily ship freight which would be an extra $70ish on shipping. I couldn't bite the bullet for the bracket when it really isn't rocket science IMO. With that being said. I haven't found if the LS-341 parts are compatible with the LS-1341 binder. I can't even find where to purchase that binder.. but I would be interested in playing with it.
  3. We likely lost meaning over text, I apologize if I offended you. I took your post as a "cool but someone already did it" which is probably not what you meant. So my post was in response to that.
  4. That doesn't appear to be the Techsew 2750 to me... which my issue is that it is unsupported for leatherbinding attachments. (They do offer cloth folders on their website). Does Cechalfo really have me covered?
  5. Hey. I've been wanting to either find a binder bracket for a techsew 2750 or purchase a dedicated for binding. After doing a ton of research I haven't been able to find anything I can guarantee that would work for the machine and the ideal binding machine an alder 205-370 is waaay out of our price range for used right now. So today I custom fabbed a bracket that should work.. and sure enough it does. Its rough, and this is the first rendition.. but I'm using chicago screws I had in stock and a consew 225/226 binder from ebay. https://imgur.com/gallery/6mxWZ6x
  6. Hi guys Looking to get into edge binding the interior seams of my bags. I'm looking to line them and don't really like the idea of the raw cloth edge being exposed. I jerry rigged up an edge binding attachment for a Consew 225/226 to the machine by superglueing a little plate with female threads to a ruler (drilling the ruler) and then screwing the attachment to the plate. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CONSEW-225-226-Singer-111G-111W-211G-211U-211W-RAW-TAPE-BINDER-WIDE-MOUTH-CHOOSE/391723527924?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=660791873171&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Here is the attachment which I purchased. Now it worked ... ok for a little while. However, the super glue probably only held for 15 or so minutes before it stressed and broke off. Its what I expected considering it was just a little prototype. I'm checking in before trying to make a better one, but has anyone solved the edge binding solution on a techsew 2750? I see they offer a different version but its likely not for leather binding tape and cloth instead. I'm trying to bind with leather.
  7. Sorry. I didn't specify. I just disagree with the slow price hike. I use to do something similar, but I actually found that I slowly lost a bit of business with it. Actual with belts as that's my main product. We raised our prices a few dollars, and lowered our conversion rates, resulting in more hand/thumb twiddling and less making. A few dollars affected us that much. Things like that is why we've now built shipping cost into every product and offer "freeeeee shipping"!!! Because we were finding that people didn't care about a lower product price as long as they free shipping. We'd have a $100-$200 abandoned cart over $7 shipping. That's why I was recommending the A/B product testing IF possible. Because most of what we think is all anecdotal until scientifically proven.
  8. I agree with a lot of what you said, but I also disagree. I agree that you need to price your products comparable to other products. For example. Leather belts are my bread and butter. We charge $40 and $45 for buffalo, $60 and $65 for English Bridle from the US, and $80 and $85 for the English Bridle from the UK. However, I'm priced competitively around belts that are sold at 'higher' end department stores in the $40-$65 range. SOLID. However. Here is the difference to your strategy. You talk about a slow price hike. It depends on how much you sell, but if you're selling regularly you should be A/B testing your product pricing. If a belt takes 15 minutes to make, costs $10, and sell $60 and you make 5 a week. Does it make sense to raise your prices to $80, and sell 3 a week, or lower your prices to $40, and sell 10 a week. Does the price of your product actually have any indication on how many will sell? The answer is... we have no idea until we test. Pricing should be tested if you have the ability to do so. (High enough volume). For example. I'm reading this book right now https://www.amazon.com/Making-Websites-Win-Customer-Centric-Methodology-ebook/dp/B076XSCTB2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=making+websites+win&qid=1595139169&sr=8-3 and in the book they talk about an experience they have selling travel phones during a declining market. ( I'm using arbitrary numbers for this example because I don't remember the exact specifics ). They A/B test the price of a phone by say selling it for $0, selling it for $40 and selling it for $75. Well $40 and $75 sold the same amount of phones. Showing that the price is not indicative on the value of the phone. However, $0 sold less phones. They inferred it may be because people saw a product at $0 as less valuable, or that there is some kind of catch with it. Literally all 3 phones were the exact same. They were able to increase profits by raising the phone to $75 in the end and it didn't even cost them sales. My point is you need to test your product out for pricing if you can get the volume. Obviously selling 1 or 2 belts a week, you'd never be able to get the data needed. -- My last point is that you need to have a prospective buyer. Are you making concealed carry holsters for NYC businessmen in suits (please don't awful idea.. check NYC gun laws...)? Or fine leather gentlemen top hats for Southern Hillbillies? You have to have a niche that isn't super super defined, but has a general population to it. Maybe, concealed carry holsters, or fine leather gentlemen top hats. That may be niche enough for you.
  9. We're sewing like a dream again. Thank you.
  10. I think we're onto something.. EDIT: Yes I know this isn't a 225, but the concept should be similar.
  11. Yeah. I'm a little bit on edge about it. It makes you want to rip your hair out. At least me. I'm a pretty technical person. I've rebuilt numerous motorcycle engines, lawnmowers, and other mechanical things. No problem at all. If I get stuck. I can find a parts diagram or a manual somewhere. But these sewing machines. Ugh. I have the scarf in the right spot. Replaced the needle as well. I have the hook approximately 0.5m to 1mm from the needle (in the scarf) although I'm using a business card to measure that. (When I removed the jam, I removed the hook and bobbin assembly). I spent time polishing the hook because it did have a burr on the end. The timing has the hook crossing the needle at the bottom of the needle stroke. I still will go good forward, but now I get the occasional skipped backstitch. It is now catching the thread again. But ocassionally it'll
  12. I've seriously had it with this machine. I want to throw it off a cliff. We've never had great sewing with it. I'll mess with it for hours. It'll work nicely, and then it won't again. In September/October we had a lot of tensioner issues until we just bought a genuine JUKI tensioner. In Feb I had an issue with jamming. In March we learned we needed leather sewing needles 135x16 instead of 135x17. We fixed our problems.... In April we had the control box pop a capacitor. It was nearly a month before we had another control box. We had a wonderful few months from May to now, where the sewing machine was totally reliable. It was fantastic. It would sew fine. Last week it started skipping stitches. I didn't have any projects that needed to be done with the machine until this week, so I figured I'd wait since we were going to be out of town. Today, won't even sew anymore. Threading gets jammed in the bobbin area that will bind the whole machine or It'll pickup the thread for a stitch or two and then nothing. I'm lost for words. I really just want this thing to work. I feel like its a constant problem. -- Looking through the manual that comes with the book... it doesn't quite help me. There isn't a lot in the book about this machine.
  13. Looking for firefighter/EMT radio strap holster patterns. Does anyone have one?
  14. Where did you find it? Is it on etsy or another website? Its likely best for us to see the entire listing.
  15. Definitely another good option. I've been sure to put a clean rag over my rolled belts currently. To keep them stored, I use to roll them, grain side out, and use a rubberband. Wasn't a happy camper when I found that they had a rubberband line. Now I have been rolling them flesh side out, and covering the box with a cloth. Seems to have worked. But I only use it for belts of the same type. Now we have .... well somewhere closer to 36 different straps. 18 different leathers at 1.25" and 1.50". ( 8 buffalo, 5 domestic english bridle, 5 UK english bridle). I like the idea. Appreciate it.
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