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This booklet is a small soft cover one with patterns for several animals made from leather. I had this booklet and made the seal and the trotting "race horse with jockey". Both were given to friends over 40 years ago. I want to make the horse again for myself but I can not find it in my stash of patterns. If anyone has this to sell, I am looking to buy it, or, if anyone has the booklet that is willing to make a copy of the horse pieces and pattern instructions for assembly, I would be willing to pay all expenses to have a copy of just the horse section copied and mailed to me. Heck, I'd even pay extra, within reason. PLEASE?????? Thanks for reading.....

Has anyone tried sealing their project with either Plasti Dip clear or Flex Seal clear? I'm making a set of floor board inserts for my motorcycle and thinking of sealing them with this stuff as they will get a lot of contact and rubbing, etc from my feet. I sprayed a couple of coats of the Flex Seal on a leftover piece of leather that was using to test die colors, and it looks okay, but I'm wondering how well it will hold up.

I'm sure this has been asked, I just can't find it. Is there a better way to seal live(NOT loaded) guns when wet-molding holsters? I use packing cling wrap, which works OK, but I end up spending more time cleaning, drying and oiling guns than I do working leather. The cling wrap does about a 90% job of it most times. I'm just wondering if there is a miracle method out there to keep live guns dry during wet molding. Also, I vacuum mold the holsters for the rough mold ... if that makes a difference. A shop press in in the near future! Thanks!

Hi everyone! Long time lurker, first time poster (or so I thought -- apparently 7 total posts) I was asked to make a black belt, and bought a black veg tan strap from Tandy. I rubbed some dubbin on it (mink oil/beeswax mixture) and the black still rubs off a bit. Can I apply Tan Kote on top of the dubbin? Thank you in advance! Jack

Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.

Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.

While finishing the edges of a project today (50/50 resolene/water on top of Angelus leather dye) I had to walk away suddenly and some foam sitting on top of the piece dried and caused spotting. It is still there after completing the finishing and I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for removing, or at least lessening, the appearance of these spots. There are several in other areas as well. Thanks for your help!

I have been doing some searching through forums history/archives in regards to painting & staining leather. I am doing some painting on leather and my question is about the staining. I've been using the Eco Flo All in One stains and more recently started using some of the Fiebings water based dyes in dark brown and chocolate as I prefer darker leather. My question is, how do I go about painting on those? I've noticed, especially with my white paints that they end up with a brown "tinge" to the white paint. In order to get rid of the tinge, it seems like I have to build up many many layers that possibly wouldn't be necessary if I could get rid of that tinge. I've tried deglazing my leather after staining but in order to get it "clean" enough to get rid of the tinge effect, I have to deglaze it so much that it really dries out the leather and gives it a gray haze. I've just been making some items for myself like spur straps, bracelets, etc. So they need to be able to flex and such without the paint cracking/flaking/peeling. So far I've had great luck with my paint but just seem to struggle with the stains & dyes bleeding through my paint. I would really like some advice on what I should do and would certainly appreciate the help. I have seen some people that paint their design on the unstained veg tan and then are able to stain after. I would imagine they would have to be using some kind of antique to do this as a liquid dye/stain wouldn't be very even if applied carefully around the design with a brush or wipe off the sealed painted area. I could really use some advice on this and would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions!