ethereal

Will look into this. Thank you

@Uwe @Wizcrafts Thought either of you might have some insight given your responses on my previous posts

Please see the attached photo. When I stitch using my pfaff145 h3, my bobbin thread comes out shorter than my top thread. Can anyone give insight as to how I can make my bobbin thread come out looking the same as my top thread? I am using Size 110/18 needle TRI needle with T70 thread in both the top and the bobbin

Got it. Thank you for your help. Will touch base if I have any follow up questions.

Any knowledge on what these srews in the back do as well? @Uwe

Im a bit confused. Can you see the attached pic and let me know if im understanding all the parts you listed correctly?

Coming back to this. I lifted up the machine head and brought the knee lift all the way to the left before lowering it back down. It now works with a good amount of pressure, however I would like to know if there is a way to make it work with less pressure? From what I have seen online of other knee lifts, it should be working in the first range of motion, where it is only working in the second range of motion as shown in the video below. New video: https://streamable.com/7dhqp3

https://streamable.com/q0kbfs https://streamable.com/k86ewd Please see the linked videos above. (I wasnt able to attach them here as the file sizes are too big) I have a PFAFF 145 H3 and need some assistance in troubleshooting the knee lifter. It does not seem to work at all, and I am not really sure where to start looking for problems as this is my first time encountering a machine with a knee lift. Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance

thank you

interestingly enough, that worked. Thanks @fibersport!

Thank you - ill try putting the cover back on and see what happens. Anywhere I can learn more about timing? I heard the term before but im not sure what it means in relation to my machine.

@Wizcrafts - patching you in here as you seemed to have the answers to all my previous questions ive posted lol!

I recently came across an issue with thread breaking/knotting with my Pfaff 145 H3. Im using tex 60 thread in both the upper threading as well as the bobbin, with a 110/18 needle to accompany (ive tried 100/16 as well). Here is an imgur link to a video of me handcranking the machine - I unfortunately couldnt upload the video as an attachment here as I exceeded the file size limit - https://imgur.com/a/mByhkyW As shown in the video, the thread jams afters a couple of cranks (timestamp is 0:10 seconds left in the video). In trying to automatically sew (i.e, turn the machine on and sew), I get the same issue - thread breaking and knotting after 2-3 stitches. The issue originally started after I noticed some of the bobbin thread was showing in my top stitches. No biggy, right? Well, to remedy this, I followed the manual provided by Pfaff and tried loosening the upper tension as well as tightening the bobbin tension to no avail. After messing around on both ends for a bit, the thread began to jam as you can see in the video. I've continued to adjust both tensions to see if I could get back to square one (loosening/tightening both threads) to no avail as well. Ive also tried cleaning out the bobbin, re-threading both the bobbin and upper thread, and re-screwing the upper tension. Any ideas as to what can be causing this?

Thanks guys. I adjusted the wing screw and as Wizcrafts pointed out, Im only getting about 1/16in less clearance when sewing (which is still better than nothing). I appreciate the help.

ie. I want to make my machine move more like some of the newer walking foot machines (such as a sunstar km 340) that almost push through garment leather like a normal lockstitch machine would.

I think I remember hearing somewhere that the knob I have pictured on the back of my pfaff 145 allows the walking foot to raise higher/lower in sewing when the knob is moved up/down, however Id like to confirm with someone here before I go messing around with my machine.

Ah that makes a lot of sense. Ive got an H3 and it is embossed onto the tag so I believe I should be good to try #207. A follow up question for your Singer, do you use that for sewing lining onto leather as well (for leather jackets, pants etc.), or would you use your walking foot in that case? Additionally, would you base the needle you would use on the lining fabric, or the leather?

Im wondering if anyone is aware of what the minimum and maximum thread sizes are for the Pfaff 145 Model H3? I saw another post on here mentioning that #207 was the highest the top could take, and #138 was the highest the bobbin could take, though Im seeing needles available for the H3 (size 134-135) on threadexchange that go up 200/25, which I believe can handle #277 thread as well. I also see needles that go as low as 65/9, which would be relative to #15 thread? Any help is appreciated as the Pfaff manual is a bit difficult for me to understand.

Issue resolved a few hours after my original post, however, I forgot to reply back to thread until now. I had the bobbin threaded incorrectly, with thread entering counter clockwise rather than clockwise.

My Pfaff 145 gives out perfect stitches on the bottom of my material, but irregular ones on the top. I tried adding a picture in, however my file exceeds the upload size limit. As I can best describe, the stitches are perfectly straight on top as well, however, inbetween each stitch, you can see the bobbin thread pointing up like a little ball. This happens regardless of how many layers of fabric or leather I use. The same stitch is produced on 7 layers of 11oz denim, 1 layer of ribbed cotton, or 1 layer of 4mm veg tan. Any ideas?

Im wondering what kind of ribbing I should use for a structured cowhide jacket?

That helps a lot! Looks amazing too! Nice work.

The teeth on the belt was the issue. Thanks for the help everyone!

Do either of you have photos I can reference of items that are sewn with the various industrial thread sizes? The Juki DU 1181N seems like a more viable option than the sailrite as it goes up to 138 thread, however, for about $200 more I could get the consew 206rb and have the option of sewing on size 207 as well. I dont believe ill be sewing anything more than 138, but I think it would really help if i could visualize the different sizes on a complete garment. I am unfortunately on the west coast, but i really appreciate the offer Doc! When we were originally looking for solutions to the squeaking, we thought the teeth on the belt could be what was causing it, though didnt really pay much attention to it. Maybe it is worth test a belt without teeth and seeing it moves smoother.

Ok, i will try and have the seller do all of that in that order, and see if anything changes. If this doesnt work, I think I will save myself the headache of buying new parts and waiting for the service man, and just get a new machine instead. Ive really been eying the Sailrite Lsz-1 plus package at $1195, as its portable and is said to be able to sew one to multiple layers of all the lightweight and heavyweight fabrics i will list below with no problem. I would either get this package, the upgraded Worker-B package at $1595, or the Consew 206Rb with table and motor for $1599. I have numerous tables myself and do not really need one specific to sewing, so going with the sailrite would be ideal to me if it could do everything else I want. Mainly, I will be sewing leather garments (goat, cow, lamb, and hopefully horse if the machine is powerful enough for multiple layers). However, I would also like to use the machine to make jeans, shirts, tees, and muslin samples of other garments if possible. Truthfully, besides leather, i am still exploring the types of fabrics I would like to use, so I would really like a somewhat universal machine that would not limit me to a set range of fabrics to work with. After testing, it seems to sew beautifully on all the leather and denim I had (from one to multiple layers). The muslin sewed fine as well, however i only tested it at about 4-6 layers, nothing less. I will keep yall in the know! Thanks!