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About adventureleather

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  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Dog, Leather, Photography and Jeeps

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Dog Gear and Learning Bags
  • Interested in learning about
    Bag Making
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  1. Thanks Glenn I was thinking the same. Though I’m confused because Juki does list 138 to work. The shop was having issues with thinner thread too a so they’re trying to solve it. Thread is getting cut. Something is out I’m guessing.
  2. Thanks I’ll ask if needed. I did see chris once for some needles and foot and he was expensive. At the time I didn’t check and just grabbed them. Didn’t like that. Best to know what I’m getting next time before I pay.
  3. Thanks Kgg, yes I did see that. I have 138 vinymo only right now and the issue persists. Might have to get some eyes on it to try and resolve this. I was thinking that too. Some fresh parts may be something to try. There's a place in Brampton that stocks parts and repairs. Luckily it's not completely broken just not functioning and making leather work unfun haha. Thanks for the input!
  4. Thanks so much! That did the trick so far. I was able to move the feed dog over to clear the hook during the rotation. Now the original issues persists. I have some videos I’ll share to show. The notch in my throat plate doesn’t leave enough room for the thread to nicely pass by and form the knot. It snags and pulls leaving a bad bottom stitch. Since it is used I wonder if the throat plate is an off make and the notch isn’t normal size. I did try the lever adjustment to position the groove in Uwe’s video but thought no luck. Thanks again!
  5. Hello, Hoping to find the great sewing machine minds for some help. I have a used Juki 1341 and the hook is hitting the feed dog and needle. It seems like there is not enough space for it to turn and pass the needle. Is there an adjustment to slide the hook assembly? The main issue I had before this was that the thread was binding on the notch as it passes to form the knot. The thread would snag there, clunk and pull up. This made the tension off and knots were not formed. Thread is 207. So far I have gone through the timing sequences and needle bar height. Everything looks good there if it didn’t hit the feed dog or needle. I will get some videos but for now thought I would start with this. Thanks for the help!
  6. Hello, for sale are various colours of Aaman Serabond Sewing Machine thread. Great for leather work or other types of sewing that require a strong thread with UV resistance. All spools have been lightly used, about 3/4 left on them maybe more. Relicate has them for 25US new, selling for 20$ per spool CAD. Buyer can pay shipping. Colour codes are listed in the photo if you want to see the exact colour you can check their site. Size is 210/207. Only selling them because I no longer have the machine I used them for and have moved to a waxed thread. They are located in Ontario Canada so they will ship out of this location. Thanks!
  7. Very true and good point to mention and take note of. To be fair the spring I forgot was changed and adjusting the hook spring was only to gain more tension below from a separate issue that fixed it. It still works with this spring but I had too much tension from top and bottom (made the bobbin too tight). A lot of little details gets lost in text typing too. One thing I noticed from the machine is that it is easy to jump around trying to see what happened that like you say easy to forget what was changed. Leather craft is full of lessons learnt.. too many haha
  8. Hi everyone, I have a good update that is hopefully the cause of my issues. Techsew here in Canada was super great in helping me. As have all of you here in this thread. I made a custom spring for the stirrup plate and left it in thinking I was doing myself a favour with softer chrome leather to not have the foot tension so tight. So I put back the lower compression spring that I got from techsew and added some tension to keep the material in place better. We also adjusted the center foot to walk better. Timing from my side of doing it was good. Next thing we worked on was my tension on top and bottom. Since I was having bottom tension issues a few weeks back I bent the hook spring a bit to give more latitude on top. Well seems my top tension knobs were way too tight and that made the bottom tighter too. This caused the thread to be too tight when the knot was formed pushing the material forward. Mixed with not enough foot pressure and we have what the video shows. I will also try sanding very lightly away the paint in the machine as Brian mentioned to have everything sit better and maybe give me some room with the hook and needle. But timing here helped too. I hope this information can help someone else in the future that might run into similar issues with this 441 type of machine. I really thank the problem solving of the tech at Techsew and thank you all for your input here too. It is much appreciated. The only benefit from having issues with your machine is that you know so much about it haha. At least I learned a lot from my mistakes. Happy sewing!!
  9. Good idea Ok here it is. 0 feed movement with the shuttle in place. From what I think the needle is late coming to the feed. I re-timed and to my low experience it seems ok. It does sew well and reverse stitches are consistent and in each hole. But the feed timing seems off to me. But have a look at this video. Longer stitch moves the material back as the feed moves and needle is up. It kind of looks like the feed pushes the thread forward but I don't know..I don't have the experience to know what I am looking for. This is the narrow feed and plate on there. Good idea about the paint. my race does install tightly. I will check behind the shim. Uwe thanks for your shuttle video nice info in there. I am chatting with the place I got my machine currently so I will see what they suggest as well from the videos. Thanks all!
  10. Great manual to have thank you for sharing! Figure 16 might be what I need to adjust after timing if the needle doesn’t meet the top of the feed at the same time?
  11. Thank you all for the suggestions! I’m going to digest them tonight and see if I have some time to adjust. I see that shim now very interesting. I love learning about the machine I just wish there was a manual that explained all of what each component actually does. This would make troubleshooting so much easier. I just don’t know what to adjust. I had some good results with re-timing the 3/16” bdc way to the hook so which put the hook by the scarf instead of the tip after a kind phone call. My only issue so far is that the needle does not meet the feed dog and centre foot all at the same time. Do all three meet above the feed all at the same time? Is there a way to adjust the needle bar rotation to match the feed dog? It seems like once you adjust one the other goes out so there maybe is a way that I don’t know. I’ll share a video once it’s all times to show where I’m at. Appreciate the help here!
  12. Hello, I hoping there might be some experienced sewers here that can have a look and help me out with my machine. It is a 441 clone and I have noticed the needle is being hit/pushed to the left side but the hook. It is not the deflector. I have tried and tried to re-time based on UWE's video and Al Bane's videos. Both of their methods seem like different results so I am not sure if it is my machine or what. I was close to fixing the issue a bit but using Al's methods with 3/16 from bottom dead center to adjust the hook to the needle. And by having the needle bar height adjusted with bottom center and eye of the needle above the deflector bottom. This puts the hook about middle of the scarf. Then if the hook clears on the needle coming down, the needle will brush the shuttle behind the hook indent. Lastly, I noticed with my last re-timing attempt the material would get pushed forward by the tension/knot forming. So as the center foot rises at the end of the stitch to move forward, the thread forming the knot pushes the material forward. Any sort of help or tips you can provide would be great. I am trying to get some help from the place I purchased it from but emails back and forth are proving to take too long and not helpful. Trying to talk to them soon. Thanks! Hook Hitting Needle Shuttle View Hook Hitting Needle
  13. Oh interesting. I wonder how round the edges of the plate could get. Not having to fuss with the feed each time would be a big time saver. But that’s a good idea too, I’ll have to make sure my designs fit what I am able to sew first.
  14. I’ll have to get a photo. I got the plate and gave it a try. It works well for the corners of a pouch or curve gusset but changing the plate would be a pain I think over time (enter multiple machines haha) so I may leave it. I did get a right foot though which helps on the standard curve throat for the tighter gusset a bit. I know others who make bags and don’t change the plate so I am still trying to test. The one test I did do was great with the plate but again I wonder long term if it’s not worth changing the machine settings for. Do you sew gussets with yours?
  15. I am learning that with everything leather making, there are no absolutes haha. Right from the leather used there have to be tolerances that can be allows for. So far I ground down and polished the centre foot for a smooth bottom and no indent from the groove, lower tension spring for the presser foot shaft, and also polished the edges of the walking feet. Rounded the throat plate edges and taped the corner too. My next task is trying out your plate and also a stirrup plate is on order for trying to get into gussets. Mainly simple seam but also lap seam is nice on the front which just doesn’t work well on the flat throat plate. It’s been a journey but I’m almost there! Haha.
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