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Posted (edited)

Durkopp uses system #88 needles.  The System 332LG or #332LLLG which is the leather point will work.  You may not be able to get the #332lg needles in the needle hole because they have a shank size of 2.0mm. The #88 has a shank size of 1.90mm.  Both needle systems the same accept for the diameter of the shank or top of needle.  I have books on the #18 Durkopp class shoepatcher but one is in German.

The 18 class that you have has a stationary shuttle.  The 17 class has a rotary shuttle. both are good machines when operating.  Do not put that big spool of thread on top of the machine.  It will screw with your top tension.  

glenn

Edited by shoepatcher
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Posted

You are welcome :) - so what did the trick finally?

332 is too short - 657 is the same as system 88 but with a different tip but that does not matter really.

332 LONG is as long as the 88 but has different shaft diameter but they may work if the hole in the needle bar is wide enough. As you figured - these ancient patchers can be challenging  ;)

So the 2 options are System 88 or 332 LONG - I would go with 88. You can get them from Shoe System Plus

https://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Claes-Model-30-Needles-10-per-pack_p_353.html

IMG_2676.thumb.JPG.2dcd4809ed7eb2d8beed86c43cca86aa.JPG

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted
2 hours ago, cholmm said:

I had gone to a sewing store and they gave me 332 needles

I don't know if this would work but another option which may work is if you move the clevis holding the needle bar at the top of the head like people do to convert their Chinese shoe patcher's to accept 135 x 16 needle system. They go from a shorter needle to a longer needle by moving the clevis up on the needle bar up about 5mm. In your case, you would want to move it down to accept a smaller, lengthwise, needle. A reference video on youtube to do this for the Chinese patcher.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted (edited)

You cannot adjust the needle bar height on Dürkopp patchers cause it has no "go through needle bar clamp"

Even if it had a "go through clamp" (some CLAES patchers had this) going from shorter to longer needle is easier but from longer to shorter is not always possible due to the given length of the needle bar - you know what I mean? 135x16 needles are shorter than System 88 needles.

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

I think what worked was loosening the two large screws which let me change the bottom arm which restored the timing. It still wasn’t catching the bobbin but I think I was too rough putting it in and a small metal plate got bent a bit. I noticed in your video the bobbin dropped in easily. So I adjusted that. I also added a lot of oil.  One of the places where the thread goes through two small plates was tight. I noticed it went up and down with turning the handle but not much. After I oiled it, it went up more and loosened the plates. I think the thread was getting stuck there. It misses a stitch on occasion.  I am not sure how to adjust the cam for the thread lever or if that would help. On the front of the machine is a small screw but they are stuck and won’t adjust. I added some oil so maybe. Right now I don’t mind an occasional missed stitch. 

Thanks so much everyone for the help! I will get the thread changed to smaller and I am also going to buy a lot of needles at once!

Cindy 

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