slickfork

I've made a lot of saddles over the years, but this is my first attempt at a Guadalajara post horn Wade. I could use some advice on how to cover the horn. I understand the "cap and wrap" idea, but how is it done on the horns that are stitched all the way around the cap? Pictures would really help! thanks

Does anyone have contact information for the purchase of Harwood saddle hardware? thanks pat

I'm restoring an 1890's A-fork saddle and need a 1/2" pinking iron (half circle, hand punch with sawtooth edge) to finish off the exposed edge of the swell cover. This saddle has an 8 button seat and the bottom/front edge of the swell is exposed over the front jockey between the front concho and the concho next to the stirrup leather....kinda cool....never seen one quite like it. Anyway....if anyone has a pinking iron they would like to sell, please let me know. Slickfork

The best tri-weave I've seen is made by Robert Beard. www.robertbeardtools.com Comes in half a dozen sizes. He told me he actually designed the original tri-weave. Nice tools, worth the price. Ive been using a set of his bevelers for years...They are expensive but there comes a point where the quality of your work is limited by the quality of your tools.

---Slickfork

Sorry about that...tried to attach this pic too, (I hate computers...) Hope this makes it clearer...if you need more pictures/ explaination let me know. It's not fancy, but sure works good. My Hansen is probably 20+ years old.... I actually own a LaceMaster too...I find they are both very useful, just depends on what you're making. I use the Hansen for rough cutting strings from a disk, (with the table attachment) MUCH EASIER for me to cut string from the outside of the circle in -- than from the center of the circle out-- as is done with the LaceMaster and I think I have less waste. I use the Hansen for HEAVY splitting (thick- medium leather / rawhide) I also find it's easier for me to bevel with. I modified my Hansen ... had a friend with a milling machine put an additional angle cut though the main bar so I have two different beveling angles to choose from. The LaceMaster is better for making fine strings (after the initial rough cut) in fact, it was Frank Hansen himself who talked me into buying the LaceMaster at the Pendelton Leather Show. The splitter on the LaceMaster works great for Kangaroo and thin rawhide. The fact that it uses razor blades instead of a blade you have to sharpen is convenient and the sharper blade does a prettier job on fine stuff. It's also handy that you can change strings without loosing your thickness setting. The beveler on the LaceMaster is a little tricky. Probably just need to practice with it more. If I had to choose just one....I'd probably get the Hansen...

The table-attachment I have is a square of masonite about 2 feet square with rectangular notch about 5"wide and 12"long cut out of the lower left hand corner. (see pictures) It has two holes drilled in it to line up with the holes that attach the splitter blade. The upper right hand corner has a dowel leg attached underneath for support. I remove the splitter blade and the guide ring for the bevel cut so only the one ring for the straight cut is on the machine. The masonite lays on top of the machine and screws down through the two holes the splitter blade is attached to with a couple of pan-head screws (I counter-sunk the holes so the screws lay flush with the top. This set up allows you to lay a large or small disk of leather or rawhide on the table and pull the string through the cutter. The disk does not have to be perfectly round, if you go slowly and carefully you can cut around odd-ball shapes and not have near as much waste. When the shape of the disk gets to the point that you are having too sharp a corner, you simply trim the edge to a smoother curve and continue. It works great and when you're done rough cutting your strings, you take the table off, hang it on the wall and put the splitter blade back on.... My cutter is OLD, probably not exactly like the new ones, if you like I can send you a tracing of this one. It's pretty basic though ..you should be able to figure out any necessary modifications..... Hope this helps -- slickfork

You'll love the Hansen cutter, but it does take a little getting used to....Frank Hansen (God rest his soul) was a dear old friend who taught me to make rawhide and use his string cutter in the back room off his kitchen (good times!!) He made me a pattern for the table attachment to hold a big disk of hide when you are making strings. When you get your cutter let me know and i'll send you pictures. He also had an attachment he made out of the ringers from and old ringer washing machine that you would crank and it would pull the string through the splitter so your hands wouldn't get so tired....got one of those too. Let me know how it goes with your cutter.... slickfork

You're right, I got it all peeled down and the only mark on the whole thing is under the rawhide of the tree, stamped in ink on front the cantle it says "CREOLE" (I think) the O might be a D? other than that nothing. I understand a lot of these unmarked saddles were made by saddleshop workers who were allowed to moonlight by their employers but were forbidden to mark the finished saddle in any way. Who ever made this one was a real craftsman and an artist. I was told that these "Moonlight" saddles usually looked very much like the official shop saddles (use the boss's patterns) so if I can find a marked saddle that looks similar, this one might be unmarked from the same shop.....thanks for your input Greg!!

Hi you guys...I'm new to your forum. Maybe one of you can help me identify this saddle. I figure it's 1890ish. No maker mark inside or out. Double rigged, leather covered rigging rings,full flower carved, 16 inch seat (big for that era) Still has the steel match striker button on the right swell. The leather is shot but the tree (rawhide covered) is in great shape, so I'm going to re-use it and re-build from there up. Only clue is a stamp on the wood under the rawhide of the tree says "CREOLE" or maybe "CREDLE" ?? difficult to read. Anyway it should be a fun project. Thanks for your interest slickfork