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"Phoenix Clutch Purse"

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Here is a "Phoenix Clutch Purse" kit that I just finished last night. I am going to donate this to our local Pheasants Forever banquet for the auction.

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Gampas,

Beautifully done.Everything looks great! Lacing, color,tooling...

Someone will be very happy with this purse.

Keep up the good work,& keep posting.....

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Very nice looking purse Gampa, and a very noble gesture as well.

Ken

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Been going to this local Banquet for 7 years now and have walked out the door with 3 guns. Kinda feel like I can help them out a little bit. Am thinking maybe doing this I can pick up an order or 2 and get a little pocket jingle.

I also do woodworking and I usually donate something to the Volunteer Firemans gathering in Pitkin, CO for their fundraiser. Last year they were able to upgrade from a 1956 truck to a 90's model.

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Cool piece of work John. How did you finish that? I like the soft, matt look!

later,

~Bill

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I will have to look tonight when I get home. Was some old (from late 70's) Tandy stain (I think it was Antique Tan) and then finished with the Tandy Sheen.

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It's beautiful! I'm jealous .....

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I thought maybe antique. Did you use a resist first?

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Ok, I looked last night and I was guessing right. It was Tandy Antique Stain in Tan color. No resist was used.

Now a question, I have this sitting on my desk here at the lumberyard where I work and all the contractors are asking if I used wood stain on it. Is this possible? I had never even considered it before but, you are doing the same thing on a similar product. What do you long timers say, is it possible to use wood stain on leather???

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I read a post the other day describing the use of wood stain to make dyes. I suspect that the liquid antique stains by TLF are probably wood stain from the odor. I've used Walnut and Mahogany wood stain, but put a resist down before I applied it and got results similar to what you've done here, except it dries a lot quicker than paste so I tend to use paste. I'll look for that post on dye making and bring it over here if I can find it. I don't think it was on this forum. Wood stain is certainly worth experimenting with, but this guy was recommending it as more cost effective.

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I may have to play around with it. I do woodworking also and have several partial quarts of stain in my shop. One thing with the woodstain is that most are not that far apart in color vs the leather stains that I see in the Tandy Catalog now. The difference in Dark Brown and Med. Brown is very drastic.

Ok, so what is and what does the "Resist" do?

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It applying one of those finishes like Tan-Kote, Bag-Kote, Resolene before the antique so that you have more time to work with the antique before it sets up. Try to keep as much resist out of the depressions as possible so that the antique penetrates them better and quicker. I usually apply two coats of resist and let it dry at least 2 hours, over night is better. Gob the antique on heavy and don't work it too much or it'll desolve the resist if it's a water soluble. I'm applying the antique paste with shearling and whiping it off with a damp paper towel. I think George Hurst told me that one. The paper towel has a bit of rigidity to it, unlikely shearling it floats over the depression so to speak and doesn't drag the antique out. All that said you probably should stay with whatever you're doing. It looks real good to me.

Thanks for your reply. Looking forward to seeing more of your work. Especially if you finish it with antique like this one. ......... later........

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