tsunkasapa

One of the things I learned steaming and bending parts for dog sleds is that air dried lumber is far superior to kiln dried. The way it was explained was that kiln drying also uses vacuum to help remove the moisture and collapses the cells. I don't know if that is true, but there is a very real difference in results.

That's why we have grandsons!

Yes, obviously WE have been doing it wrong all these decades.

In 35 of saddle stitching, I have never had the backstitching work loose. And that includes collars and harness repairs for working sled dogs. And those guys give those items some serious use.

I use Saddle Tan on 95% of my projects. It's been my go to for years.

That is exactly what it's all about.

It shows he was on here yesterday, but I haven't seen anything that he's posted since January.

Stoopud teknologee! This stuff is supposed to make life EASIER.

Saw this on Face Book. It didn't seem to be getting much traction there either.

I blame a lot on THE 60s. And the 70s are pretty fuzzy as well.

I left mine raw wood. But I have 24x32 marble slab and a 24x36 cutting board, so very little wood shows.

Al Stohlman's book shows ow to design them from scratch.

I found this to be hilarious.

I've never dealt with Alum tanned other tan boot laces. And as I said, I don't use 'sealers'. But try the resolene on some scrap. Sno Seal might be an option as well.