colttrainer

Would that tag not idicate june 1927, and possibly the other number indicating what number the saddle was in the production cycle? I no not what they where indicating just a guess. What is something like this worth? Al

Here is a photo of a paper tag that was attached under the rear rigging leather. If anyone can tell us something about this name. Not shure if it is a Porter or a Parker signiture. Found it while I was tearing down so that can give it a really good cleaning. Re line the skirts, etc. Thanks AL

last photo. I am sure it does not belong with saddle, but do wounder if it is the porter style.

one more to come

couple more

here are more. more coming

Got the pics sooner than I thought. The last photo is of the tooling on the flank cinch I am shure it doesn't belong with this saddle.

Hi All Coming here for help as you folks seem to have a wealth of knowledge on these old saddle companies. I have found lots of info on this maker what I am interested in is getting a style dated as close as can be. I will post some pics tomorrow. But I will describe it for now. The saddle is a slick fork, 14" seat, the seat is stamped N Porter, Phonix Arizona. From what I have gathered it should be stamped in 4 other places, if this is true I am unable to find them. It also has a J stamped in the horn cap. The off side hanger has the # 260 stamped in it, I will asume this may be a style #. It has no tooling at all other than what has been stated, as I figure the tooled flank cinch is off of something else. Any info will be greatly appreciated. also when the pics get posted I want you to tell you me what you feel has been changed & is not original. Al

Nice job on both items. 2 questions: 1) where do you get your blades from, 2) what method are you using to install the bone. Al

Thanks for all the input. I will post pics of my progress, when I get started. Lots of things on my plate at the momoent, not mention lots of NEW TOOLS TO BUY. LOL Not sure about those prices but up here a 65' Runs at about 7 to 10 bucks a foot (4 strand) at least that is what I have found and that is top quaility stuff. That is why I decided I neede to learn. Dads wore out after many years branding calves & need a new one. Can't bring my self to use a rope at a branding or spend that kind of money for a reita. Wife would use me to make rawhide.

Just starting into the rawhide life. My question is which is best cored or non cored for a 4 strand reita. If no core what size do you cut the strands for a 3/8. How thick do you make the strands for either method. Look forward to all of your input. Al

HI Never built a saddle, will one day. The shearling on my old saddle is wore very thin in spots, saddle is about 85 years old, looking at replacing it. My question is what is the purpose of the shearling? I ask because I only see it in western saddles. Al

Just to continue this topic further, what is the purpose of the felt or wool lining. I have packed many a horse in the mountains and the trees or bar and sit on a good quality pad. Call me stupid but I don't see the need. Al

My concern would be with the bowden tree. You my be getting a tree that was sent back from someone that rejected it. Al

Joanne I have been reading all the advice you are getting. Some good some total B.S. First with out seeing the horse in person all you are going to get, is guesses. Bruce has the best advice that I have seen so far on here, some others are along the same idea. My advice comes from training horses for over 30 years for a living. 1st leave the lacing alone, never been a problem. 2nd take the thin pad and turf it, & while you are at it your gel pad can go with it (a pad as it has been pointed out needs to take the sweat away from the back). Go and by a good pad with wear bars on it, I like ones made from alpaca or a natural wool of some sort, I also use felt ones. Put on a good roping cinch, again natural fiber. Use your flank cinch, it should be pulled up snug not tight but snug ( don't want a hind foot in it, are a branch running between it & him) it will also keep the rear of the saddle where it belongs. Your front cinch should be tight enough to keep that saddle from moving around (side to side) if you are always having to shift your saddle it is to loose &, or he my be lacking in the wither department. Now this is my proffesional opinion, Have 2 saddles that I prefer to use, I ride many many different horses & have never had a problem with a sore back or hair rubbing off. Al

Hate to tell you folks this but chrome is not a hard metal. Chrome is thinner than tracing paper and comes off very easily. What makes chrome look so shiny is nickel and nickel unprotected rust. So don't worry about rust forming on your plain steel tool, you will get it at some point any way, just not as quick. Al

I like love that old look, would be interested in more detail, as I think that this is a way I would be more inclined to do my pattern work on saddles. Just starting to be bitten by the leather bug. Retired from training horses. Thought leather my be the next step in life. AL

Bebah I am no carver but looks good to me. Having trained horse for 30 odd years I have to agree with Darc, that rear D is to far back, old school rideror not that flank cinch is supposed to be up againts their belly, keeps feet, branches out but main pupose is to keep the saddle locked down in position. Al

Hi Art It is john that I am waiting to give a priece on the one he has, he can convert it to sew heavier material. He led me to believe that he makes the parts for these oldies that can't be bought anymore. The new stuff scares me, I like the old stuff when I can find it in good shape, hell I still hay with horses. AL

Bob I hear what you are saying & will keep it mind. This guy has been repairing for 30 or 40 years and has a complete machine shop, so I can only hope that what ever wears out in time he can make. I guess I am okay as long as he is alive, but then I am probably not that far behind him.LOL Al

THanks Bob Parts should be a problem, if I understand him right. He builds or re-builds what is needed for these old machines. Al

HI I have a 31-20 treadel machine, I see that you guys have this needle stuff figured out pretty well. So my question is what is the largest leather point needle I can obtain for this machine? Al

I use a 31-20 singer, sews up to 3/8. Seems to work well on all types of leather. Have to feed it by hand from time to time, but not using it for high speed production work.

HI All Looking to see what you guys think of the singer 11-18? What they are worth? Found one, the guy will install the kit to make it capable of sewing thicker material just waiting to find out what he wants.

What size of thread & type is best for machine sewing saddle skirts. Will be using an old treadle machine, capable of up to 7/16 of an inch.