Freedom

I thoroughly researched into this with a lot of makers around the country when I asked this original question.....I seems that the biggest problem/cause of, damage to the sheepskins is that the bond will come loose and this is what causes most of the damage to the skins. So by using a very strong bond (contact cement)...the skins will last way longer before they need to be replaced. So the general thought was if you want your skins to last...USE CONTACT CEMENT!...Or, if you need the "job security" use the rubber...lol

I use Masters or Barge ...but the last batch of Barge Rubber Cement I just got is that new "Tolene Free" stuff and I am a little afraid to use it if the general opinion is to use somthing better... I have alway used Masters Contact Cement...but I know it will require tearing the lining off in shreads when it comes time to reline the skirts.....So I was considering making the switch to Rubber Cement if it works well enough.

Was wondering what you all prefur for gluing the sheepskin lining on a new saddle? I know the nightmare of removing old sheepskin from skirts for relining when contact cement is used, but I am wondering if Rubber cement will last and hold long enough to keep the sheepskin securely glued in place for its' life. Thanks

Thank you very much JW for taking the time to answer my question...I sure appreciate it!

I was wondering what length fender leg you guys use with a Blevins buckle?? I thought 12" was kind of standard, but that seems to place the blevins to high. I plan to twist and bind the stirrups so I want to be sure that I allow enough length for that. Can I cut the leg to 10 1/2"?? .. 3 1/2" from fender bottom to stirrup fold is the plan.... I don't want the blevins to land on the rigging ring or hang up on the cinch buckle/latigo if I can help it. I rode a saddle for a while that had the blevins real low and it seemed to hurt the front of my ankle...so I want to avoid this if I can help it. It is for a lady, the saddle will have a dropped in skirt rigging. The fenders are 17 1/2" I really appreciate any measurements/ advise you guys would share. Thanks

Thank you for the reply! Yeah, I was sure that it was not going to make belly leather into holster leather..lol I was just wondering if this stuff roasted the leather, or made it more prone to surface cracking?? Will adding neats foot and leather cream re-hydrate the collagens, thereby reversing any stiffning effect that you may gain from the firmer product? Kind of just looking for info on the product.... since I bought it I would like to try and use it, I already wasted the money, so by using it I sure don't want to just be wasting time and possibly ruining my products with it...lol

I haven't used the product enough to say whether it is good or not...I don't think I would want to use belly leather on a fine holster and then rely totally on a liquid product with the "hope" that it would not break down over time. I do plan to try it with some mag pouches and see if I can firm them up a little That being said..It is NOT alchohol...this is what it is.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2-Butoxyethanol Does anyone have any more experience with this product??? Thanks

I haven't used the product enough to say whether it is good or not...I don't think I would want to use belly leather on a fine holster and then rely totally on a liquid product with the "hope" that it would not break down over time. I plan to try it on some magazine pouches and see if I can firm them up a little. That being said..It is NOT alchohol...this is what it is.. http://en.wikipedia....2-Butoxyethanol Has anyone else tried this product ...sure like to hear about your successes/failures??? Thanks

Hi Guys........ I have a silver horn cap to install... It has a screw back and a gold letter on it. My question is: does anyone know a trick that will allow the cap to come tight at the same time as the letter is right side up?? Thanks

Joel with a little more info on what you need would sure help.....So are you after info on the Whole button?? do you know how to make the button? I like to attach mine be leaving a long tail behind my folded button and then running the tail through 2 small holes punched vertically about 1/2" to 3/4" apart in the pocket ( in one hole and out the other, smash it with a hammer and it pretty much "Locks" in place) Cut off most of the excess laving enough so that the tail can't pull back throught the hole. ... This allows for adjustment if needed later and is still very secure and functional. Depending on the aplication I sometimes make the button hole the same way so that I only need to punch 2 small holes in the flap (instead of the button hole itself) and if it ever tears/wears out all I have to do is put in a new slotted piece without ever damageing the flap itself. Hope this makes sense?? if not just contact me and I'll try to explain it better. Wes

Just wanted to thank everyone that shared info on how to get a padded inlaid seat installed and Steve Brewer for the info on the in-skirt rig... Your info made this much easier to get done right.... sure was hard to bring myself to cut that big hole in a perfectly good seat...LOL Here a a few pics. It is a Lady Ray Hunt tree from Timberline, with an in-skirt rig, padded inlaid seat and rawhide cheyenne roll cantle binding. Tooled with my new (from Sheridan show) Barry King basket stamp. Seigel 13/15oz skiting and finished with neatsfoot and Skidmore's.. Thanks for looking and constructive (or honost) comments appreciated very much. Wes

Without seeing the saddle and how dry it really is... I would use "SKidemore's" leather cream... IMO it is the best leather conditioner available. If you go with neats foot make sure you get %100 pure. NOT that compound stuff they sell.