llasso Report post Posted November 8, 2007 I have a glue pot that I keep leather weld in and once in a while I clean it, but to do not do a very good job any one have any ideals of the best way to do it? I soak it in hot water and use a tool to scrap out the debree inside the pot but that still does not do a very good job...... Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted November 8, 2007 (edited) LLASSO... LOTS OF ELBO GREASE WITH THE WAY YOU ARE DOING. I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH BARGE CEMENT, BUT WHEN I WANT TO KEEP IT CLEAN I DO COAT THE OUTSIDE WITH PAINTERS TAPE, SOMETIMES I HAVE COATED THE GLUE POT WITH VASELINE. Edited November 8, 2007 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted November 8, 2007 just get a can of solvent and keep the glue from hardening in the first place. I have master cement in a jar with a brush and haven't had any more problems since doing that. If it's old and stuck swish with the thinner. Don't use hot water. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Report post Posted November 8, 2007 just get a can of solvent and keep the glue from hardening in the first place. I have master cement in a jar with a brush and haven't had any more problems since doing that.If it's old and stuck swish with the thinner. Don't use hot water. pete Do they really make a thinner for Leather Weld? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted November 8, 2007 Check with a Tandy store to see if the thinner that wours for Master and Barge works for it too. It should. Do you REALLY like leather weld over master or Barge???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 8, 2007 Hi Pete, If it is something I am going to sew, I use Tanners Bond from Fiebing, however everything else is Barge GP. I use the large cans with the brush in the top and keep the brush lid on the can of thinner and the no brush lid on the can of Barge. I fill the cans out of the gallon cans to just where it covers the brush. I don't think I have ever had a can of Barge I didn't have to thin even when new. The thinner keeps the brush in good shape and carries enough over into the Barge to keep it thin. I don't use a glue pot for the tanners bond, I use a squirt bottle with a snap off lid. Art Check with a Tandy store to see if the thinner that wours for Master and Barge works for it too. It should.Do you REALLY like leather weld over master or Barge???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
llasso Report post Posted November 8, 2007 Did you ever read what is in barge cement, if you do for your own health yjou may not want to use it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted November 9, 2007 I have had the same issue.... Leather weld is water soluble.... or so I believe.... it gets too thick from sitting and I will add a little watter, use the brush to move it around and mix it and it is good to go... I have wondered too about cleaning out the put... the Tandy catalog says it is coated in Teflon for easy clean up.... not so easy since you cannot get into the thing to clean it.... I have considered getting a large bottle of elmers glue and emptying it out and putting the leather weld into it... It seems it would be a much easier way to apply it then the brush.... if anyone knows of an easy way to clean the pot... please tell us... Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted November 9, 2007 quick question, is leather weld just plain old white glue repackaged and price hiked? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolvenstien Report post Posted November 9, 2007 I think it is, but more of an industrial grade..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craftsman827 Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Best way with solvent & elbow grease!!! Also I've found buying from a shoe maker supply,VERY $$$ saving. You can buy by the gallon,the glue & solvent. I use vasoline, as Luke said,works well. As it gets older, use the solvent! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Hi Larry, A solvent for Tanners Bond would be one of the Glycol Ethers like Butyl Cellosolve or Carbitol DE which may be applied on the dried glue sparingly, let soak in for at least half an hour, and then wipe the softened glue with a steel wool dauber. Once the glue is removed, the area should be rinsed with water and dried off with a clean cloth. Glycol Ether must be handled carefully. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. The person working with it, should read an MSDS first. Butyl Cellosolve can be purchased for about $10 a quart and that quart should get you through forever. http://www.chemistrystore.com/butylcellosolve.htm Art I have a glue pot that I keep leather weld in and once in a while I clean it, but to do not do a very good jobany one have any ideals of the best way to do it? I soak it in hot water and use a tool to scrap out the debree inside the pot but that still does not do a very good job...... Larry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
llasso Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Thaks for all of your input, it really is ashame that the manufacture of this product does not have the awnser to this question. I ask and really did not get a reply that we did not already cover......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaverslayer Report post Posted November 9, 2007 Home Depot sells a product called "Goo be Gone" this is amazing stuff and it takes pretty much anything glued or gluey off of anything. And it even smells nice, and it's not toxic like most chemicals. Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
randyandclaudia Report post Posted December 19, 2007 I have 6 glue pots in desperate need of cleaning. Thanks for the suggestions. I have many different types of glues that I use, but I wanted to pass along the information on some incredible glue that I have recently been turned on to. We've all probably fried our brains already on the toxic rubber cement fumes. I know I have. It reacts like rubber cement except it is a synthetic latex. You can even let it dry and reactivate it with heat. Excellent Glue! I don't use it for everything . . . it definitely saves the brain. You can get it from UPACO Adhesives Division Worthen Industries, Inc. out of Nashua NH. The product name is Synthetic Latex and the number is 1812. I was sent a sample and have quickly found the need for more. The biggest issue for folks is they have a $400.00 minimum order. That's a lot of glue. The good thing is it won't go bad. Hope everyone is having a great day. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
randyandclaudia Report post Posted December 19, 2007 here's the phone number for UPACO - Non-Toxic Synthetic Latex Glue #1812 - 603-888-5443 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted December 19, 2007 Thanks Randy. Was just getting ready to ask. Here's the web address to the leather (footwear) section Glue Site Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites