making my own Stamps

[JohnD]

How has this thread been around for over a month and I just found it today???

This is a great topic, I have been wanting to try making some tools since I started working with leather.

The pictures of tools you guys have made look amazing. It seems to me that the stamping end is made from the bolt head?

I know that the SS bolts can cost as much as a new crafttool stamp but I think that making your own tools can be just as enjoyable as leather carving.

I will be trying my hand at this very soon, Thank you for starting a great thread with some great information and some much needed inspiration.

Jordon,

I have almost the exact lathe in my basement right now, just needs a belt.

John

[Duke]

if could be so nice as to break this up into steps, and if we ar so lucky as for you to provide pics, I think it would help a bunch of people.I myself am also a visual learner and try to be very methodical when I do stuff. if things were broken down into easy to follow steps, it would help to get alot more people on thier way to at least modifying thier tools.dont let my boss hear this , but I would like to buy some of the crappy 5th or 6th generation tools that we sell from craftool and clean them up a bit so that they would work decently.if you had the time and resources, you could even write a small phamplet on how to modify or make your own tools.im sure quite a few people would be more than willing to spend some money purchasing it.

[candyleather]

A very easy tutorial with pics for beginners in this link

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44932

[robert]

I am happy to write up something on how i make my tools... i have pretty simple equipment (bench grinder, dremel, files), but no lathe, and I still experiment with different ways to do things, so no two tools are alike. Mine are not as nice as ghostryder's, so hopefully he and others can write up something as well. Mine are improving, but anything i say or write is intended to get you started, and hopefully you can take it and improve on it. If several people write something, we will all learn more...

John D - I buy SS bolts for about $2 each or less so they are cheaper than new craftools. Some of the tools are made from the head of the bolt, but if the tool head is smaller than the diamater of the bolt, i just saw the head off (a small beveler for example).

Duke, the world of leathercraft would not be where it is without the mass produced tools by Tandy. If people are happy with their hobby, the retail stores will get their share of the business. So encouraging crafters to make their own tools, modify mass production tools, etc will ultimately benefit the craft, which benefits everyone in the business.

[candyleather]

These pics are from this link. The author or the owner of the pics is www.denismura.com

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44932

Edited December 8, 2007 by candyleather

[candyleather]

[robert]

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Making your own tools

12-8-07

Tools I used for this project

Bench grinder

Mill file

Coarse emery cloth

Medium emery cloth

600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Rag wheel on bench grinder, with Ryobi stainless polishing compound

Rag wheel on hand held drill with white rouge

Brownells checkering file – 75 Lines per inch

Hacksaw (to cut the threads off)

Magnifying glasses

I work on tools away from my leather bench… you don't want metal filings on your bench or on your leather.

For this project, I am going to make a Sheridan style thumbprint. Pear shaders and Thumbprints are easiest to make because they relatively easy, and I, for one, like to have a variety – different sizes, long lined, cross lined, cross hatched, etc., and if they are slightly different shapes, so much the better. Thumbprints have a flatter bottom and are not generally walked like a pearshader, so this particular tool is pretty flat, but make it any way that suits you. Also, many thumbprints don't taper to a point on the end, and are used essentially as two different tools – each end is a different size and can be used as needed. However, I like having a more tapered end that will fit into the end of my "stickers" or "vines", whatever you call them.

Leaf liners and center liners are easy too – they look flat on the face but have a slight curvature.

Bevelers have to be shaped right or they leave tracks, and you want you different size bevellers to have the same angle, so they are a little tougher, but not too bad.

For the thumbprint in this project, the general process I followed is:

1. I use stainless steel bolts, at least 5.5 inches long (I have started using 6"). I typically use 3 sizes – ¼, 5/16, and 3/8. The smaller ones are less than $2 each, and the larger are just over $2. You can use regular bolts or nails or anything, just check for corrosion before you use it – just stamp it on some scrap. I used regular zinc covered bolts for a while, and they work just fine – I have several that are part of my regularly used tools.

2. Leave the bolt threads on – you can use that to clamp in your vise while you work, then saw them off. I like tools with a final length of either 4.25" or 4.5" long.

3. Draw the rough shape of your tool on the bolt head with a Sharpie. This gives you a rough idea of how much metal to remove on a grinder before you get to the more detailed work.

