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About Quade

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  1. On a typical machine, when the manual foot lift is up, the tension disks on that end tensioner should be loose so any comparing of thread tension should be done with the foot down. With the foot up, the thread should pull through relatively easily. I notice you have the tensioner screwed all the way in. Makes me wonder if you're not factoring in the release when the manual lift is up. It's possible for the tensioner to be too far into the machine so the tension disk are always in released state even with the manual lift lever down. On my Juki, there's a little pin that connects to the lift lever which pushes the disks apart while threading. If the tensioner is set too deep into the machine, this pin will open the disks even with the lever down. The fact you see the tensioner move after you tighten it, suggests, you're running into an issue like this. I think you should loosen the tensioner to maybe 1/2 tension. Then unscrew the set screw that holds it in place. Then slide the tensioner in and out till you feel some contact. If you push it in more, does it release the disks?
  2. They have non-staining oil for this purpose. My Juki collects oil on the needle. There's an oil pump that pumps into the hook and all the way into the front where the needle is. It collects over time. Once I wipe the needle, I don't notice it again till it sits for awhile. I agree that if you're not sewing things like vinyl quickly, you probably don't need it.
  3. Haha. Happened to me. I was touching the knee lift slightly but it was enough to release the tension. So it sewed properly most of the time but occasionally I'd get a nest of thread.
  4. What they recommend for tension is use a different color for top and bottom threads so you can see where the knot is.
  5. I was thinking this from the picture too. Particularly the picture that shows the hook and needle. I was thinking it might be better to pull the two screws off so, and the cover plate so you can see the hook more easily. The hook is pretty deep on that pic. I wonder if the OP is timing off the wrong part of the hook? if you read section 8 of the manual, it's pretty much saying what I said. About the needle eye and hook placement. Needle to the bottom, starts going up, the hook should be right in line with the needle, 1.6 mm from the needle eye. Often there are timing marks on the needle bar. Bottom mark is used to set the needle bar length and the top is for where the needle and hook should intersect. This machine, it seems you set the needle bar length to get the timing position correct.
  6. What's it not doing? 1- The needle and the hook need to pass next to each other as closely as possible without touching so, you might need to move the entire hook assembly towards or away from the needle. The hook actually passes inside the cutout on the needle. On my 211, there's two clamp screws and the actual gear needs to be loosened so I can move the hook either closer or farther to the needle. Then everything needs to be clamped down. If you know where the hook is, you automatically know the orientation of the needle. 2- The hook should be 1/16th of an inch above the needle eye on the upward stroke. So take the needle to the bottom, then as it starts to move up, the hook needs to be 1/16 above the needle eye.
  7. I was thinking the timing of the needle through the inner foot looked off too. Like it's late.
  8. You see this a bunch with old machining tools re-sellers too. They buy a rough lathe or mill at scrap prices, slap a coat of paint on it then sell for decent coin.
  9. On my singer, what I call the primary foot, the one on the back, the shaft has two clamps attached to it. One clamp is for the spring that's on the back of the machine which creates the primary tension for the presser foot and the other is what the hand lift presses on to push the primary presser foot shaft up. I'd probably take off the both presser feet. Unscrew the tensioner thing on the top back, Then see if you can get that rear shaft to lift up and down. You ought to be able to release the clamps and pull it out of the top of the machine but, I wouldn't do that initially. The question is where there's a mechanical jam or if the shaft itself is stuck. When you press up on the hand lift, the inner and outer feet should both lift up. Either one could block you. I don't know that machine so, I can only guess. I have a feeling the problem is in the thing that moved the feet but that's just a guess.
  10. He shows the min-max stitch length on the 105. The 105 and 115 share the same parts book. It seems to be a closer clone to the Juki 211 clone than to the original Singer 211.
  11. I'd say you need to find which machine they cloned when they made the 351. Then see what other companies cloned it. For example, my 211A was cloned by Consew, Juki and Seiko. Juki still sells a model like my 211A so some of the parts are still available from other brands. It looks like REX is a chinese cloner who put their own name on the machines. I have a stack of parts manuals I downloaded from the net so when I want a part I first look up the Singer part, then start looking through the other manuals to see of other use exactly the same parts.
  12. Is there a good way to measure top tension to get some idea where you are compared to a "standard"? When they made these machines, did they have some max top tension in mind? Some number we can note and compare to the tension we have set? I guess what I mean is how can we know when we have too much top tension and it's then time to mess with needle sizes and/or lube?
  13. Did you notice whether his presser foot was all the way down when he lowered the foot? On my Singer, the lower position of the rear foot height is controlled by a clamp that clamps over the lifer shaft. The clamp is what the manual lifter engages to lift the feet. I could imagine loosening the clamp, pulling the shaft up and clamping on a lower position so the foot never rested on the lower section of the machine but dangled in the air. Then when you lifted it would lifter higher because it started higher. Since you're pressing on something thick, it would still press on it but it would simply start in a higher position. Would probably have to adjust the inner foot and needle bar position too. I've never actually done this. I was just imagining how my 211 linkage works.
  14. I dread running out of bobbin thread. It always happens 1/2 way through a seam. if I had a choice, I'd get the large bobbin. Still that just puts off the problem.
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