LarryDonaldson
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Posts posted by LarryDonaldson
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I'm new to leather work so here's the dumb question of the day. What do you slick leather for? Are you stretching the leather around something or trying to smooth out imperfections?
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I finished my first pocket holster a few weeks ago. I wanted a right hip pocket version rough side out for a Ruger LCP. I laid out the pattern, cut, sewed and then wet formed. What I wanted to get was one side perfectly flat and only bone one side. Not knowing how much I could work the leather I was not quite able to get one side perfectly flat. It works just not what I was hoping to get. Any tricks on how to achieve this?
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You can use a drill press as a makeshift lathe. Chuck a threaded stud into your drill press, thread your female post onto it. Position a small toolroom vise on to your table with a turning tool placed horizontal in the vise. Usually your drill pres will have a depth stop so that you can repeat your cut length. It's actually very easy to do just keep your tool tip just under the part center line for good cutting action.
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I'm just a beginner and doing holsters but I back stitch 2-3 stitches on both ends.
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Ps0303 and others:
If memory serves me correct the loaded pallet weighs about 300 lbs. I had it delivered to my place of work and unloaded it with a forklift. No tailgate lift required. If you want it delivered at home you might want to request a tailgate lift delivery. That usually costs a little more. Another alternative is that you remove the poly wrap cut the straps and pull the parts off the truck individually. Some times that annoys the drivers, others are willing to deal with it. That should only take about 5-10 minutes. The sewing head is the heaviest box at about 90 lbs (best quess) Steve could tell you better. I transfered the whole pallet to my truck and took it home. I uncrated carried in the head and other box by myself. I then used a motorcycle ramp and slid the stand down it to ground level by myself. Having a second pair of hands is helpful but not required if you lift and work smart. As far as assembly you can probably do it in under 30 minutes. Bolt on the casters to the stand first then mount the head to the machine, install the hand wheel, attach the belt and bobbin winder. Attach the accessory light and vroom your ready to go. The machine is quiet and smooth and rolls easily. You just need a 2' x 2' space to store when not using. The machine comes with a package of 10 needles all one size. If you know what you are going to sew make sure you get the proper needle size from Steve. The machine comes with a small 1/4lb spool of thread so figure out what size thread you want and Steve can supply that also. I ordered a table extension for mine also because I knew in the future I would be sewing other items that would require it. In the near future I'm going to order what he calls the blanket kit for feeding canvas, webbing and the like. The machine is packaged with tools, oil, spare bobbins, everything you need to get started. Just be sure to get the proper needle and thread for the projects you want to do. His thread and needle prices are very competitive don't bother shopping it around. I wasn't sure how long a bobbin would last and haven't finshed my first one yet and have done 4 holsters so far and it still going strong. Making tension adustments are easy and a little common sense makes quick work of it.
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Update: The machine arrived in great condition and packaged well. Stand bolted to pallet and boxes next to stand. You can see pictures on shorts blog, mine arrived packaged the same. I got off to a slow start I'm a beginner so I was careful. I assembled the machine, powered up and ran for a moment to make sure everything went round and round and up and down. My leather hadn't arrived so I waited another week till it showed up so that I had something to sew. Steve had forgot to send me the DVD on the machine set up but it arrived before the leather did, so I strung it up. Is that proper terminology? Not!
After the leather arrived I cut of 2pcs of 6/7 weight and following the instructions tried a little sewing. Sewed about 6 inches and decided I wanted to change the speed. It has electronic control and feed back on the servo motor. As soon as I hit the down button to adjust speed it would not start again. If I hit the peddle and goosed the hand wheel it would start but it pulsed. It was as if the control wasn't getting proper feed back from the speed control mechanism. That was on a Friday after noon. I called Steve and he shipped me a new motor the same day. What a champ.
The new motor has been installed and works great. I played with tensions and got it set for 2 layers of 6/7 weight rather quickly. I sewed, backstitched, practiced a 90 degree turn and curves, then went for it. I have sewn 3 holsters, first two went well and 3rd not so well. I was using a left presser foot and on one side of the holster I changed my stitch direction and the foot was to close to the edge and the foot pushed the leather into the slot on the lower plate. Oh well I learned something and that was the whole reason for those first holsters.
I have to say I am quite pleased with the machine and Steve. I was leary about going with a new start up company but Steve's experience and willingness to share it convinced me. I'm waiting for the table extension to arrive and everything will be complete. I'm looking forward to many years of use on this machine and am happy with my choice. As a manufacturer myself I have built, bought, and sold lots of metal working machinery over the years. The quality of the Cobra is great and would recomend it to anyone.
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I'm new to leather working and made my own maul two weeks ago. I used it this last week to tool the border on a holster. I'm sold I'm not going to bother with a mallet of any type.
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I have a CNC Mill and a manual mill with open time but have never seen what you are talking about. Send some photo's to me and quantities you are interested in. larrydonaldson@rossreels.com
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Montrose, Colorado Located on the SW side of the Rockies. Community of about 15,000. It's high country irrigated desert with mountians all around. Famous for 4 wheel adventures, motorcycle touring, fly fishing gold medal waters and close to skiing and the best hunting around. Mild winters and summers known as the banana belt of Colorado. Placed high on US best places to retire. I only have one spare bedroom so you can't all come at once.
P.S.
Bypass Fort Worth, Tx and head to the Texas Hill Country down around Fredericksburg. Fort Worth is just another city flat and dusty.
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The Beard Mauls look like they would get the job done. They look like they have poly heads but what are the handles made of?
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Has any one got a picture of a Bob Beard 20 oz maul. Not ever having seen one, what makes it special?
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I machine parts and run a big CNC shop and had thought of using aluminum for slicking but decided against it. If you use compounds of any sort sooner or later you will start transfering aluminum oxide to the surface of your work.
It would be black while wet but would probably turn mottled grey after a while. What has been your experience so far?
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When we last talked you were going to be doing some shipping the following week. I haven't heard from you but still interested in 2 sides 970-209-5626.
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Looks good. I'm just starting out and I ordered the same Anelus dyes to work with. Expecting receipt of my first side this week.
I was planning on an IWB for my Sprinfield XD9. What weight leather did you use for yours?
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Where do you find your email address. Mine is larrydonaldson@rossreels.com
Larry - The front is 7-8 oz. and the back is 4-5 oz. Also, there is a small piece of leather sewn to the top of the back side, at the edge of the mouth of the holster (image attached). When drawing the pistol from the holster, one's thumb presses against this tab to push the holster down. Both the front and back use the same pattern. I cut the knife clip radius using a 3/4" punch. Please PM your email and I'll send you a PDF of the pattern. -
Thanks for all the information, exactly what I was needing. When I did generic searches I didn't come up with as near as good results and looked thru 100's to get that. The edger information was great.
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Not promoting anything was just providing information from where I'm starting. I did a search for "thread sizing" but nothing came up of any help on it, unless I missed it. As a beginner I'm trying not to make to many mistakes or reinvent the wheel or spend money on things I don't need. I'm looking to do strictly holsters for a hobby business so there a lot of tools and things for general leather work I may or may not need. I know there are many different sizes of edgers and brands and was looking for recommendations for a starting point. Sorry if I pissed you off.
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Just received my Cobra Sew 3000 and plan on making IWB, Pocket holsters and belt holsters. Just ordered a Wickett & Craign 6/7 oz side to start with.
What thread sizing is recommended and proper needle size? Do you stitch groove when machine sewing and if so what groover is recommended?
Can't afford a lot on tooling so far. What edger would be recommended for holster work? Any brand needles better than another.
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I just received a Cobra 3000 and plan to make some holsters. My wife and I both have LCP's also. What weight leather did you use on your holsters? Would you mind sharing your patterns on these?
By the way they look nice. Being a beginner I have a lot of learning and practice ahead of me.
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Please send picture.
Larry Donaldson email to larrydonaldson(at)rossreels.com
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Do you have any left? I would take one maybe two. Larry Donaldson 970-209-5626, Montrose CO.
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Receipt of payment confirmed on 4-17-09. Just waiting on the boat at this point. Scored some used hand tools this week. Got 5 Craftool stamps, swivel knife, 12 Osborne type hole punches, a skiving knife, head knife, 3 size snap set kit, and a video of Dusty instructions on holster making. All for $25 what a deal. The knives weren't high quality but I've got them sharpened as well as the hole punches. Still probably a couple of weeks out on delivery of the sewing machine so I think I will order some leather and have started on some patterns for the holsters I need.
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I picked up a lot of tools and in it was included a box of tools for setting snaps. It's labeled as follows.
Snap Fastener Tools
Birdcage Dot, 1 Set Tool No. 29610
Monadnock Mills subsidiary of United-Carr Fastener Corp. San Leandro, CA
So the question is does this work with any snaps or only a particular brand, and I'm not sure all the pieces are there.
It has a flat bar with three protruding posts (different diameters), two hollow punches, and two pointed tips. Not sure the tips even belong with this tool and since the flat bar has three posts I'm assuming it should have three punches.
I'm also assuming you can buy different size snaps and this would install 3 sizes.
I'm planning on making holsters and snap fittings will be required on some.
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Well I just jumped off the deep end of the pool and placed an order with Steve Tayrien for a new Cobra series 3. I'm planning on making holsters and gun related gear eventually for resale. I have a need for about 8 holsters myself. I have only sewn on my wifes sewing machine a couple of times over the years and played with leather in my teens. At age 56 I'm trying to find an alternate retirement income for the future other than machining. After I recieve the machine I will write a review of my experience. I enjoyed talking with Steve during the placement of my order and he seems extremely knowledgeable. He is currently out of stock but expecting a new shipment withing 2-4 weeks. Will keep you appraised.
New to holster making, need advise
in Getting Started
Posted
I'm new to machine sewing also. I just purchased the Cobra Class 3 myself and have had it a short time but I love it and the service after the sale is great. I looked for months on the internet for a used machine but they all seemed to be missing something. I don't regret the extra cost at all.