4. Use a grinder to rough out the outside shape – I do this very rough. I don't try to do any curvature with a grinder (for example, I don't do the bottom of a shader with the grinder). Picture 1 is the tool and the impression when I finish with the grinder. Note it is very rough, and large. The grinder is just for bulk metal removal… but it takes too much off too fast to be used for detail work.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4390.jpg

5. Once you have the rough shape, use a mill file to give you tool shape. I find it easiest to have a finished tool to compare to as I go. Many tools have subtle curves that you don't really notice until you try to make your own. Stamp your new tool into test leather often to make sure you are getting the shape you want. Note the second impression – it is a little smaller, and has a little more shape. This is about the point I stop using the file and go to emory cloth.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4394.jpg

6. Continue to refine the shape. Once you are happy with the rough shape, use coarse emory cloth to put the final shape to it. Impression #3 is about the point at which I stopped using the coarse emory cloth. The scrap in the picture is to give you an idea of how often I am testing the stamp as I go.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4395.jpg

7. Continue to refine the shape - use medium emory cloth then 600 grit to work out the grinder and file marks. Impression #4 is taken while I was using the medium emory cloth. See how much smaller the stamp is getting? Don't take too much off with the grinder… it is easy to make a tool smaller, but you can't make it larger!

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4396.jpg

8. At this point, I will clean up the tool and take it to my bench and do some testing with it. Typically, that leads me back to step 6 with the coarse emory cloth. Repeat as many times as necessary (hey, nobody said this was simple J). Impression #5 is taken while I was working with the 600 grit paper in the testing stage. See on the face of the tool – you can see very fine marks that I haven't worked out yet – I will work those out too.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4398.jpg

9. Once you like the shape, use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put a nice polish on it. Then I put the smooth tool to use and make sure it walks if it is a walking tool, and just generally make sure it is going to work.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4399.jpg

6. Then polish with a rag wheel on a bench grinder (I use rouge for stainless first, followed by a different wheel with white rouge on it). Then it is time for the lining tool. On this tool, I am using a 75 LPI file from Brownells (www.brownells.com). I try to get one end of the tool face, then line it up and get the other end of the tool face. I use magnifying glasses to get the lines lined up after I have run the file across the face once. It is tough to line them up, and takes practice. Don't be afraid to file off the lines and start again. The good news is that, even it isn't perfect, nobody will notice on your leather! I studied one of my good tools from a custom maker under a magnifying glass, and the lines aren't perfect, but you can't tell that in the stamp impression.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4400.jpg

7. Then back to the scrap, to test some more now that the lining is done.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4402.jpg

8. Once you are happy with it, take a fine brush and some household cleaner (even a tooth brush) and clean out any filings, and clean up the metal dust. Then cut the tool to the right length with a hacksaw and clean up the rough end. Do some final polishing, then you have your finished tool!

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4403.jpg

9. Here are a few tools I have made. There are a couple of leaf liners, a small and a medium thumbprint, a set of fine bevelers (75 LPI) and a set of coarser bevelers (50 LPI), and a veiner.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4404.jpg

I will probably put these tools on E-bay over time, so if anybody wants any of them, let me know.

Hope this is helpful. Have fun… jump in and start filing – that's the best way to learn.

Edited December 9, 2007 by robert

[JohnD]

Robert, excellent. Thanks for taking the time.

John

[CitizenKate]

Great post, Robert! I had just picked up some steel bolts to play with and was doing some experimenting with my dremel tool, and your tutorial answered a bunch of questions that were collecting in my brain as I played. I've really got the bug to make some of my own stamps now (as if I have nothing else to do - ha!).

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that up and snap some WIP photos.

Kate

[JohnD]

I spent a little time today to make a pear shader, I'm happy with the finished product, as it seems to work very well. The only problem is that it leaves a black stain as I shade. I made it out of mild steel that I had sitting around. Is this the reason for the staining, or perhaps my leather was too wet? I had made a lifter out of an old screwdriver before that did the same thing, but not all the time.

The pear shader was only for practice and I plan to try again when I pick up some stainless bolts, but if I do use mild steel again, will zinc plating prevent the staining?

John