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Posted (edited)

OK - As requested, here's some possibly better photos - At least they're against a plainer background. As you can see, everything is there, but some stuff broken . It's missing only one nut from the stand - One of the one's on the end of the treadle axle :~)     It's also missing the wooden drawer, but I think I can make one.

The wood pitman arm is interesting - I wonder why they chose that material.   It seems to work fine, and doesn't seem to have any wear, so I guess they knew what they were doing.

It'll be a little while before I can start in on it, but I will refresh the thread with updates, as they happen. Or at least some "After" photos.

I've restored a few machines before, so I'm pretty familiar with the drill, but this one is different, and a bit rough - We shall see what I can make of it.   And thanks again, for the encouragement !

adler 30 ft.jpg

adler 30 back.jpg

Edited by trash treasure

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

what I would NOT do it pulling out the top shaft and removing the inner cam and the cam on the front end if not really accessory. Better use a brush and some solvent like paint thinner or kerosene for cleaning these parts.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Constabulary said:

what I would NOT do it pulling out the top shaft and removing the inner cam and the cam on the front end if not really accessory. Better use a brush and some solvent like paint thinner or kerosene for cleaning these parts.

I totally agree - I don't like to disassemble more than is really necessary - No problem for me to mask and paint, with the main shaft, etc, still in place.  I have lots of brushes, solvent, and time to spend on it :~)

I can do decent work on sewing machines, if I take my time and go carefully - Here's a little one I cleaned up a couple years ago. It was a bit crusty, and didn't look, or work, as nice as it does now ( Nothing like as bad as this patcher, though) - It turned out pretty good :

Adler 20 sm.jpg

Edited by trash treasure

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

Nice Adler 20 !!! :)

Can you take some pictures of the underside meaning how you "sunk" the machine in the table or with other words the bracing the machine is sitting on.

I still have a Singer 7 kicking arround for a long time and its time to set it up and I would like to have it flat as yours.;)

 

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted
2 hours ago, Constabulary said:

Nice Adler 20 !!! :)

 

Coming from you, a high compliment, indeed - Thank you :~)

There was no rocket science involved in sinking the Adler - The photo shows the 3/16" (5mm) steel straps used. You would need to bend these with a powerful bending brake, or cut and weld them - These are welded.  Just compensate for the table thickness, and how high you want the bed to stick up above, and design accordingly . They are just hung from the table with carriage bolts & lag screws - Make sure to leave a cutout for the bobbin winder, belt, and front bed access. The machine just sits on them - You could just lift it out, if you were strong enough ;~)

The photo also shows my home-brewed speed reducer, which uses a modified fan belt idler pulley from a '78 Ford Mustang, to tension the belt from the backside. With a 750W servo motor, the machine has plenty of power !

adler 20 under.jpg

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

Alright - thanks for that. I always feared the machine would be to heavy for "just hanging" on the table plate. I was thinking of approx the same construction but going from left to right and hanging on the machine stand and not on the plate. If you don´t mind please post some more pictures :)

Nice solution for the speed reducer too! I will keep that in mind IF I ever find the time and patience and parts to set up the Singer 7.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Constabulary said:

what I would NOT do it pulling out the top shaft and removing the inner cam and the cam on the front end if not really accessory. Better use a brush and some solvent like paint thinner or kerosene for cleaning these parts.

correct C.  Never pull main shaft unless it is bent!  is that an Adler 20 or 120?

glenn

Edited by shoepatcher
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Posted

It's an Adler 20-19 - I'll post a couple more photos, after breakfast :~)

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

OK - Here's a close up photo of the speed reducer set up, which I guess is what you wanted to see. The Mustang idler is at the top - The long carriage bolt passes through the sliding part that has the idler pulley.  The head of the bolt bears against the back of the fixed part, and pushes the slider against the back side of the belt - Once it's adjusted,  I lock it down with the 2 nuts. The whole thing, including the reducer pulleys, is fastened to the rear cradle that hold the machine in the table. The Idler set up had to be modified a bit to work like this, but it performs flawlessly, and solves the belt tension problems with homemade speed reducers.

1611993542_adler20drive.thumb.jpg.02be41a92a71478dabdb52d3791bdf60.jpg

 

Here's a photo of the Adler as found - It was nowhere near in as bad a shape as the 30-1 patcher I just acquired, but it was non-working, and I had to do a couple repairs and replacements to get it there.  The seller had never gotten it to sew, and told me that he bought it from "some old guy" that used it to sew buffalo skin rugs together - It WAS clogged up with woolly brown fur, so I guess maybe that was true

2108252020_Adler20before.thumb.jpg.c6683e8386564402e9eaee0919c36848.jpg

 

Here's the last shot, of the whole machine - I sort of re-engineered the table for it, shortening it, and making a new top. I'd seen photos of Adlers used by the German military, and loosely followed that idea, with a cabinet under it. I picked up a nice iron treadle, and fabricated a new lower crossbar, to replace the bent up originals. The table is on casters, as it lives in one end of our kitchen, when we're not using it - It rolls into the shop, through the doorway behind it.

   My wife said it had to look nice, if it was going to live in the kitchen. And so maybe I "over-restored" it a bit, even to the extent of polishing the handwheel rim - After I polished it, I rubbed it with this anti-corrosive sculptor's wax, and surprisingly, it's stayed rust-free for a couple years now.

630392636_adler20withstand.thumb.jpg.02e95b952cce0a83ece382f36220177c.jpg

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

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Posted

Nice 20!!  your 30-1 Adler looks like everything is there including the tension device for the bobbin winder.  Good luck rebuilding it.  Let me know if I can help. We want to see pics as you progress.

glenn

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