Durkopp

[cholmm]

I recently purchased this machine to sew leather wrist braces/splints. When I went to pick it up it was working well. I transported it in the back of my SUV about 4 hours and we were careful loading it.  When I got it home I purchased thread Nylon 70.  Watched the videos on this website for threading and winding the bobbin.  Now it is not working, and I am not sure why.  If anyone has suggestions on what I could try I would be grateful. Thanks

Cindy

 

Edited March 16, 2022 by cholmm

[kgg]

51 minutes ago, cholmm said:

Now it is not working, and I am not sure why. 

You need to have more top thread through the needle and hold the end of the top thread so the end of the thread does not go down inside the arm. A loop has to be dragged back and over the bobbin area to catch the bobbin thread.

kgg

[Constabulary]

Your needle thread is forming no loop because it is too short and is handing down You have to hold your thread tail when the needle goes down just as on any other sewing machine when pulling up the bottom thread.

Your needle hook timing seems to be off as well.

I shot this Video back when I restored a Dürkopp 18 some years a go (no longer own it). At min 3:35 you see how to pull up the thread.  You may notice the difference to yours in terms of when the hook is at the needle for catching the thread loop.

The picture of your machine is very small so it´s hard to see details. I´m not sure but is the spring on the thread lever missing?

 

 

Edited March 16, 2022 by Constabulary

[kgg]

4 hours ago, Constabulary said:

I shot this Video back when I restored a Dürkopp 18 some years a go (no longer own it).

Excellent video of the old iron.

kgg

[cholmm]

Thanks for the advice. I did hold the thread snug this time and the thread catches but does not go around the bobbin. I also think there is a timing issue. I have minimal experience with sewing machines do you think it needs a professional or is it relatively easy to get the timing in sync. I watched Constabulary's video several times and noticed the hook is at the needle when the needle is down. With my machine it seems to be back at the bobbin when the needle is down.  

 

[Constabulary]

I have not much experience with Dürkopp 18 I just restored one once and never really touched one again. So I only can tell you what I would TRY in your case (not knowing details or the overall condition of your machine).

There is a rack with a roller and with a long squared cutout coming down from the big cam on the rear (see end of my video) it is attached to the long rack with the thread hook that goes from back to front in the bottom arm. Maybe you can try to "reposition" it a little bit.

I unfortunately do not recall enough of this machine to give you many advice.

Another option could be that you bring the hook to it´s foremost position where is is supposed to grab the thread loop. Then loosen the set screws on the big cam in the rear. Then hold the cam with your hand (if not seized) or a pipe wrench or pliers (be careful - do no damage the cam track) and rotate the hand wheel until the "timing is right". As far as I recall the cam was not pinned.

I know this is not very precise but there just too little information about this machine.

I recall that I had to reposition the cam that controls the thread lever a little bit on my machine but that was trial and error too

I hope this help or at least gives you some ideas.

Maybe LW member SHOEPATCHER knows more.

Edited March 17, 2022 by Constabulary

[cholmm]

Is this the cam track? It looks like I should be able to just pull it towards me but its not budging. It doesn't look like there is anything to unscrew. Do you think the circle has anything to do with getting it off?

Thanks for your help. It is greatly appreaciated!

Cindy

[Constabulary]

Not sure what you want to do first. In case you want to check my 1st suggestion      

Quote

There is a rack with a roller and with a long squared cutout coming down from the big cam on the rear (see end of my video) it is attached to the long rack with the thread hook that goes from back to front in the bottom arm. Maybe you can try to "reposition" it a little bit.

then you have to take the machine head off the stand (mounted with 3 screws) and tilt the machine to have access to the rack.

====

The cam is held on the top shaft by 2 large square head set screws - you see both in your pictures. Make your you mark the position of the parts you move in case you have to reverse the adjustments.

Also make sure you know at what point the loop is formed. Watch the cycle of the needle bar (see Video from 9:20 onward). The needle rises from bottom dead center a little bit, then stops and goes down again a little bit then rises again... Make sure you find the right point where the hook grabs the thread...

Again I only can guess cause I do not know your machine - you are on your own when you turn screws and make adjustments. Keep that in mind! My experience with this machine is very limited but I have restored several other pachter machines but only once a Durkopp 18.

[cashmanleather]

A rather large spool of thread to have on top. Probably not the greatest machine to learn repairs on.

[cholmm]

I got it working! Thanks so much for your expertise! I didn't make the best decision on getting this machine. I knew I wanted a patcher/hand crank and this one was for sale on Kijiji. I am a Hand Therapist and definitely no expert in sewing leather or machine repair. So I am very grateful for the assistance! I did break the needle. I had gone to a sewing store and they gave me 332 needles which I saw in a post from Constabulary that the 332 long or 88 would work. The ones I got don't work they are too short. Can you tell me if they are the long?  From previous posts it sounds like needles are hard to find, the machine has 657 needle as the recommended. Any suggestions on where I can go to purchase some? Thanks

[shoepatcher]

Durkopp uses system #88 needles.  The System 332LG or #332LLLG which is the leather point will work.  You may not be able to get the #332lg needles in the needle hole because they have a shank size of 2.0mm. The #88 has a shank size of 1.90mm.  Both needle systems the same accept for the diameter of the shank or top of needle.  I have books on the #18 Durkopp class shoepatcher but one is in German.

The 18 class that you have has a stationary shuttle.  The 17 class has a rotary shuttle. both are good machines when operating.  Do not put that big spool of thread on top of the machine.  It will screw with your top tension.  

glenn

Edited March 20, 2022 by shoepatcher

[Constabulary]

You are welcome - so what did the trick finally?

332 is too short - 657 is the same as system 88 but with a different tip but that does not matter really.

332 LONG is as long as the 88 but has different shaft diameter but they may work if the hole in the needle bar is wide enough. As you figured - these ancient patchers can be challenging 

So the 2 options are System 88 or 332 LONG - I would go with 88. You can get them from Shoe System Plus

https://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Claes-Model-30-Needles-10-per-pack_p_353.html

[kgg]

2 hours ago, cholmm said:

I had gone to a sewing store and they gave me 332 needles

I don't know if this would work but another option which may work is if you move the clevis holding the needle bar at the top of the head like people do to convert their Chinese shoe patcher's to accept 135 x 16 needle system. They go from a shorter needle to a longer needle by moving the clevis up on the needle bar up about 5mm. In your case, you would want to move it down to accept a smaller, lengthwise, needle. A reference video on youtube to do this for the Chinese patcher.

kgg

 

[Constabulary]

You cannot adjust the needle bar height on Dürkopp patchers cause it has no "go through needle bar clamp"

Even if it had a "go through clamp" (some CLAES patchers had this) going from shorter to longer needle is easier but from longer to shorter is not always possible due to the given length of the needle bar - you know what I mean? 135x16 needles are shorter than System 88 needles.

Edited March 20, 2022 by Constabulary

[cholmm]

I think what worked was loosening the two large screws which let me change the bottom arm which restored the timing. It still wasn’t catching the bobbin but I think I was too rough putting it in and a small metal plate got bent a bit. I noticed in your video the bobbin dropped in easily. So I adjusted that. I also added a lot of oil.  One of the places where the thread goes through two small plates was tight. I noticed it went up and down with turning the handle but not much. After I oiled it, it went up more and loosened the plates. I think the thread was getting stuck there. It misses a stitch on occasion.  I am not sure how to adjust the cam for the thread lever or if that would help. On the front of the machine is a small screw but they are stuck and won’t adjust. I added some oil so maybe. Right now I don’t mind an occasional missed stitch. 

Thanks so much everyone for the help! I will get the thread changed to smaller and I am also going to buy a lot of needles at once!

Cindy