Vinkimus

Oh boy,this design struck me heart deep!As always exquisite craftsmanship!

Greetings everyone,this is fresh off the bench,just finished it last night. It is a leather covered triangular wooden shield for my swordfighting lessons.The pattern was something I thought while working,I wanted it to look simple (it's gonna be messed up 2 sessions later after all) and to have some resemblance to historical designs.It comes with a handy folding handle for easy carying around.I used scraps from 5 different leather types to make the front and the back side.Hope you like it!

I'm a small gamer compaired to you John but I know the feeling you're talking about.It's really depressing knowing that someone is willing to pay a freekin lot of money for a lame bag cause of a brand on it and is not willing to pay half the price for a real handmade project,that is unique and life lasting, out of the hands of a craftsman.And about competitors that get a better price for a product that is more or less worse one can only wonder "how on earth that other guy convinces people to pay him that much when I feel guilty mentioning my prices?" I'm a bookbinder.I face the exact same thing you're talking about everyday....The market here is full of bookbinders that do lousy job and get fair prices and bookbinders that do mediocre job and get huge prices for their work.Their books will not last over a decade of good use,they even look worse, yet they somehow make their prices seem reasonable.I would never lower my quality but not having to see the long face when I mention the cost would improve my mood a lot.Why is it so hard to understand that a book that has been taken apart,repaired,resewn,leathercovered,handdyed and decorated and will outlast you and probably your children has to cost more than a couple of pizzas and some beer?I could go like this all day long,point is it's the same problem everywhere. Anyway,all the people I ever met and do quality work,whatever their field may be,underprice their work.They all have competitors that achieve better prices for worse products(good for them of course if they can do so).They all get "mugged" by resellers that take benefit out of their work and most of them have given up on this kind of deals. The most annoying thing about this whole case is that there is no answer!Just as mentioned above the only relief one can get is by thinking "I know what I make is good and that I pour my heart and sweat into it".I feel the same way as you do,only in a very very very very smaller scale probably! Oh,and funny thing,I went to a head doctor for some personal issues and in time he became the most understanding and loyal customer!What are the odds of that?!?

:jawdropper:That is neeeeeeeet!Amazing work...Your son is one lucky man!

Appreciate sharing these with us John!

That's a really neet work!I have 3 questions 1)How may oz was the leather? 2)How did you mold the head cup and what did you use as a mold?(I suspect it is 2 pieces) and last 3)Did you harden it using boiling water or in the oven? Post some pictures of it with the face mask on. Again-great work!

Thank you guys for the help.As I said,I'll probably buy the saddle skirting mostly for its size-cost ratio,especially after you verified it's easier to mold/form.I wish I had enough to spare to buy and try both of them.Since I have little experience in hardening the sole bend would probably spare me from a lot of trouble with its density, but then again 14sq feet are not enough for a full upper body armor and 2 pieces cost about 340$-quite a lot for now...I suppose I'll have to go with the saddle skirting.At least I'll be able to use scraps for tooling! (assuming there will be scraps!)

I'll cut right to the chase; I want to make an armor (renaissance style) for my Arma course and I need an advice concerning the appropriate leather. I will order the piece from Tandy leather UK and I am between these two options (please take a look at them at Tandy's webpage if it's not too much trouble)-"armor/sole bend" and "select import saddle skirting". I know the leather must be heavy (14-15-16oz) and also good for water hardening.Secondly but also important is to have a large enough piece in order to make the whole thing. I contacted them to give me some info and they told me that "armor sole bend" is about 14sq feet (which I think is not large enough). They also said that it is fairly hard on its own, apart from the possibility of the hardening procedure.Does this mean that I won't be able to shape it? Also, by saying "very hard" could they mean that it doesn't need to be hardened? The "select import saddle skirting" is twice the size at the same cost, approximately the same oz, and seems more pliable. I'm leaning towards this one. Which would you recommend from the two mentioned? Has anyone tried both of them? How do they perform? I wait for your advice in order to make the right choice!

Excellent work,I hope one day I will be able to accomplish a carving so detailed and fine. Are you also the bookbinder of the korans or do you just make the gilding-leather tooling part? Anyway,inspiring work!Show us when you have something new!

Thank you for the valuable guide, a craftsman sharing his knowledge is what keeps a craft moving forward!!!

Thanks for the suggestions guys!I'll ask around and see if I can find some of the things you mentioned!Hope the 80year old local sellers of the trade understand what I'm looking for,it's always quite a challenge to make them give you exactly what you need and not something different!

I don't use a sealer,thats why I asked if there is something extra beyond the dye that would help(I couldn't recall the word sealing)!What kind of sealing should I use Kate?It would be nice if you are aware of something rather common because most of the brands I see mentioned (fiebings for example)cannot be found here.Also, if there is a more natural way-material that is easy to aquire in order to seal the dye that would be great!In any case thanks a lot! usnret82 and jbird thanks for the advice!

Hi everyone, I need advice on a matter that may sound silly but here it goes; I want to make a simple black belt but I am facing a problem in the dyeing process,the dyes wont apply.I used water aniline but moisture and water make the color fade a bit.The aniline does for leather-bound books and we use it all the time at the workshop but the books are never exposed to such amount of moisture as a belt might be during rainy seasons or in the moisture of summertime.I also tried to put a lot of stain and I achieved the color i wanted but it fades almost totaly even with the slightest drop of water.What seems strange to me is that many people in this forum have suggested that one should first dye and then burnish.But in order to burnish you need to wet the leather a bit.How come the color doesn't come off? So,what kind of dye should I use that wont discolor because of moisture or water?And is there something extra beyond the dye that makes the color stay? I know my question is simplistic,but any help would be appreciated!

Well,here's a little something I made for my girlfriend Antigoni (she is really great!) 3 years ago (the date on the foto represents only when the picture was taken).It's not leatherwork but I thought you might like it! It's a wooden puppet of a sad knight ( " o tethlimenos polemistis" is his name in greek) that has freed himself from the strings.Hands,legs and head are fully movable,shield and sword can be removed, and it took me about a week to complete the whole thing.The interior is wood and the armor made from alouminium.It could look more pro but my intention was to have a result that would convey a child's feeling-thought. I always wanted to make some more of this kind but never got the chance since...