Search the Community

Hi all! I just finished up my first saddle build, built on a 15 1/2" Cliff Wade tree. I had a ton of fun with it, and hope I'll be making many more. I roped in it last night after a few rides and it felt great! I used HO 13-15 skirting leather, and hardware from Jeremiah Watt. Everything was hand stitched (I really need to buy a machine!). I know I need to work on my cantle binding stitching, so any tips on keeping that clean and consistent would be welcome. I want to keep improving and I'd be glad to hear any critiques and advice all of you saddle makers might have!

Hello, I was wondering if anybody out there has either a Wade or 3B Visalia tree they'd like to sell? I'm not making this custom for anyone but would like it to be all "average" sizing, no extremes on bars, seat, width, etc. Preferably between 15 - 16.5" finished seat. No production line or fiberglass trees. Not looking for cheap, just something I don't have to wait 2 - 4 months on. It's for a fall/winter projects to keep my mind off of my surgery that will keep me house and on crutches bound for a few months!! Thank you, Carol

Here is the third rig I have built - It's getting close to done now... Broke an awl blade sewing the pencil roll - Never had that happen before - I am wondering if this is a technique issue... Here are some pics. Made a decent mark in cantle dish when awl blade snapped...think i will add the daisy stamp to cantle dish to help 'camouflage' it...Anyone have suggestions? Saddle Details: Swanke Tree, 16" seat, Inskirt rigged - Rigging at between 7/8th and 3/4...Guadalajara horn (3x4.25"). Next step is to finish sewing cantle binding, oil everything up and then final assembly. Ron L

Lovely accident prone critters gave me yet another big vet bill. Price reduced to $650 ~ and promise you'll send me a pic of the finished saddle Wade tree made by Rod and Denise Nikkel in 2010, seat will finish to 14 to 14 1/2 in seat, 5 " Cantle, 9" slick fork swell. About 4 1/4" handhole width, 8" gullet rise Made for a petite woman to fit old style QH with broad shoulders and good withers. Guadeljara style horn, 2 3/4" or 3" tall. Always Stored In the house out of the sun. Can send additional pics showing measurements, and I think Rod and Denise might still have the original specs. My life took on a different direction not long after I got this tree. I love it and am a little heartsore to give it up, especially since the Nikkel's won't be building any more trees. But, I don't see myself building a saddle in the foreseeable future and am now riding a narrow little mule so no good having a saddle built for me on it. Would much rather see this tree become the saddle It was meant to be Instead of sitting in my closet. Buyer to pay shipping and insurance costs, which should be around $75 or so total. PayPa accepted for paymentl, or cash if you pick up in person - located near Portland, OR. Sorry but will ship only US or Canada (shipping/insurance costs may be higher to Canada).

Hello all, It's been a while since I have been here to show some of my stuff, but since I am now (almost) done with my very first saddle (stirrups and breast collar are waiting to be done), I wanted to post some pictures of it here... I have chosen DVDs and books as sources, I've made my own patterns, and since almost every saddle over here is more for recreational riders than the hard working cowboy, I have made some decisions considering weight etc... The Saddle is made for my wife, it is all handstitched, it's got a 16" Seat, Small Skirts, inskirt rigging, and features a rather simple border tooling :-)... I've had some problems here and there, but all in all, for my first saddle I am very proud... Alltough I am a little bit scared; feel free to critique whatever you may find odd or "special"... haha :-) Thanks, Andy

So I bit off way more than I can chew. I thought I would have a good old time this summer and make a couple saddles for myself. Evetually, I want to make them and sell them, but that is way in the future. I don't have time to do this, and these two trees and this DVD are just sitting in my house. Would someone like a new 14.5" laporte wade? Here are the specs: Laporte Wade 14.5" seat built in cable rigging 4" cantle semi QH bars, 23" long ( I think) That's all I know off the top of my head. If you want more measurements let me know. Pony Tree Seat: 11 1/2" Swell: Slick Fork Cantle: 2 1/2" Bars: 15 1/4" Pony Gullet: 4 1/2" wide x 5 1/4" high Horn: 2" cap Loop-Lok 2 1/2" high Weight: 3lbs. 14oz. from the website. New in box. And the DVD is The Art of Saddle Making by Jerimiah Watt. I purchased it for $153 used but in excellent condition. I would love to sell the whole set for $450 not including shipping, but I am negotiable on the price.

I am just starting my first saddle project... Tree: Timberline Wade - 15.5" finished seat, 13" cantle, 1.5" dish, Horn 3" x 4.25" cap @ 1.25" tilt - Bars set-up for typical Canadian ranch horse... Leather - Herman Oak Hardware - Stainless Steel from Sheridan leather I have attached a pic of the tree - What I would like to know for starters: I am trying to achieve the look / feel of the saddles you see Buck Brannaman riding - Really like how his horns are set-up - Sloping top, lots of diameter. This tree - Seems like there is a lot of undercut under the front of the top cap, a little more than I hoped for...Would there be anything wrong with cutting and skiving a piece in that woudld wrap around the front face of the horn post only to build it out? Nailed and glued of course? Would this be a bad idea? Basically it would reduce the undercut by 1/4" or so... How much undercut will dissapear once I finish this - wrapped in leather and then wrapped in 'mulehide'? Also, have read that some don't finish their horn posts in leather - They just use donut cap and proceed to finish wiith the horn wrap? Any comments on this? I'm inclined to think I want my horn post finished in leather and then wrapped in mule hide... On a horn this size - Cap and wrap or donut & filler - How to finish post with donut & filler? Any advice and comments will be appreciated! Also, a bit of background - Fairly new to leather work - Have built several pairs of tooled chaps / chinks, built rear cinches etc. Have all of Al Atohlmans saddle making books as well as Harry Adams, However, going to be using Steve Brewers ground seat techniques as they seem like a better way to go... My goal is to build a plain, smooth out working saddle - Be nice to have it ready for branding season.