Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'molded'.
Found 3 results
Hi all This is my first molded leather (and hand stitch) project. Yes, a 13" mac will fit, but the goal is to use the sleeve for maps and documents in farming and forestry. I have used veg tanned leather and is at the moment testing different oils and waxes. Saddle stitch with waxed linen thread 18/4, pricking iron and owl. I can really recommend the buttons from scovill.com. Have been using them on waxed cotton and leather bags for 7 years. Their designs are one bit more robust than most brands. They come in black or chrome - the ones you see in the pics have been stripped from their black paint. I have decided to use only a blend of bees wax, coconut oil and olive oil on the edges. No burnish or color, just to bring more focus to the surface and less focus to the edges. I am new to wet molds, and have a few problems with keeping the veg tanned leather clean during the drying process. Does anyone of you use any coating on the leather before soaking and forming the parts? regards Lars Gustavsson
Just a Head (FWIW I've read Joanna's tutorial, John Henry's and couple on the Masks forum) How do I make a molded dragon head purse? I want to make a small purse that's dragon head shaped. I've got some examples that give a general idea. One is more art than usable purse, 2nd is a discarded alligator plushie. I want to mold it like the art purse, but shaped more like the plushie with a more triangular head. Seems like this has to be a turn out in order not to show stitches? If I'm going to mold this 1" up from my base do I start with a piece of leather that's something like 1 3/4" bigger than the base? What's the most 4-6oz belly leather can be stretched? Shoulder leather? Don't suppose the leather gives any kind of warning before it cracks? Is there some kind of conditioning to make leather easier to stretch? I'm making a plug, but why is molding pull down and not push out from back? Do people ever use just foam for their plugs? Any special type? Current plan is take 2 - 1x4s cut into "more triangular" shapes, shim up at back to get a wedge profile, and put a piece on top to get an approximate forehead shape. This is the rough shape, planning to goin with finer tools for some detailing.
This is my first commission: It's a Wet formed, semi-rigid, saddle stitched, single cue case (1x1 or one butt, and one shaft). Came out looking sort of like a saddle scabbard, don't you think? Yes, that is a single run of stitching. I started half way (at the bottom), leaving half the thread hanging, stitched up to the mouth of the case, and finished there, then picked up the hanging thread, and stitched up to the mouth on the other side. It's only twelve feet of thread The inside is unfinished, with a deerskin sleeve for the shaft. The sleeve is stitched into the slimmer side of the case like a welt. It runs out the bottom as well, so there's no opening for chalk to get in with the butt. Shafts get chalk on them anyway, but the wraps on cue butts can be very hard to clean. In a related question: After all the sewing, I'm wondering how you figure price for that? Perhaps I'm slow, but considering this one, and the prototype, it takes about four hours to sew each one. Carey Leather Newb