IH460

Thank you! For holsters/sheaths the J pattern is no trouble and sounds like the best solution. For belts and other items that offer no real estate for a J pattern or close stitch to existing it sounds like just cutting off close will be the way to go. Any harm in lightly tucking in loose end with a blunt awl on top side of work?

How are you guys finishing up a stitches on your Needle and Awl machines? I prefer to backstitch on presser foot machines, cut, melt and press smooth (Poly/Nylon thread) Linen projects in Needle and awl don't offer the option to melt and backstitch is not an option for any thread type. To current, I'm pulling a little longer than average at end, snipping and back stitching with harness needle by hand but wondering if there's a trick in the book I'm unaware of.

Adding more specifically I believe a 14 needle and 15 awl is what I will need to test

Looking for a couple of spare needles and awls to try out on Landis 16 before buying packs if anybody has any lying around. I know its like buying cigarettes single off the counter, but the packs have gotten pretty steep! Wanting to verify stitch for 277 and 346 thread. Please let me know if you have any spare needles and awls in the size ranges for these threads. Thanks

Still looking, would entertain modern styles such as Crimson Hides as well

I am working on setting up a new to me Landis 16 Stitcher and wondered if anyone may have some detailed pictures of the wiring and components for the light and heat system they can share. The heat system thermostat and light switch have been removed, with a switch remaining for the motor. I'd like to identify what I may have on the machine regarding the heat system and if I am able to bring it back to service, as well as ensure I rewire the light properly. Looking over a parts manual I found there also appears to have been a pilot/indicator light that was on the machines as well, however I've not seen one anywhere on the machine. I understand liquid thread lube is available and does a fine job, however I have an abundance of solid wax available to me and would like to have the option to use it if possible. Thanks for any help that can be provided

Interesting in Dixon 8spi Irons in working shape.

Still looking for some irons

Funny you say so, I’m working the other direction and want to give irons a try vs wheel. Curiosity killing the cat I suppose

Thank you, have not seen this section yet, great info. I did stumble upon Nigel’s reviews and found them to be very insightful Correct, marking and following with awl, however not against hybrids like crimson hides or punching through with sharp and consistent width longer tines for certain jobs. I’ve read good things on the RM irons, seem to be a good option. I’m hoping to find some used if possible vs breaking the bank on new

Still looking

Thanks for the offer Ferg, the #8 size wouldn’t fit my needs however Sending you a Pm on these @terrymac

Looking for a set of #9 and #7 or 6 pricking irons in 2 tooth + 5-8 tooth. Looking for French Style 45 degree irons, not chisels. Jonathan

Great, thank you for the clarification.

Thanks Bill, do you know if it details leather covered hardwood cases with felt interiors?

Looking to begin learning case making and would like to start with “The art of leather case making” volumes. If anyone has any of the three collecting dust please let me know.

No kidding!

Thank you both, I’ll check these out. Do these cover techniques for classic shotgun cases?

I’m interested in learning about case making, are there any resources that are recommended to begin learning from?

Thanks all for the welcome! @Hags how do you like your cobra class 3?

Excellent option here. I wasn't aware of the narrow feed dog/throat plate options. I know there's really not a "one size fits all" solution but this sounds about as close as it can get. I had planned to run the 29k58 for thin work on bags, etc and leave it set up with #69, but must admit that if the CB4500 has this kind of adaptability, it may sit more than run. I enjoy hand stitching smaller projects, but needed to speed up the long runs of finer stitching, and would love to save some of what's left in my hands and let a machine tackle the real thick work on the holsters and sheaths. What would the budget look like on these upgrades for the CB4500?

@kgg Thanks for the info. I certainly agree with the buy once philosophy and suspected that the older singers may be tough to keep up and running as time goes on with parts availability. I've looked at the CB4500 and Cobra Class 4 in the past on the heavier side of things and will have to check into the other recommendations for flat work and other cylinder machines you mentioned. In USA

New to the Forum and machine sewing. Been hand stitching for awhile now and slowly moving to machines for some items to speed things up a bit. I recently completed a rebuild on a mid 30's model Singer 29K58 which is working out very nicely for thinner leather and smaller thread diameters. From the patchers moving up, what cylinder arm models would be recommended to look at to dedicate to thicker work? While I like the older machines, I'm also aware that modern used machines can be picked up somewhat reasonably, are there any distinct advantages on any of the older machines to consider? Most of my work is in Belts, holsters, tack, sheaths, wallets and bags/totes. Thanks

Hello, Found this forum while restoring a singer 29K58 and it was a lifesaver for the project. Thanks to all who contribute with a wealth of knowledge. Looking forward to learning more. On the hunt for a machine to sew 1/2- 7/8" now!