Edsbear Report post Posted June 20, 2022 Hi, I have a problem with top stitching leather around corners where by the leather seems to have a slight tare so the leather shows through the colour, I think its the needle point shape causing it but not sure. I was wondering if anyone could advise on a better needle shape to use. I am currently using Schmetz 37:20AX1 nm:130 Size 21. 135x16RTW. DPx16 LR Many thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted June 20, 2022 1 hour ago, Edsbear said: Hi, I have a problem with top stitching leather around corners where by the leather seems to have a slight tare so the leather shows through the colour, I think its the needle point shape causing it but not sure. I was wondering if anyone could advise on a better needle shape to use. I am currently using Schmetz 37:20AX1 nm:130 Size 21. 135x16RTW. DPx16 LR Many thanks Try the S point needle which is only available in system 134-35 which is 1 mm shorter & may require lowering the needlebar slightly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 20, 2022 I know this is counterintuitive, but there are times when a round point needle produces a cleaner corner appearance than a typical leather point. You could do an experiment in scrap leather using a 135x17 needle. I would also try a Diamond or Triangle point needle. The appearance is close to a round point, but produces a three or four sided hole. The thread will visibly sit on top using either of these needle types, as opposed to an S point which looks submerged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edsbear Report post Posted June 21, 2022 (edited) Thank you, I will try both. I am also getting a rogue stitch on the inside corner and not sure why. I have attached a couple of pictures, the seam stitch showing the leather underneath the colour and the rogue inside corner stitch Any help is much appreciated. Many thanks Edited June 21, 2022 by Edsbear Picture added Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted June 21, 2022 22 hours ago, Edsbear said: I am currently using Schmetz 37:20AX1 nm:130 Size 21. 135x16RTW. DPx16 LR What size of thread are you using? A good needle to thread chart would be https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If you are using V138 thread you may have to move up to a size 22 or 23 depending on the thickness to give enough room for the thread not to be caught by the side of the needle hole when turning in the corner. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edsbear Report post Posted June 21, 2022 The ticket number is 25 Tex number 120 not sure about the V number. Thanks for the link Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kgg Report post Posted June 21, 2022 53 minutes ago, Edsbear said: not sure about the V number. Would be equal to about V130 so it is slightly smaller / weaker then V138 so I would move your needle size up to a #22 and see if that helps on a test piece. It may also be how you are making the turn that is causing the rogue stitch. kgg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 21, 2022 You might need piping to tighten up the seams and hide the thread and holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) 16 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: You might need piping to tighten up the seams and hide the thread and holes. some piping samples https://www.leder-info.de/index.php/Keder on soft leather it usually is not a problem when using round point needles except you want a certain look for your visible seams. Check this (download link for PDF) https://www.groz-beckert.com/mm/media/en/web/pdf/Point_styles_for_leather_processing.pdf Edited June 22, 2022 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 22, 2022 23 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: You might need piping to tighten up the seams and hide the thread and holes. Here is a search page showing results for sewing piping onto leather seat cushions. There are photos and YouTube videos showing how this is done. Piping can be made or purchased. It does usually require a special presser foot set that rides on top of the piped material and positions the needle on the right edge of the pipe or welt. These piping feet are sold online in various diameters, from 1/8" up to 5/8". The most common size in seat upholstery is either 3/16" or 1/4". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edsbear Report post Posted June 22, 2022 Piping has not been requested. I will check out the needle options you all mention and report back. I see that a standard point needle is also ok for leather as long as its a bigger size Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edsbear Report post Posted June 23, 2022 Hi all, I changed the needle to a tri point and the stitch holes have improved. I think the rogue stitch was because I was lifting the needle at the corner to get into the right spot. Many thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 23, 2022 3 hours ago, Edsbear said: Hi all, I changed the needle to a tri point and the stitch holes have improved. I think the rogue stitch was because I was lifting the needle at the corner to get into the right spot. Many thanks My pleasure! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
