HanginH

Thanks for all the comments and critiques Darcy. It must have taken you a bit of time to get all that information typed out but it will be greatly appreciated and I will be putting all to good use on the next saddle I build. I am definetly going to ajust my rigging pattern and bring it up some but is there a rule of thumb on how far down the rigging should be? Thanks again for all the info and help! Spur and Denise thanks for the nice comments as well! Have a great day. Justin

Thanks Dusty for the tip to finish up the rough out with the sand paper and along with the sugegestion not use the latigo leather for things like rope staps and to hold the rope strap buckle on. This is exactly why I like posting things on here because the little things guys pint out sometimes can make you saddles look just that much more professional. So thanks. Denise this is my third one and definetly my best thus far. I think it was that high quality tree I put in that made all the diffence. By the way what are you doing on here? Aren't you supposed to be working on the two trees I ordered from you yesterday? Just joking Hope you guys are having a great day up there in Valleyview! Justin

I just finished this wade saddle this week and thought that I owuld try and get some constructive critiquing. It is a built on a Rod Nikkel Tree with 90 degree bars, 4" hand hole, 9" fork width, a 4 1/2" cantle and 3 1/2" high x 4" cap wood post Guadalajara horn. I used Herman Oak Leather and stainless steel hardware along with 2 1/2" stirrup leathers. Have a look and any suggestions or critisism is greately appreciated. Have a great Day! Justin Hozack

Just wondering if you had sold the french edgers yet or not? Thanks

Thanks, Gave them a call today and they are going to fire me up a burgandy one with a nice white pearl. Justin

Was looking at maybe putting an inlaid padded seat in a wade saddle and thought why not spruce it up a bit by using some Sting Ray hide. The only problem is that I am not sure who or where I should be buying them? Might have to ask the local leather supplyer but thought that I might throw it out to everyone in case someone had some good insite. Thanks Justin

Hey Denise and Russ, Just wanted to jump in on this thread as I am interested in the same things when I build my next saddle which will be used calf roping and I want something that gets me to the front to rope with ease. I have rode a coupe of different saddles made by Todd Sloan and Cactus and one of the major things that I have noticed with them is that they are pretty flat from the front to the back of the seat which in the two that I rode made them quite wide to sit in but were great for roping because there wasn't a deep pocket in the seat to try and get up and over to get stood up to the front. I had a look at the picture you posted and compared to a ranch saddle the pocket in the seat of your saddle looks relatively small and the cantle appears to be stood up just slightly which I think both attribute to the ease which you can stand up and get to the front of the saddle. Also being a bit taller and 215lbs I had always rode a 16" seat length but after riding a couple of 14 1/2 inch saddles I believe that Denise is correct that it allows for the stirrups to be centered under or almost behind you as opposed to out front. Like you say not the greatest rig to be out riding downhill in all day because you basically bounce off the swells for the entire ride. Denise I think you would have better input into this seeing as you and Rod make trees (by the way love both of the trees you have made that I am working on), but I thought that I heard someone say that on roping saddles they will get the tree maker to shave the front of the bars down slightly to make them lower up front which would also make a difference to the seat profile. Not sure if that is possible or not without compromising the tree. Anyway just wanted to weigh in with my two cents. Thanks and happy trails, Justin Hozack Calgary Alberta

Thanks Andy, On the next one I will make sure to pay special attention to blocking my skirts as it is somethig that you have to do anyway and might as well be done well. Thanks for the advice

Thank JW I will definetly be doing those things on the next one. I remember reading about using two awls instead of one to try and get the jockey's down tighter. Also I plan on buying a 1 3/4" half round punch for cutting my seat on the next one I make. Thanks for the advice.

Very nice saddle. I was just wondering if you skive your edges on the leather that you use for your horn wrap. I have only done a couple but someone toldme to skive down the edge to half or 1/3 thickness. That way it will wrap nice and flat with no edges. I couldn't really tell from the picture but thought I would ask. Looks great and hope that I am putting them together like that one day.

Hey Everyone This is a saddle that I made this winter and it is the second in my very short and very inexperienced career. Right now this is a bit of a hobby and I would love to pursue it more but just don’t have the time or the direction yet. I have been working through the self teach process in the Stohlman books and recently the Dale Harwood DVD’s which have already been incredibly helpful and will continue to be in the future. I would love any advise or suggestions anyone has for me because I do want to get better with my lines and the overall look of my saddles. Might as well strive to be better then just coast along. Thanks Justin

Built my first saddle on a Quality tree and just finished my second one on a bowden tree and there is a large difference in the quality of lacing and overall construction. Which is saying something considering I haven't look at a lot of trees in my very short and inexperienced career. I would buy one from Sonny again if the wife ever lets me build her one.